Z4M Engine Mounts / Bolts - **ALERT ALL Z4M DRIVERS**

[srhutch]

Has it stopped the other noise Allan?

Yes - that went a while back, and it's departure was probably the result of a bolt being shed.

Sort of good news then.

 

[craig3.2]

Has it stopped the other noise Allan?

Yes - that went a while back, and it's departure was probably the result of a bolt being shed.

That's good news it's all fixed.
How are things with you,Bing?

 

[Bing]

Yep, all good, thanks Craig

 

[andysat]

 

[craig3.2]

Yep, all good, thanks Craig

Good good. You got any plans for a drive/trip up to Scotland this year,mate?

 

[Bing]

Quick update with some pics. None of the sheared bolts, but these show how far the engine had dropped. This one is the bottom of the sump from below, above the ARB. The mark on it is wear from it rubbing on the ARB. Fortunately I think it was only rubbing for about 40 miles or so. They checked the ARB and mounts and they are fine. But imagine what another 200 miles could have done, if the remaining bolt had even managed to last that long

This one is from a different angle, and gives you an idea of how far the engine had dropped. That distance between the sump and the ARB is about 1-1.5 inches I believe.

I reckon the long thin mark in the top pic is where it was bouncing off the ARB for some time, hence the clonking could hear. The big mark is from the engine dropping when the last but one bolt let go.

Scary.

 

[Beedub]

Scary.

BMW made some really dodgy mistakes around this time of manufacturing... jesus....

 

[srhutch]

Will be checking mine this weekend.

 

[z4pilot]

Wow that is scary Is this just an issue for //M cars then? Is the engine mount method in other Z's so very different that this issue doesn't occur?

 

[Bing]

Just Ms as far as I have seen - it's the heat from testing the engine during manufacturing, and then prolonged use.

 

[hopz121]

Does anyone know if the E46 M3 suffers from this issue?

Was there a knock or a sign of something being wrong Bing?

Thanks

Ash

 

[Bing]

Symptoms on page 3 Ash. I'm afraid I have no idea if the M3 suffers the same problem.

 

[hopz121]

Thanks Bing ill have a look at mine on the M3 and see if they are similar (i'm guessing they will be)

 

[MrPT]

I was checking my suspension today and thought I'd have another go at inspecting the driver's side engine mounts. All the visible bolts have looked ok in the past; it's just the couple behind the vanos pressure accumulator which have been tricky to inspect properly.



It was a proper sh!t to get sight of, but very glad I did now!

 

[Smartbear]

That rear bolt looks like it’s backed out by a couple of threads
Rob

 

[john-e89]

That rear bolt looks like it’s backed out by a couple of threads
Rob

And then some...good job you looked Mr PT.

 

[MrPT]

Feeling relieved to have caught it but also a bit silly. The bolt that I was lazy to check might be the one that's the most likely to back out or break, going by the stories in some of these threads.

What's the latest verdict re. replacements? Uprated OEM (10.9) bolts plus Nordlocks?

 

[john-e89]

Feeling relieved to have caught it but also a bit silly. The bolt that I was lazy to check might be the one that's the most likely to back out or break, going by the stories in some of these threads.

What's the latest verdict re. replacements? Uprated OEM (10.9) bolts plus Nordlocks?

No reason to change bolts MrPT, nordlocks and thread lock should suffice I would think.

 

[MrPT]

Feeling relieved to have caught it but also a bit silly. The bolt that I was lazy to check might be the one that's the most likely to back out or break, going by the stories in some of these threads.

What's the latest verdict re. replacements? Uprated OEM (10.9) bolts plus Nordlocks?

No reason to change bolts MrPT, nordlocks and thread lock should suffice I would think.

They are stretch bolts so I’d like to bin them. Nordlocks feel like a good idea though.

Might just remove the pressure accumulator and see how mobile that bolt is before speaking to my indie.

 

[Smartbear]

Feeling relieved to have caught it but also a bit silly. The bolt that I was lazy to check might be the one that's the most likely to back out or break, going by the stories in some of these threads.

What's the latest verdict re. replacements? Uprated OEM (10.9) bolts plus Nordlocks?

No reason to change bolts MrPT, nordlocks and thread lock should suffice I would think.

They are stretch bolts so I’d like to bin them. Nordlocks feel like a good idea though.

Might just remove the pressure accumulator and see how mobile that bolt is before speaking to my indie.

We used nordlock washers on trackside connections on London Underground, they seem to do the job.
If over-torqued though, they can cause issues with the bonding of the two washer halves becoming unstable/failing.
Rob