Same style wheels as I have on mine but mine are a different makeB21 said:Thanks for all the comments on the wheels..the satin finish I’m struggling with, maybe a gunmetal black would lift it.
I’ll put the Veeman’s on hold
Atacama Yellow 35is build thread
- Thread starter B21
- Start date
Scottish Borders
Jollyjoiner said:Same style wheels as I have on mine but mine are a different makeB21 said:Thanks for all the comments on the wheels..the satin finish I’m struggling with, maybe a gunmetal black would lift it.
I’ll put the Veeman’s on hold
20200313_082538.jpg
Just can’t resist a nice 7/8 Y Spoke design ..
Mr Tidy said:ronk said:
That struck a chord! According to Ford both my 2.8 Injection Capris had 160bhp!
The 100bhp per litre really was a holy grail and there have never been too many naturally aspirated engines producing that. But as soon as you include forced induction the sky's the limit - fortunately for B21. :lol:
Capris were my mates car of choice back in the day,but didn't handle well in the wet,the old concrete slab in the boot helped a bit, lol.
I was a Vauxhall man though.
As for the 100bhp per litre,the 2006 z4m had 338bhp/343ps.
Ditto the E46 M3 before it,and z3m.
Yeah,b21 is on some serious power trip.
Reminds me of rich kids being bought supercars,who have s**t loads of power,but can't handle it,or know how to get the best out of a car
That's why some good friends I know well on here,can be all over the back of Z4m_s(of others, not mine, before the jokes arrive on that one,lol), and 3 0 e85/6/e89,s or even m40i's....
In a 2.0 diesel Alfa or 3 series estate/tourer,lol
craig3.2 said:
So the latest toy to arrive is a Mosselman oil thermostat.
Should bling the engine bay and is alledged to reduce oil temperatures and hence general engine bay temperatures down.
With more ponies being developed tehn good idea to uprate the quality of the oil system, IMHO.
So I'll move to a 5k miles filter /oil change with an ester based emgine oil.
All that heat isn't any good for all those plastics in the engine bay..
Will fit it when we do the big turbos /major service in January..
Details here.. https://www.mosselmanturbo.com/en/oil-thermostat
Should bling the engine bay and is alledged to reduce oil temperatures and hence general engine bay temperatures down.
With more ponies being developed tehn good idea to uprate the quality of the oil system, IMHO.
So I'll move to a 5k miles filter /oil change with an ester based emgine oil.
All that heat isn't any good for all those plastics in the engine bay..
Will fit it when we do the big turbos /major service in January..
Details here.. https://www.mosselmanturbo.com/en/oil-thermostat
Attachments
Thats a nice bit of kit, if its capable of achieving that 20c reduction in temps that's a fantastic (and welcome) improvement
Especially if bigger snails are on the cards!
Especially if bigger snails are on the cards!
Flyingfifer said:Thats a nice bit of kit, if its capable of achieving that 20c reduction in temps that's a fantastic (and welcome) improvement
Especially if bigger snails are on the cards!
Looks cute, hope it works, given that the N20s run lovely and cool I'd prefer the N54 to be less of a primus stove on hot days or driven hard (by my very limited skills that are exceeded by my bank balance).
The duty cycle of serious heat production will be quite limited as (again with my very limited capabilities) I won't be able to extend the 420 bhp going on 500 bhp+ very often.
B21 said:
How does this work?
It opens up the oil flow to the oil cooler earlier?
Why doesn't the oil temperature reach the same point?
Does look cool though..pun!
I do hope, with all those bits, you can keep ahead of the average 1.2 Kia
The write ups from several forums where N54s lurk are all very positive and cite a consistent 20 degree temperature drop (not sure whether that is F or C?).
Anyway spending the kids inheritance..
I used to have a 1.3 Kia Pride, my mother's after she gave up driving, (just lost our last company car, Audi A4 Quattro) overtook a Porkster one day in it..god he was pissed!
Here's a pic of it in someone else's car..looks neat!
Anyway spending the kids inheritance..
I used to have a 1.3 Kia Pride, my mother's after she gave up driving, (just lost our last company car, Audi A4 Quattro) overtook a Porkster one day in it..god he was pissed!
Here's a pic of it in someone else's car..looks neat!
Attachments
I don't think that thermostat does anything to reduce oil temps when you are at operating temp and pushing the car, it just removes the engines ability to retain heat in the engine when not pushing it. I'd be concerned about the engine running too cool during winter if all the oil is heading through the cooler, that will increase engine wear and possibly cause a buildup of moisture if you're not getting the oil hot enough on normal drives.
