Atacama Yellow 35is build thread
- Thread starter B21
- Start date
Scottish Borders
enuff_zed said:
You are absolutely correct…it what’s called in Human Factors ‘confirmation bias’..that is..cause you know you’ve had a problem with something, you then assume (know) that similar behaviour is associated with that same problem…cause the first Indy told me it was the sump leaking, and then the second Indy twice told me it was the sump leaking who was I to question it..
And as the symptoms showed a leak on the top right corner as you look down I just kept plugging away at it..until…I knew it couldn’t be because there was no oil in it to leak out..
I’m sure no one else has ever done that…
On the contrary old chap. I usually write these things from a position of personal experience. :wink:B21 said:enuff_zed said:
You are absolutely correct…it what’s called in Human Factors ‘confirmation bias’..that is..cause you know you’ve had a problem with something, you then assume (know) that similar behaviour is associated with that same problem…cause the first Indy told me it was the sump leaking, and then the second Indy twice told me it was the sump leaking who was I to question it..
And as the symptoms showed a leak on the top right corner as you look down I just kept plugging away at it..until…I knew it couldn’t be because there was no oil in it to leak out..
I’m sure no one else has ever done that…
Great advantage as many of you know with a winter project started early is the joy of stopping and sorting things out and moving on.
For those whose idea of a good audio system is a reasonable volume stereo amp and 2 or 4 speakers then ignore the rest of this post..
I bought the AudioFischer Match 10 DSP amp a while back, but other 1st world issues meant I ran out of time to fit it shortly after I bought it.
I did fix most of my tweeters, mid rnage and woofers which came from Audison, Eton and AudioFischer..
Unfortunately I then learnt the hard way that although I had the 677 aka Top-Fi aka Harmon Kardon 14 speaker system, the power to drive better quality but less efficent speakers.
First of all I thought I had burnt out some speakers, roof down, volume up the OE amp would overheat and slowly shut down, making some very unpleasant sounds, fortunately on cooling normal service, albeit poor quality resumed.
The issue with the E89 although its really an E90 3 series in disguise, BMW couldn't resist doing minor tweaks.
One of the unique tweaks is the addition of woofers to the audio set ups..most BMW have tweeters, mid range and woofers, the E89 has those plus woofers.
What this impacts (and I had this on Match 7 upgrade on my 20i with the 676 mid rnage 11 speakers system) is that the harness the manufacturer supplies (and in this case the suggested initial DSP s/w setup) are wrong...
Neither the harness nor the s/w recognise the existence of the woofers and /or try and push the subwoofer setting to the woofers.
Not a major issue for a competent installer but can catch the not so well informed out.
As this DSP/amp is generic (although AF do, thank god, supply almost a complete harness) then its an integration job to get around the vagaries of the extra 2 channels that E89s have over E90s.
Fortunately the Match 10 DSP is an extremely clever puppy..it has the ability to completely abstract all the input channels, be that 4 analogues, two digitals or an on board card handling bluetooth or USB inputs and then map them through a virtual management intereface to any of the 10 amplified channels and one line out (maybe for a meg subwoofer amp?)..
So in s/w in the DSP you can allocate which outputs physically exist and their amps to any / all /some of the inputs.
In addition for each physical channel you can tailor the low pass, high pass filters so you don't send loads of bass to your tweeters etc.
These filters can have different slopes and use different types of filter eg Butterworth, Bessel and so on.
at some point, because each speaker is a different distance to the lsiterner's ears..you can adjust the time taken to all coherently arrive at those ears..either by simpple physical measurement or by using the clever sampling tools to determine that for it self.
After re-reading everything 5 times over and checking TIS wiring diagrams, an afternoon on the PC saw the basic set up completed.
I'll now set it up in test format before doing a proper physical mount.
The one thing that's new to me is the MOST to digital interface box..the small one!
More modern cars, and the 677 amp on the E89 use a fibre optic daisy chain called MOST to move many types of higher volumes /faster data around the car.
Just cause its digital doesn't mean its directly compatable with the simple two chanel digital input to most (pun) amplifiers.
The MOST protocol, carries audio along with many other things..so what's needed is a bridge between MOST bus and the fibre optic digital input to the amp..this is a highly specialised bit of kit..AF makes this baby that can be configured for many verions of BMWs and others..Audi, LAnd Rover, Lambo, Merc, Porkster, Volvo and the VW Toureg..
So after I've stripped the back of the car out to get to the subwoofers to replace them with my uprated AF subs, we'll do an initial test..
For those whose idea of a good audio system is a reasonable volume stereo amp and 2 or 4 speakers then ignore the rest of this post..
I bought the AudioFischer Match 10 DSP amp a while back, but other 1st world issues meant I ran out of time to fit it shortly after I bought it.
I did fix most of my tweeters, mid rnage and woofers which came from Audison, Eton and AudioFischer..
Unfortunately I then learnt the hard way that although I had the 677 aka Top-Fi aka Harmon Kardon 14 speaker system, the power to drive better quality but less efficent speakers.
First of all I thought I had burnt out some speakers, roof down, volume up the OE amp would overheat and slowly shut down, making some very unpleasant sounds, fortunately on cooling normal service, albeit poor quality resumed.
The issue with the E89 although its really an E90 3 series in disguise, BMW couldn't resist doing minor tweaks.
One of the unique tweaks is the addition of woofers to the audio set ups..most BMW have tweeters, mid range and woofers, the E89 has those plus woofers.
What this impacts (and I had this on Match 7 upgrade on my 20i with the 676 mid rnage 11 speakers system) is that the harness the manufacturer supplies (and in this case the suggested initial DSP s/w setup) are wrong...
