Windows not dropping for door open

[birdy_z4]

Windows have stopped dropping automatically to open door, mirrors not folding and holding key on close does not shut windows. Plus indicator flash on close does not operate

All lights, indicators working as do internal lights

Windows go up and down when operated inside as does mirror movement and close

Car opens and locks and roof opens and closes

ista is showing FRM 9CBC FRM, short circuit at front door contacts, sensor voltage 0v, can read modules in ista and ncsexpert

Inpa has same with error code 9c bc 64 01 38 7c b6 00

Has anyone else had this issue ?

Is it an FRM issue or something else

Read on a search that the short out count can be reset if no shortcut

Appreciate any advice

 

[Zforbes]

https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131707

 

[Zforbes]

Have a read, not 100% confident it's fixed yet

 

[birdy_z4]

Have a read, not 100% confident it's fixed yet

Thanks for the link, mine is both windows not opening when you open the door, did you swap the FRM out?

 

[Zforbes]

No, there is a local refurb company I went to, was convinced it was frm but he said not...

 

[birdy_z4]

No, there is a local refurb company I went to, was convinced it was frm but he said not...

would you share the company details just in case, thanks

 

[Zforbes]

No, there is a local refurb company I went to, was convinced it was frm but he said not...

would you share the company details just in case, thanks

https://braketechparts.co.uk/

Also here

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143596810820?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=jJ5YmqqeRFm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=gAndxy7rT2K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Zforbes]

The repair is just flashing the software, nothing physical and usually a duff FRM is more than a simple error, central locking failures lights etc.

There is a possibility of a corroded contact on the FRM but you would need to exchange the part to try.

Problem with mine is it goes away for months at a time.

 

[birdy_z4]

Narrowing done the fault with ista and the door contacts are not sensing door opening.

so research has shown it could be a short 9cbc, frm program issue or frm itself

would someone share there nfrm trc output some I can compare and rule out this one out?

chassis e89
ecu =cas
process ecu nfrm
change to read - lessen


could someone send meba copy I know it may not be exact, but I did a backup at 234kb previous and now get a 36kb at first read

thanks anyone

 

[Zforbes]

Not sure what info you need or how to get it, it's also likely that I have a 9CBC error as my window drop issue occurred a couple of times this week.

Over summer mine has been faultless but the colder damper weather this week seems to have caused it to start again.

I take it your window drop error is constant and you've reset the window limit switches using the buttons or inpa/ista?

As far as I know, the trigger for the window drop is within the door lock actuator itself for each side so if both are out of action permanently then sending the FRM away sounds like it would be the first port of call.

If the error is more random and the reset procedure works for a short time then it could be power related.

Out of interest how old is the battery and what type is it?

Might sound a strange question but can be a regular cause of electrical gremlins.

 

[birdy_z4]

Not sure what info you need or how to get it, it's also likely that I have a 9CBC error as my window drop issue occurred a couple of times this week.

Over summer mine has been faultless but the colder damper weather this week seems to have caused it to start again.

I take it your window drop error is constant and you've reset the window limit switches using the buttons or inpa/ista?

As far as I know, the trigger for the window drop is within the door lock actuator itself for each side so if both are out of action permanently then sending the FRM away sounds like it would be the first port of call.

If the error is more random and the reset procedure works for a short time then it could be power related.

Out of interest how old is the battery and what type is it?

Might sound a strange question but can be a regular cause of electrical gremlins.

Thanks for the reply

Unfortunately it’s both sides and they both stopped at the same time, not intermittent

Inpa will not access window regulators api errors spdaten updated too
Ista accesses FRM but says short error 9CBC, will reset FRM and operate windows but when checking door operation they state closed always

 

[Zforbes]

Not sure what info you need or how to get it, it's also likely that I have a 9CBC error as my window drop issue occurred a couple of times this week.

Over summer mine has been faultless but the colder damper weather this week seems to have caused it to start again.

I take it your window drop error is constant and you've reset the window limit switches using the buttons or inpa/ista?

As far as I know, the trigger for the window drop is within the door lock actuator itself for each side so if both are out of action permanently then sending the FRM away sounds like it would be the first port of call.

If the error is more random and the reset procedure works for a short time then it could be power related.

Out of interest how old is the battery and what type is it?

Might sound a strange question but can be a regular cause of electrical gremlins.