The only way of increasing the heat dissipation is to add more surface area for the oil cooler.
The only way of increasing the heat dissipation is to add more surface area for the oil cooler.
R.E92 said:
I agree it does look like snake oil but…lots of very positive feedback from many sources..for me I don’t do short journeys in my Zeds so they tend to get properly warmed, I change the oil at least every 5k.
So I’ll see how it goes..it is fully reversible…may even get a few oil changes analysed.
As I said given my likely duty cycle some transient help to flatten oil temp peaks may help.
We’ll see
Thanks for the input
ronk said:B21 said:..,,..overtook a Porkster one day in it..god he was pissed!
Knowing the road can be better than Bhp sometimes.
For sure..if you know which way the road is going you haven’t got that imponderable what next…
Contrarily, just because you know which way the road goes doesn’t mean you know that a cyclist , horse and rider or fridge is around the corner
The 35is has now been released by the tech guy..I'm going to take it on a 850 mile tour of the UK as part of its shakedown.
The Ohlins 'clunk' sound was traced to an incorrect subassembly of washers at the top of the damper..its very obsscure but thanks to Filippo in the USA who is a Z4 35is engineering minor god..many thanks..
I've reprinted the text and diagram in the remotest case of someone else on this Forum going down this route..
"Ok ... got on the phone with Barry Battle today to catch up. He's done a lot of product development work for Öhlins USA offerings and is quite familiar with the Z4. BTW Z4 rear is almost completely lifted off the E46 ... though as any Z4 owner knows ... Z4 has MANY little differences everywhere that add up.
Barry said likely it is one of two issues - the fact that you have it on both sides says your tech is very consistent (did both sides the same) Ok ...
1) The spacers ... there are several. Easiest way to explain was for me to take the mounting diagram from Öhlins and mark it up for you. Attached at the bottom. As well for reference the PDF has Öhlins mounting instructions for your Z4. All of the items I note in the diagram must be there, or there will be a gap and the shock can bounce. Make sure you kit WAS supplied with both the 5mm and 9.5mm spacers.
2) the M10 nuts were not sufficiently torqued. I provided Barry's recommendation on how to do this, in the diagram. Just for clarity the 2.5mm set screw down inside is run all the way down to ensure the 5mm hex wrench goes down and has enough bite for when the M10 bolt gets torqued.
For some stupid reason Öhlins has two spacers next to one another (the 5mm and 9.5mm). I speculate that Öhlins pulled this from the E46 assumed the same for the E89 rear suspension, and it clunked. They then figured out they needed more space, and stuffed a second spacer in, instead of having one correct-sized spacer.
On my setup I was unhappy with the rear spring adjustment range. When Barry sells the Z4 kit in the USA, he actually now specs a completely different spring (same effective rate, just shorter, to allow for proper adjustment range. If you have any issue like this let me know and I'll provide what you need.
Öhlins is a strange company. They do some strange things. That said, there is no better damper technology one can purchase. Just ask any motorcycle racer ... ;-)
Hope this helps ... let me know if there is anything I can do for you.
Filippo"
The Ohlins 'clunk' sound was traced to an incorrect subassembly of washers at the top of the damper..its very obsscure but thanks to Filippo in the USA who is a Z4 35is engineering minor god..many thanks..
I've reprinted the text and diagram in the remotest case of someone else on this Forum going down this route..
"Ok ... got on the phone with Barry Battle today to catch up. He's done a lot of product development work for Öhlins USA offerings and is quite familiar with the Z4. BTW Z4 rear is almost completely lifted off the E46 ... though as any Z4 owner knows ... Z4 has MANY little differences everywhere that add up.
Barry said likely it is one of two issues - the fact that you have it on both sides says your tech is very consistent (did both sides the same) Ok ...
1) The spacers ... there are several. Easiest way to explain was for me to take the mounting diagram from Öhlins and mark it up for you. Attached at the bottom. As well for reference the PDF has Öhlins mounting instructions for your Z4. All of the items I note in the diagram must be there, or there will be a gap and the shock can bounce. Make sure you kit WAS supplied with both the 5mm and 9.5mm spacers.
2) the M10 nuts were not sufficiently torqued. I provided Barry's recommendation on how to do this, in the diagram. Just for clarity the 2.5mm set screw down inside is run all the way down to ensure the 5mm hex wrench goes down and has enough bite for when the M10 bolt gets torqued.
