Atacama Yellow 35is build thread

[B21]

BMWZ4MC and enuff_zed

If you use the crowfoot attachment so it’s at 90 degrees to the torque wrench rather than inline then there is negligible alteration to the applied torque ..if you prefer to use it inline then it’s a simple calculation to adjust it..


https://youtu.be/-hSmtLVESSM?si=GT3KiSnZEi01IMyk

 

[enuff_zed]

BMWZ4MC and enuff_zed

If you use the crowfoot attachment so it’s at 90 degrees to the torque wrench rather than inline then there is negligible alteration to the applied torque ..if you prefer to use it inline then it’s a simple calculation to adjust it..


https://youtu.be/-hSmtLVESSM?si=GT3KiSnZEi01IMyk

Exactly.
At 90 degrees I believe old Pythagoras and his 'sum of the hippopotamus' comes in to play.
However, with your background Peter, I am sure you are aware that the chances of your torque wrench being accurate enough to matter are fairly low.
Even with 3 monthly calibration regimes, we always had to set the torque wrenches using the test rig in the stores before we went to the aircraft, and ensure we fully unwound the spring when we had finished.

 

[BMWZ4MC]

I wasn’t concerned about the calculation for correcting the torque at any angle from 0 to 90 deg. Rather, I don’t understand how a lever can exert a rotational force on a nut when the centre of rotation of the applied moment is offset from centre of rotation of the desired effect. I’m sure I’ve missed something since these are commonly used tools!

Besides, my torque wrench came from Aldi (although I do use somewhat more expensive torque wrenches at work)

 

[enuff_zed]

Rather, I don’t understand how a lever can exert a rotational force on a nut when the centre of rotation of the applied moment is offset from centre of rotation of the desired effect. I’m sure I’ve missed something since these are commonly used tools!

That's the same as using one of those curved spanners for restricted access.
In fact, even something as simple as Stilson wrench has the jaws offset from the handle.

Once the two parts are connected together they basically become one solid tool. The force is transmitted ok, but the leverage is changed, affecting the relationship between the force you apply and the force the nut receives.

 

[BMWZ4MC]

That’s true, thanks. I’ve not seen these before, but I’m sure it’s pretty intuitive as soon as you use it.
I suppose it wouldn’t work too well when trying to use a torque wrench with a ratchet handle since that would give a rigid couple at a fixed angle (and so known torque correction) in the “locked” direction, but then that angular relationship would change as soon as the ratchet handle is turned in the “free” direction, necessitating recalculating the torque correction.

 

[B21]

BMWZ4MC and enuff_zed

If you use the crowfoot attachment so it’s at 90 degrees to the torque wrench rather than inline then there is negligible alteration to the applied torque ..if you prefer to use it inline then it’s a simple calculation to adjust it..


https://youtu.be/-hSmtLVESSM?si=GT3KiSnZEi01IMyk

Exactly.
At 90 degrees I believe old Pythagoras and his 'sum of the hippopotamus' comes in to play.
However, with your background Peter, I am sure you are aware that the chances of your torque wrench being accurate enough to matter are fairly low.
Even with 3 monthly calibration regimes, we always had to set the torque wrenches using the test rig in the stores before we went to the aircraft, and ensure we fully unwound the spring when we had finished.

The way I looked at it it was better than guess I’m with an open jawed spanner…

What did horrify me was the effect of anti seize on the amount of torque transmitted to the nut/bolt…im waiting for some past tightening using that to snap.. :tumbleweed: :headbang: :rofl:

 

[B21]

That’s true, thanks. I’ve not seen these before, but I’m sure it’s pretty intuitive as soon as you use it.
I suppose it wouldn’t work too well when trying to use a torque wrench with a ratchet handle since that would give a rigid couple at a fixed angle (and so known torque correction) in the “locked” direction, but then that angular relationship would change as soon as the ratchet handle is turned in the “free” direction, necessitating recalculating the torque correction.