Thanks for the reply

Unfortunately it’s both sides and they both stopped at the same time, not intermittent

Inpa will not access window regulators api errors spdaten updated too
Ista accesses FRM but says short error 9CBC, will reset FRM and operate windows but when checking door operation they state closed always

Did you get sorted with this? Always helpful to post a solution if you have one.

 

[birdy_z4]

Not yet unfortunately things have progressively now got worse

Took the door card of drivers side and came back to it a week later and now the handbrake will not operate and engine will not start

So started a thread on battery as that may be the cause although it is saying 12.6v on test

Checked fuses all seem to be good

 

[Zforbes]

Is the battery original from new?

Good place to start by the sounds of things, don't forget to register it when you get round to fitting.

 

[birdy_z4]

Is the battery original from new?

Good place to start by the sounds of things, don't forget to register it when you get round to fitting.

Next on my list to remove, I’ve got new door contacts to fit for the short circuit I will update you on what happens

 

[Zforbes]

Is the battery original from new?

Good place to start by the sounds of things, don't forget to register it when you get round to fitting.

Next on my list to remove, I’ve got new door contacts to fit for the short circuit I will update you on what happens

Change the battery first and check, I take it your confident enough to swap the locks out, easy enough to do although drivers side a bit of a fiddle with lock barrel being aligned.

 

[birdy_z4]

Is the battery original from new?

Good place to start by the sounds of things, don't forget to register it when you get round to fitting.

Next on my list to remove, I’ve got new door contacts to fit for the short circuit I will update you on what happens

Change the battery first and check, I take it your confident enough to swap the locks out, easy enough to do although drivers side a bit of a fiddle with lock barrel being aligned.

need to read your post again and look at what needs to be done and what to use to reseal the inner door cover. Fairly confident on taking bits apart it’s the putting back that can be tricky

 

[Zforbes]

Door membrane should seal back up as is unless you've ripped it into ribbons. Taping if would be fine, this membrane should not directly be stopping moisture getting in the car, if it's getting wet you have other problems, any water getting in the door seal should naturally run down the door skin and drain out the bottom of the door.

Actuator is only 3 screws holding it in position, unclipping the inner handle Bowden cable is easy, the exterior handle one is best removed when the actuator is moved to the cavity opening in the door. The door button just unclips as does the power.

Drivers side the same but take note how the lock barrel fits, only a wiggle to get it back in through, from memory I think there is a screw holding the barrel on position in line with the lock above the catch. Think there is a grommet hiding it, only loosen though. This can be a bit fiddly but you'll know when it's correct.

Make notes and take pictures for points of reference like the route of the Bowden cable on the back of the door card

I wouldn't do any of that though without first fitting the new battery, registering and testing. It's only tiny fluctuations of voltage that can cause these issues and having 2 off actuators failing at the same time is beyond unlucky.

Hope that helps, anything else let me know

 

[birdy_z4]

Door membrane should seal back up as is unless you've ripped it into ribbons. Taping if would be fine, this membrane should not directly be stopping moisture getting in the car, if it's getting wet you have other problems, any water getting in the door seal should naturally run down the door skin and drain out the bottom of the door.

Actuator is only 3 screws holding it in position, unclipping the inner handle Bowden cable is easy, the exterior handle one is best removed when the actuator is moved to the cavity opening in the door. The door button just unclips as does the power.

Drivers side the same but take note how the lock barrel fits, only a wiggle to get it back in through, from memory I think there is a screw holding the barrel on position in line with the lock above the catch. Think there is a grommet hiding it, only loosen though. This can be a bit fiddly but you'll know when it's correct.

Make notes and take pictures for points of reference like the route of the Bowden cable on the back of the door card

I wouldn't do any of that though without first fitting the new battery, registering and testing. It's only tiny fluctuations of voltage that can cause these issues and having 2 off actuators failing at the same time is beyond unlucky.

Hope that helps, anything else let me know

Sorry for the delay, had some family emergencies so everything got parked.

so battery was the issue which now changed but that caused a whole load of other issues with engine no started, locked steering and locked handbrake.

got the steering lock fixed and now working on other faults since battery died :-(

thanks for the tips, hopefully get this issue fixed and will keep the post updated

 

[matsmith749]

Yep - failing battery casues all kinds of madness across unrelated electronics in the car.

If you have more than 1 issue that seems like it needs intense diagnostics - always start with the battery.

These have a pretty short life, 5 years old batteries or older will always be a prime suspect if chasing electrical gremlins.

Consider it a consumable.