For some stupid reason Öhlins has two spacers next to one another (the 5mm and 9.5mm). I speculate that Öhlins pulled this from the E46 assumed the same for the E89 rear suspension, and it clunked. They then figured out they needed more space, and stuffed a second spacer in, instead of having one correct-sized spacer.
On my setup I was unhappy with the rear spring adjustment range. When Barry sells the Z4 kit in the USA, he actually now specs a completely different spring (same effective rate, just shorter, to allow for proper adjustment range. If you have any issue like this let me know and I'll provide what you need.
Öhlins is a strange company. They do some strange things. That said, there is no better damper technology one can purchase. Just ask any motorcycle racer ... ;-)
Hope this helps ... let me know if there is anything I can do for you.
Filippo"
Attachments
So we have stopped doing mods before Christmas..will try and get a dyno session done to see if the Stage 2+ does hit 420 BHP..of for a 800+ round trip..should be a good shake down plus learn how all the changes impact the car..washed and cleaned prior to departure.
Feeling more love for the 427Ms now they are cleaned and I used a bit of protect-all to clean the tyres up and seemed to help the satin black come out a bit..a few pictures for the record..
Feeling more love for the 427Ms now they are cleaned and I used a bit of protect-all to clean the tyres up and seemed to help the satin black come out a bit..a few pictures for the record..
Attachments
So 500 miles into my shakedown run…due to weather and just sitting mostly at speed on motorways and dual carriageways (real novelty for us in the Scottish Borders) with the hood up..issues and observations so far.
Ohlins coilover so so much better than stock adaptive suspension..the settings are Ohlins recommended…so rear sits at stock reference height and front 10mm lower..dampers front rear at 10 click settings.
Ride is compliant, controlled, no jarring , no wallowing, no bottoming ..I’m sure upping the ante later may need some tweaking but what a change.
Roll is negligible.
Steering much more precise.
19” 437Ms with Michelin PS4S very nice , no obvious foibles.
Was getting wheel spin in 6th and 7th when accelerating to overtake. Wet n greasy roads .
Quaife LSD kept both wheels in check with small amount of yoh- yoh through the wheels as they each gripped and then lost it but kept going straight.
Electronic diff / traction control coded out..didn’t try the same trick mid corner…
Unfair comparison but seems a small amount of road vibration through the new components into the chassis..
VSRF downpipes also seem to induce some harshness at certain points plus amplifies the 2000 rpm drone.
Maybe with top down you wouldn’t notice these vibrations amongst the other noises.
Despite this the sum of all these vibrations was way less than how it felt running on 18” OE runflats.
At one point had a cylinder 1 and 2 misfire when accelerating hard on the motorway.
Reset and flashed a stage 2 map to see if that changes it..
Also tried linear throttle mode at the time..felt it was a retrograde move in isolation…made car feel flat..
However then, subsequently click the throttle lag from normal to M1…now this is more like it..the combo works well on the last remaining 15 miles I tried it.
Sitting for 8 hours in a car doing not a lot you notice things…drivers door does not sit flush with body..top of the door line sits out by 1-2mm and lower than the body line at back by 1-2mm… any suggestions?
Average fuel consumption was 30.9 at an average speed over 6 hours of 69.5..
So getting there..still notice the weight on / over / past the front end..not as nimble as the old 20i despite the goodies..
Ohlins coilover so so much better than stock adaptive suspension..the settings are Ohlins recommended…so rear sits at stock reference height and front 10mm lower..dampers front rear at 10 click settings.
Ride is compliant, controlled, no jarring , no wallowing, no bottoming ..I’m sure upping the ante later may need some tweaking but what a change.
Roll is negligible.
Steering much more precise.
19” 437Ms with Michelin PS4S very nice , no obvious foibles.
Was getting wheel spin in 6th and 7th when accelerating to overtake. Wet n greasy roads .
Quaife LSD kept both wheels in check with small amount of yoh- yoh through the wheels as they each gripped and then lost it but kept going straight.
Electronic diff / traction control coded out..didn’t try the same trick mid corner…
Unfair comparison but seems a small amount of road vibration through the new components into the chassis..
VSRF downpipes also seem to induce some harshness at certain points plus amplifies the 2000 rpm drone.
Maybe with top down you wouldn’t notice these vibrations amongst the other noises.
Despite this the sum of all these vibrations was way less than how it felt running on 18” OE runflats.
At one point had a cylinder 1 and 2 misfire when accelerating hard on the motorway.
Reset and flashed a stage 2 map to see if that changes it..
Also tried linear throttle mode at the time..felt it was a retrograde move in isolation…made car feel flat..
