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Z4M Engine Mounts / Bolts - **ALERT ALL Z4M DRIVERS**
- Thread starter jamiez
- Start date
Ok, so guessing most folk will now look to check their car for this. Can you highlight exactly where to look in the engine bay for this?
Angelus666 said:
Take the black plastic undertray off and the area in flimper's pic is the one highlighted below by the red arrow. If everything looks like a mess of similar colours, find the thick brown grounding cable to orient yourself.
It's worth checking all the bolts, but the other six (four per side) are easy to see in comparison.
BMWZ4MC said:I remember someone on here had the bolts back out completely leaving the engine resting on the ARBDoes anyone know if these would have been replaced when my indie changed my engine mounts to VT mounts?
Probably me, in this thread Rich - mine was back in 2016, the pics are the page before this I think. I still have one of the sheared bolt heads on my desk as a souvenir
Unless they checked specifically I don't think they'd have replaced them - you'd know about it, IIRC the bolts are not cheap.
Also, can we presume that no garage would look to assess these as part of an Inspection II service...?
john-e89 said:That’s a great pic, thanks for posting MrPT....very helpful.
You are welcome. I should reference the site I pinched it from, which has loads of high res pics of a factory condition Z4MC.
Angelus666 said:
It's not on the Insp II checklist, but they might spot a problem with the driver's side mount when they are looking at the condition of the steering UJ (which is part of the list). I wouldn't assume anything though.
A decent indie that knows the Z4M may well look at the mounts (and all other known issues) at every opportunity.
Bing said:BMWZ4MC said:I remember someone on here had the bolts back out completely leaving the engine resting on the ARB
Probably me, in this thread Rich - mine was back in 2016, the pics are the page before this I think. I still have one of the sheared bolt heads on my desk as a souvenir
Unless they checked specifically I don't think they'd have replaced them - you'd know about it, IIRC the bolts are not cheap.
I thought it might have been yours but I wasn’t sure enough to say so
In that case I’ll have to have a careful look at mine when I’m back in Aus.
Angelus666 said:
Yeah, not standard, but following the experience on my car my guys check all Z4Ms they get in for a service now, apparently. Including mine of course. Just have to be really precise when asking because first time round I was not and it turns out they had only checked the mounts themselves as I’d not explained properly.
BMWZ4MC said:Bing said:BMWZ4MC said:I remember someone on here had the bolts back out completely leaving the engine resting on the ARB
Probably me, in this thread Rich - mine was back in 2016, the pics are the page before this I think. I still have one of the sheared bolt heads on my desk as a souvenir
Unless they checked specifically I don't think they'd have replaced them - you'd know about it, IIRC the bolts are not cheap.
I thought it might have been yours but I wasn’t sure enough to say so
In that case I’ll have to have a careful look at mine when I’m back in Aus.
Reading the original post back it looks like Jamie had the same issue of the engine resting on the ARB.
What’s the normal labour time to fit the Vibra engine mounts..? Think I might get these done during the next oil service.
Quick question for anybody that knows their nuts and bolts -
The block is iron. I've bought generic, medium carbon steel bolts (10.9) because the equivalent spec ("motorsports") bolts are no longer available from BMW. I also bought some Nord-Locks, but have realised that they are stainless and that this might not be the best choice, given the load and the need to get the torque right (which, as I understand it, might be affected by galling). I think it will be fine, otherwise there would be a warning against using them in high torque scenarios, but can anybody confirm?
Not too worried about mild galvanic corrosion. I don't imagine the exposed parts will stay wet for very long.
It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. From reading what others have done, the engine can be cleanly jacked up from below enough to change the mounts with no need for disassembly of the exhaust, transmission mounts etc.
The block is iron. I've bought generic, medium carbon steel bolts (10.9) because the equivalent spec ("motorsports") bolts are no longer available from BMW. I also bought some Nord-Locks, but have realised that they are stainless and that this might not be the best choice, given the load and the need to get the torque right (which, as I understand it, might be affected by galling). I think it will be fine, otherwise there would be a warning against using them in high torque scenarios, but can anybody confirm?
Not too worried about mild galvanic corrosion. I don't imagine the exposed parts will stay wet for very long.
Angelus666 said:
It shouldn't take more than a couple of hours. From reading what others have done, the engine can be cleanly jacked up from below enough to change the mounts with no need for disassembly of the exhaust, transmission mounts etc.