Neither the harness nor the s/w recognise the existence of the woofers and /or try and push the subwoofer setting to the woofers.
Not a major issue for a competent installer but can catch the not so well informed out.
As this DSP/amp is generic (although AF do, thank god, supply almost a complete harness) then its an integration job to get around the vagaries of the extra 2 channels that E89s have over E90s.
Fortunately the Match 10 DSP is an extremely clever puppy..it has the ability to completely abstract all the input channels, be that 4 analogues, two digitals or an on board card handling bluetooth or USB inputs and then map them through a virtual management intereface to any of the 10 amplified channels and one line out (maybe for a meg subwoofer amp?)..
So in s/w in the DSP you can allocate which outputs physically exist and their amps to any / all /some of the inputs.
In addition for each physical channel you can tailor the low pass, high pass filters so you don't send loads of bass to your tweeters etc.
These filters can have different slopes and use different types of filter eg Butterworth, Bessel and so on.
at some point, because each speaker is a different distance to the lsiterner's ears..you can adjust the time taken to all coherently arrive at those ears..either by simpple physical measurement or by using the clever sampling tools to determine that for it self.
After re-reading everything 5 times over and checking TIS wiring diagrams, an afternoon on the PC saw the basic set up completed.
I'll now set it up in test format before doing a proper physical mount.
The one thing that's new to me is the MOST to digital interface box..the small one!
More modern cars, and the 677 amp on the E89 use a fibre optic daisy chain called MOST to move many types of higher volumes /faster data around the car.
Just cause its digital doesn't mean its directly compatable with the simple two chanel digital input to most (pun) amplifiers.
The MOST protocol, carries audio along with many other things..so what's needed is a bridge between MOST bus and the fibre optic digital input to the amp..this is a highly specialised bit of kit..AF makes this baby that can be configured for many verions of BMWs and others..Audi, LAnd Rover, Lambo, Merc, Porkster, Volvo and the VW Toureg..
So after I've stripped the back of the car out to get to the subwoofers to replace them with my uprated AF subs, we'll do an initial test..
Attachments
A couple of project related posts..
It’s no mystery why hardly anyone offers sub woofer upgrades..it took about 5 hours of steadily working at it to get to the suckers..
To be fair I needed to work out how to get cabling from the cabin and forwards to the rear for the rear camera and the blind spot detectors..
Last time the trim that covers access to the subs I bent down from the top and squeezed my hands in.
This time I took the whole trim panel out.
So to do that you need to..
Remove outer trim panels on deck
Remove out roll over hoop covers
Remove top trim panel
Remove inner tool hoop covers
Remove out quarter top trim panels
Remove front top trim panel
Remove rear quarter speaker grills
Remove sill trims
Remove lower quarter trims.
Remove central speaker and tweeter
Remove upper tie rings
Remove cargo net
Remove lower bolts
Remove centre console
I’m sure I’ve missed a few things..
It’s no mystery why hardly anyone offers sub woofer upgrades..it took about 5 hours of steadily working at it to get to the suckers..
To be fair I needed to work out how to get cabling from the cabin and forwards to the rear for the rear camera and the blind spot detectors..
Last time the trim that covers access to the subs I bent down from the top and squeezed my hands in.
This time I took the whole trim panel out.
So to do that you need to..
Remove outer trim panels on deck
Remove out roll over hoop covers
Remove top trim panel
Remove inner tool hoop covers
Remove out quarter top trim panels
Remove front top trim panel
Remove rear quarter speaker grills
Remove sill trims
Remove lower quarter trims.
Remove central speaker and tweeter
Remove upper tie rings
Remove cargo net
Remove lower bolts
Remove centre console
I’m sure I’ve missed a few things..
Attachments
The new DSP amp needs a 50 amp supply.
The old amp has a 40 amp fused supply.
I decided just popping in a bigger fuse and praying wasn’t a good plan.
Normally you just add a thick cable with an in-line fuse and bolt it to the battery positive terminal.
Tried to be neater..I saw that adjacent to that battery is a red box..it’s the main distribution point for ultra heavy current distribution.
I saw one ‘slot’ was free but no ‘spade’ to plug into was free.
So I bought a used one to take apart and cannibalise..unfortunately internally it’s not just one bus bar but two bus bars separated.
Not to be defeated I’ll still use the idea but attach my new amp feed to the main bus bar and route it via the blank port..
The old amp has a 40 amp fused supply.
I decided just popping in a bigger fuse and praying wasn’t a good plan.
Normally you just add a thick cable with an in-line fuse and bolt it to the battery positive terminal.
Tried to be neater..I saw that adjacent to that battery is a red box..it’s the main distribution point for ultra heavy current distribution.
I saw one ‘slot’ was free but no ‘spade’ to plug into was free.
So I bought a used one to take apart and cannibalise..unfortunately internally it’s not just one bus bar but two bus bars separated.
Not to be defeated I’ll still use the idea but attach my new amp feed to the main bus bar and route it via the blank port..
Attachments
Yep getting to the subs is a right pain in the backside! I remember I had a room full or car trims and things when dismantling everything to install my subs. Regarding the fuse for the amp, couldn't you just use the right size cable put an inline fuse in and then get the appropriate connector from BMW to fit into that red junction box. That is what I did, there is a spare terminal handly just for this purpose:
Silverstar said:
Hello….as far as I can see..on my car all the available fused sockets on the power distribution board are already used…
There’s a missing one but it does not have a feed…
Where did you get the female connector /cable from ?
I’ll re look at the power distribution wiring diagram…