However then, subsequently click the throttle lag from normal to M1…now this is more like it..the combo works well on the last remaining 15 miles I tried it.
Sitting for 8 hours in a car doing not a lot you notice things…drivers door does not sit flush with body..top of the door line sits out by 1-2mm and lower than the body line at back by 1-2mm… any suggestions?
Average fuel consumption was 30.9 at an average speed over 6 hours of 69.5..
So getting there..still notice the weight on / over / past the front end..not as nimble as the old 20i despite the goodies..
Around 1,200 miles now back home..being on your own over 7 days gives you time to reflect on and analyse the mods.
Sadly kernes a rear wheel and ran over a rock in the road somewhere that cause another small rim mark in another wheel
So maybe of relevance to people using MHD or xHP..I twiddled with these a few times.
I had a misfire on MHD stage2+ on a coupe of cylinders…I went to stage 2 and didn’t had a misfire..not clear as to the reason…I’ve ordered a wi-fi Bluetooth OBD adapter so it will be easier todo data logging without wires running across the knees / steering wheel.
Having been irritated following a varsity burbles I’ve switched them off so even giving it the beans very few pops n bangs ..bliss.
Setting the MHD to linear and throttle lag low gives a great throttle and driving feel, but, in stop start traffic very very easy to end up jerking along so very delicate foot required for that.
Stage 2 on xHP gives a firmer shift with a more pronounced effect in sports + mode..the shift feels a little aggressive when booting it but I guess that’s the trade off.
Noticed a clunk from the front end..just tapping the brakes quickly after just rolling makes the clunk happen…I’ll haves look.
The Ohlins plus the other mods is a game changer….goes from a bouncy cruiser that gets out of shape very quickly to one where the amount of road limits your speeds.
Back to back with a N20 powered car with some off the same mods still shows the benefit of less weight, less weight on the front end, less weight past the front axle.
So for the first time I’ve felt at one with the car…the proof is can you hustle quickly over damp and slippery roads…I can now
I’m now waiting for a farmers barn to be free so I can do the audio upgrade..
I’ve got more todo with the engine…new intake plumbing , turbos and new B58 based ignition system plus a full service with uprated thermostat and modified filter housing. I’ve got a new DCT sump coming so that will get a filter and oil change too.
Hoping to complete all mods before the new season starts.
Although the handling feels very good I need to play with the preload and damper settings at some stage.
Road conditions are not conducive at the moment.
Thanks to SmartBear for adjusting the door shut lines…much better but probably a hinge adjustment required for perfection.
Also his help in removing the EDC unit which removed the final spurious damper warning message.
Sadly kernes a rear wheel and ran over a rock in the road somewhere that cause another small rim mark in another wheel
So maybe of relevance to people using MHD or xHP..I twiddled with these a few times.
I had a misfire on MHD stage2+ on a coupe of cylinders…I went to stage 2 and didn’t had a misfire..not clear as to the reason…I’ve ordered a wi-fi Bluetooth OBD adapter so it will be easier todo data logging without wires running across the knees / steering wheel.
Having been irritated following a varsity burbles I’ve switched them off so even giving it the beans very few pops n bangs ..bliss.
Setting the MHD to linear and throttle lag low gives a great throttle and driving feel, but, in stop start traffic very very easy to end up jerking along so very delicate foot required for that.
Stage 2 on xHP gives a firmer shift with a more pronounced effect in sports + mode..the shift feels a little aggressive when booting it but I guess that’s the trade off.
Noticed a clunk from the front end..just tapping the brakes quickly after just rolling makes the clunk happen…I’ll haves look.
The Ohlins plus the other mods is a game changer….goes from a bouncy cruiser that gets out of shape very quickly to one where the amount of road limits your speeds.
Back to back with a N20 powered car with some off the same mods still shows the benefit of less weight, less weight on the front end, less weight past the front axle.
So for the first time I’ve felt at one with the car…the proof is can you hustle quickly over damp and slippery roads…I can now
I’m now waiting for a farmers barn to be free so I can do the audio upgrade..
I’ve got more todo with the engine…new intake plumbing , turbos and new B58 based ignition system plus a full service with uprated thermostat and modified filter housing. I’ve got a new DCT sump coming so that will get a filter and oil change too.
Hoping to complete all mods before the new season starts.
Although the handling feels very good I need to play with the preload and damper settings at some stage.
Road conditions are not conducive at the moment.
Thanks to SmartBear for adjusting the door shut lines…much better but probably a hinge adjustment required for perfection.
Also his help in removing the EDC unit which removed the final spurious damper warning message.
