Another camshafts and followers worn thread

Wouldn't most metal particles be caught in the oil filter? If you've got any larger metal bits floating around in the oil I'd be a bit concerned!
Also, is there always some oil that stays in engine even after dropping the sump plug? I vaguely remember an indie telling me you put 5.5 litres of oil in after a change as there will still be .5 of a litre in the engine?
 
When I first started DIYing on cars, we used to use a "flushing oil" when doing an oil change. This practice seems to have stopped. The idea was that after draining the old oil, you'd fill with the flushing oil, run the engine to warm to let the flushing oil circulate then drain it before refilling with the correct new oil. I can't remember when I last saw flushing oil in Halfords.
 
exdos said:
When I first started DIYing on cars, we used to use a "flushing oil" when doing an oil change. This practice seems to have stopped. The idea was that after draining the old oil, you'd fill with the flushing oil, run the engine to warm to let the flushing oil circulate then drain it before refilling with the correct new oil. I can't remember when I last saw flushing oil in Halfords.
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Seems like a very good idea! Especially after when you take apart some engine parts and notice the amount of crap that comes out when cleaning.
 
Honda motorbikes had a problem similar to this back in the 80swith their VF models.
They reckon there were two problems that caused cam wear.
One was the material was not up to standard (chocolate cams they were called)
And the other was oil starvation.
The oil starvation was not due to a fault in the engine like the oil pump, it was due to the bike being sat for a length of time and the oil draining away from the top end of the engine and then once started the cams had little oil around them until the engine started.
It was worse if the bike was parked on its side stand instead of a centre stand as one side of the top end would be almost dry.
So could it be a lack of use in some of these cars that are causing this problem?
 
exdos said:
When I first started DIYing on cars, we used to use a "flushing oil" when doing an oil change. This practice seems to have stopped. The idea was that after draining the old oil, you'd fill with the flushing oil, run the engine to warm to let the flushing oil circulate then drain it before refilling with the correct new oil. I can't remember when I last saw flushing oil in Halfords.
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Modern manufacturing tolerances, modern oils, modern fuel injection and modern EGR methods mean that you get a lot less sludge and carbon build up in the oilways in the first place. When you open up a modern engine its generally pretty clean inside, unlike the engine in the shot a post or two above!

The oil pathways are in some places much smaller in modern engines which means that, counter intuitively, you don't want to loosen any sludge deposits and block up any oil ways. Its actually better to leave it in situ. Nor do you want the residue of flushing oils left in the engine. Many modern manufacturers actually prohibit the use of it.
 
Nictrix said:
Honda motorbikes had a problem similar to this back in the 80swith their VF models.
They reckon there were two problems that caused cam wear.
One was the material was not up to standard (chocolate cams they were called)
And the other was oil starvation.
The oil starvation was not due to a fault in the engine like the oil pump, it was due to the bike being sat for a length of time and the oil draining away from the top end of the engine and then once started the cams had little oil around them until the engine started.
It was worse if the bike was parked on its side stand instead of a centre stand as one side of the top end would be almost dry.
So could it be a lack of use in some of these cars that are causing this problem?
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My car is a daily that's done14000 since I bought it, sits for longest 3 days at a time over a weekend.
 
pHilli0 said:
zmaster007 said:
Update: Parts should arrive this week, should be fixed if all goes to plan by the end of this week. For what it's worth, I found a video of pretty much exactly how my car sounded before it went in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AMXkqcYxGY
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That is awesome news !!!!! Bet you're much happier now? :thumbsup:
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Much - looking forward to getting it back. I was planning on an oil change (if they haven't done one) just in case theres any metal particles floating around once it's back with me.
 
zmaster007 said:
pHilli0 said:
zmaster007 said:
Update: Parts should arrive this week, should be fixed if all goes to plan by the end of this week. For what it's worth, I found a video of pretty much exactly how my car sounded before it went in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AMXkqcYxGY
Click to expand...

That is awesome news !!!!! Bet you're much happier now? :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Much - looking forward to getting it back. I was planning on an oil change (if they haven't done one) just in case theres any metal particles floating around once it's back with me.
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I should have mine back on Monday. He has fitted the cams and followers today, and I'm having the shells changed and the oil pump checked. I didn't think I would miss not having the car but its been 4 weeks and I'm like omg
 
zmaster007 said:
pHilli0 said:
zmaster007 said:
Update: Parts should arrive this week, should be fixed if all goes to plan by the end of this week. For what it's worth, I found a video of pretty much exactly how my car sounded before it went in:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AMXkqcYxGY
Click to expand...

That is awesome news !!!!! Bet you're much happier now? :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Much - looking forward to getting it back. I was planning on an oil change (if they haven't done one) just in case theres any metal particles floating around once it's back with me.
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The oil will be changed or at least definitely should be along with filter for that job. I would myself change it again and new filter a few hundred miles later for peace of mind.

You should have fairly trouble free motoring for some time now :thumbsup: Did you replace the head gasket whilst doing all this also? £150 part and practically zero labour. Would make sense.
 
TomK said:
Did you replace the head gasket whilst doing all this also? £150 part and practically zero labour. Would make sense.
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Didn't think of that - the car will go in to the workshop next week so I'll see if they can do it. The head won't necessarily come off to do the cams though right? I'll see what they say in any case, thanks for the heads up :thumbsup:
 
No indeed the head wouldn't come off for the cams. I was referring to the shells you mentioned, and assumed they were rod bearing shells? Then I'm pretty sure head would come off, but then I'm no mechanic!
 
The head doesn't need to come off for replacing bearing shells, unless the rods and/or pistons are also being removed. The sump, only, is removed for bearing shell replacement. :thumbsup:
 
No need for the head to come off to do the shells......

You would probably look at another 5/6 hours to do headgasket on top of cams... And then fit a CPV...lol
 
Ah really? I would of thought with the cams coming off that would be half the job to get to the head?
 
stand corrected on the HG, personally though whilst they're in there I'd get it done, can't imagine there's that much more labour. It is a part that can fail.
I was also advised to upgrade the rod bolts when I did mine to ARP which don't suffer the possibility of shearing if over-revved.
http://www.part-box.com/bmw-e36e46-rod-bolt-kit-p-6310.html
 
Tis true.....the rod bolts can stretch...

It depends how deep the pocket is,but yes it would be a good idea to have the headgasket done if you are trying to safeguard the engine...

The headgasket is suspect in the S54 and generally blows between the cylinders...Pinking is your first warning..
 
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