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Which Bilsteins for E86 with M Sport suspension option?
- Thread starter ionofchios
- Start date
ionofchios
Member
I now have all the bits to rebuild the front suspension on my e86 with M Sport suspension: Bilstein B8s (35-124122, 35-124115) and Suplex springs (06248). The instructions that came with the Bilsteins don't show any rubber spring pads at the top and bottom of the springs (RealOEM parts 8, 11 in the diagram), nor any dust protection collar (RealOEM part 5 in the diagram).
So, do I need these parts? I guess the collar is a good idea, as it might keep some crap out of the bearing in the strut mount, but what about the pads?
RealOEM diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DU53-USA-12-2006-E86-BMW-Z4_30si&diagId=31_0648
Bilstein instructions attached.
So, do I need these parts? I guess the collar is a good idea, as it might keep some crap out of the bearing in the strut mount, but what about the pads?
RealOEM diagram:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DU53-USA-12-2006-E86-BMW-Z4_30si&diagId=31_0648
Bilstein instructions attached.
Pretty sure you re-use the oem spring pads etc. hence the diagram showing them with OE arrows pointing to them. No external bump stop needed on the fronts though as the B8s have internal ones.
Not sure if the same is true for rears.
Edit: effectively against the RealOEM drawing, you re-use 1-2, 4-8 and 11 from what I see. The new struts will have a new locking nut to replace 3 and a dust boot to replace 10, 9 is not needed with B8s.
Not sure if the same is true for rears.
Edit: effectively against the RealOEM drawing, you re-use 1-2, 4-8 and 11 from what I see. The new struts will have a new locking nut to replace 3 and a dust boot to replace 10, 9 is not needed with B8s.
ionofchios
Member
mjennings23 said:Pretty sure you re-use the oem spring pads etc. hence the diagram showing them with OE arrows pointing to them. No external bump stop needed on the fronts though as the B8s have internal ones.
Not sure if the same is true for rears.
Edit: effectively against the RealOEM drawing, you re-use 1-2, 4-8 and 11 from what I see. The new struts will have a new locking nut to replace 3 and a dust boot to replace 10, 9 is not needed with B8s.
Cheers!
The only OE-labled parts in the Bilstein diagram are the top spring plate, the washer and the strut mount - I can't see any lower or upper spring pad.
But, regards re-using the parts you list from RealOEM, I reckon you're probably right.
ionofchios said:mjennings23 said:Pretty sure you re-use the oem spring pads etc. hence the diagram showing them with OE arrows pointing to them. No external bump stop needed on the fronts though as the B8s have internal ones.
Not sure if the same is true for rears.
Edit: effectively against the RealOEM drawing, you re-use 1-2, 4-8 and 11 from what I see. The new struts will have a new locking nut to replace 3 and a dust boot to replace 10, 9 is not needed with B8s.
Cheers!
The only OE-labled parts in the Bilstein diagram are the top spring plate, the washer and the strut mount - I can't see any lower or upper spring pad.
But, regards re-using the parts you list from RealOEM, I reckon you're probably right.
That was the case when I installed my B4 kit, albeit I also used OEM bump stop and dust boot.
ionofchios
Member
Got an email reply from Bilstein, and, yes, you are supposed to re-use spring pads and dust collar, and no bump stop, as was mentioned before. Makes sense.
Anyways, I fitted this lot on the weekend and results are good. It sits a bit higher than it did with old suspension, even after a few drives, but that means it is now level with the back - I think there might have been lowering springs on ont he front originally, since there always used to be more clearance in the rear arches than the front.
Feels good - smoother than before, and has made further reduced twitchy, tram-liny steering issue I have been trying to correct. Old struts were not in good shape. Also replaced the dog-bones with Meyle HD at same time, so maybe that is responsible for improving steering.
Now all I need to do is work out why it pulls left under heavy acceleration. Also gonna try https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100725 to see if it improves steering further.
Anyways, I fitted this lot on the weekend and results are good. It sits a bit higher than it did with old suspension, even after a few drives, but that means it is now level with the back - I think there might have been lowering springs on ont he front originally, since there always used to be more clearance in the rear arches than the front.
Feels good - smoother than before, and has made further reduced twitchy, tram-liny steering issue I have been trying to correct. Old struts were not in good shape. Also replaced the dog-bones with Meyle HD at same time, so maybe that is responsible for improving steering.
Now all I need to do is work out why it pulls left under heavy acceleration. Also gonna try https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=100725 to see if it improves steering further.
ionofchios
Member
Some pics.
You mention pulling left, but I see no mention of having a full alignment done? Will absolutely be needed after new struts, guarantee your camber is going to be out at least.
Get it done at a good alignment place and it transforms the car. I couldn't believe the difference in mine.
Get it done at a good alignment place and it transforms the car. I couldn't believe the difference in mine.
ionofchios
Member
mjennings23 said:You mention pulling left, but I see no mention of having a full alignment done? Will absolutely be needed after new struts, guarantee your camber is going to be out at least.
Get it done at a good alignment place and it transforms the car. I couldn't believe the difference in mine.
Thanks! Yes, am planning to do that. It pulled left before I touched anything, and I think it still does it, but it is hard to tell, since weather is really bad here at the moment (snow and ice). Am also thinking about changing rear struts as well, so might do that first.