I didn’t realise the Lidl torque wrench was so sophisticated? :tumbleweed: :rofl:

 

[BMWZ4MC]

That’s true, thanks. I’ve not seen these before, but I’m sure it’s pretty intuitive as soon as you use it.
I suppose it wouldn’t work too well when trying to use a torque wrench with a ratchet handle since that would give a rigid couple at a fixed angle (and so known torque correction) in the “locked” direction, but then that angular relationship would change as soon as the ratchet handle is turned in the “free” direction, necessitating recalculating the torque correction.

I didn’t realise the Lidl torque wrench was so sophisticated? :tumbleweed: :rofl:

Aldi, please, I wouldn’t ever admit to buying tools in Lidl

 

[BMWZ4MC]

What did horrify me was the effect of anti seize on the amount of torque transmitted to the nut/bolt…im waiting for some past tightening using that to snap.. :tumbleweed: :headbang: :rofl:

I experience terrible dissonance about the use of anti-seize, especially when it comes to wheel bolts…

 

[B21]

That’s true, thanks. I’ve not seen these before, but I’m sure it’s pretty intuitive as soon as you use it.
I suppose it wouldn’t work too well when trying to use a torque wrench with a ratchet handle since that would give a rigid couple at a fixed angle (and so known torque correction) in the “locked” direction, but then that angular relationship would change as soon as the ratchet handle is turned in the “free” direction, necessitating recalculating the torque correction.

I didn’t realise the Lidl torque wrench was so sophisticated? :tumbleweed: :rofl:

Aldi, please, I wouldn’t ever admit to buying tools in Lidl

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

 

[B21]

What did horrify me was the effect of anti seize on the amount of torque transmitted to the nut/bolt…im waiting for some past tightening using that to snap.. :tumbleweed: :headbang: :rofl:

I experience terrible dissonance about the use of anti-seize, especially when it comes to wheel bolts…

It’s my spark plugs I’m worried about :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:

 

[B21]

Treated myself to a couple of new colour themes (yellow of course) for my ID4Motion instrument cluster. Black Friday sale.. https://id4motion.shop/collections/all

Having lived with it for a year and played with all the various settings and done about 10k miles in it there were a few tweaks I wanted.

In the sun with the roof down some of the colours would wash out more easily..

Also, since the cluster can use different themes for different modes (normal, sport, night) I needed to tweak the layouts and colour for each option.

Sadly for my night mode I couldn't find a nice 'yellow' option so playing with a cool blue (the digital data colour options are limited and blue on blue looks cool without being in your face)..

For 'normal' and DCT box lever across to 'Sport' I chose their Apex Thrill Night in their Yellow..

For 'sport' button it flips into their Orbit Drift again in their house yellow.

I set the 'sport' mode to have extra data like coolant temp, battery volts and boost pressure..interesting to see how the voltage on an E89 goes up and down like a yoyo and how little boost I need to progress quickly!-


Here's me playing with the various screens with the engine running to see the beautiful animations..

https://youtu.be/QEAdCmWtKPw?si=j2XsBlr_DDPj8uKP

Boys toys..

 

[Christopher72]

What's the difference between their tiers for the unit.. starter, standard, premium.

And do you chose the virginizing service that they also sell for this.. so you can relive the first time over and over?
https://id4motion.shop/collections/bmw/products/digital-cluster-virginize-service
:rofl:

 

[B21]

What's the difference between their tiers for the unit.. starter, standard, premium.

And do you chose the virginizing service that they also sell for this.. so you can relive the first time over and over?
https://id4motion.shop/collections/bmw/products/digital-cluster-virginize-service
:rofl:

Marketing packaging ..different number of ‘themes’ bundled and the starter doesn’t support some things like battery voltage, BHP/torque and shift indicator…in their world a different colour of the same style is a theme at 35 euros a pop..

Never was a fan of virgins ..but that’s a different story.. :tumbleweed:

 

[B21]

So most of the parts arrived for the ‘small’ BBK for the rear..

F10 series calipers and E60 series disks…these rears are bigger than my current 6 pot Brembo front disks..

The F10 series caliper just looks like an upscaled copy of the E89 version.

Done a first paper mock up of a possible bracket to join these to the E89 chassis.

Not only is the disk much bigger 345 vs 300 or 324 for non 35is / 35is but the depth of the swept area is bigger..pic shows an E89 rear pad (same pad on both 300mm and 324mm rear discs) vs the E60 pad..

Autodoc do a cute trick with TRW ..they sell a ‘remanufactured’ real caliper for about a 1/5 of the price of an E89 caliper..

One caliper bracket wasn’t available in TRW OE supplier so bought a pattern part..interesting to see the myriad of differences…hopefully it will work ok..

 

[mike07s]

I’m extremely interested to see how you get on with this. I figured from the fmorelli thread that F series might be the way to go to avoid the brake disc hat depth issue he had. Great work

 

[B21]

I’m extremely interested to see how you get on with this. I figured from the fmorelli thread that F series might be the way to go to avoid the brake disc hat depth issue he had. Great work

Yup here’s hoping…think I’m on my way to sort the adapter bracket out..

 

[mike07s]

I’m extremely interested to see how you get on with this. I figured from the fmorelli thread that F series might be the way to go to avoid the brake disc hat depth issue he had. Great work

Yup here’s hoping…think I’m on my way to sort the adapter bracket out..

Once you solve that you may have single handedly solved the E89 rear brake upgrade conundrum.

 

[B21]

I've spent some time looking at options above a 345 mm rear disc..

It is feasable (now I'vve climbed a learning curve) to look at other BMW rear calipers with EPB ..

So above 345mm you can go to 370 or 380 or just under 400 with the M5 and M8 rear calipers..

But...

Given the normal front rear bias, what would a similar size rear to front do?

I can see on a M5 fully loaded with pax and luggage why a much bigger rear brake is useful..

With a relatively light E89 not sure.

The other issue is that the price jump on a solution goes from around £500 to over £1,500 assuming using some used parts and over £2k with new parts.

I tried to see if you could use the smaller 5 series caliper with the bigger rear discs but the rear pad does not fully sweep the disc..so that's a no go..

So I'll carry on only withy the 345mm disc upgrade with normal 5 series calipers..

 

[mike07s]

I've spent some time looking at options above a 345 mm rear disc..

It is feasable (now I'vve climbed a learning curve) to look at other BMW rear calipers with EPB ..

So above 345mm you can go to 370 or 380 or just under 400 with the M5 and M8 rear calipers..

But...

Given the normal front rear bias, what would a similar size rear to front do?

I can see on a M5 fully loaded with pax and luggage why a much bigger rear brake is useful..

With a relatively light E89 not sure.

The other issue is that the price jump on a solution goes from around £500 to over £1,500 assuming using some used parts and over £2k with new parts.

I tried to see if you could use the smaller 5 series caliper with the bigger rear discs but the rear pad does not fully sweep the disc..so that's a no go..

So I'll carry on only withy the 345mm disc upgrade with normal 5 series calipers..

Some quick maths shows the following F/R ratios;

Front Ratio Rear
348 1.07:1 324
370 1.14:1 324
380 1.17:1 324
370 1.07:1 345
380 1.10:1 345
380 1.03:1 370

My take from the above is 370/345 maintains the OEM ratio while 380/345 provides slightly higher front bias. I'm no expert but I don't see it being a huge issue with a 3% increase. It's still a better ratio than I currently have with 370/324. I suppose the important question is at what stage does upgrading the brake master cylinder have to be considered? No doubt some smarter/more experienced minds can weigh in on this.

All of this aside a rear brake upgrade solution at the £500 price point would be excellent. I put together the front brake upgrade for <£600 (370/380 calipers including rotors with EBC Yellowstuff pads) which I thought was a bargain for the braking improvement.