Wheels are stuck on

R

razzacom

Member
Suffolk
I have tried a number of time to remove my wheels to give them a good thorough clean but they are well and truely stuck on. I had tried hitting them with a rubber mallet with no success. I am guessing that the best thing to do is to just go to a tyre fitter and ask them if they can do it for me?
Quick question though, I recently (about 2 weeks ago) had an inspection 2 service carried out on my car. Should they have been removed during this service to carry out any checks?
 
A bit of WD40 will remove the wheels and some hard kicking. Try using the sole of your foot against the top of the wheel and then the bottom, hit hard and quickly. It worked on mine!
 
Happens often with alloys - corrosion between the hub and the wheel. I've always got mine loose with a bit of brute force as exactmax describes above. Once off, remove the corrosion from the wheel and hub and apply something (I used copperslip although that's not ideal as I believe it can react with the wheel metal too...) to the surfaces before reattaching.

I *have* heard of people loosening off the wheel bolts slightly then driving the car a few yards to loosen off the wheels. Not sure I'd be happy doing that myself in case of damaging the wheel bolts, wheels or car...
 
Don't hold me to this but my local tyre guy is always giving out about this, says it is caused by the use of a power washer on the wheels. I think he puts copper grease on inner bolts to stop it happening.
 
The loosening the wheel nuts 1/2 to a full trn a turn then pushing the car along def works. Use it on big 4x4 wheels all the time.
Less brutal is to kick the tyre from the inside but please please please make sure it's properly secure on axle stands and you're not under it and leave a couple of lugs loosely on to retain the wheel....

pvr has got some real neat wheel mates that fit between wheel and hub to prevent sticking.

Don't whatever you do copperslip the studs as it fools the torque you set the wheels at and also allows then to come of themselves :thumbsdown:
 
i had this on a ford galaxy, what a nightmare, brut force and ignorance will eventually get them off

i think i used copper slip when i put them back on, copper slip is high temperature grease (I finks)
 
cj10jeeper's advice is the one to go with ....... :thumbsup:

Trying to manhandle the tyre/wheel with kicks/rubber hammers etc works eventually, but can end up with serious grief.
 
seanodwyer said:
Don't hold me to this but my local tyre guy is always giving out about this, says it is caused by the use of a power washer on the wheels. I think he puts copper grease on inner bolts to stop it happening.
Click to expand...

It is caused by electrolytic action at the junction of 2 dissimilar metals - the alloy wheel and the steel hub.
If you can prevent the ingress of water - then you will prevent the build up of corrosion. :thumbsup:
 
MalcZ4 said:
seanodwyer said:
Don't hold me to this but my local tyre guy is always giving out about this, says it is caused by the use of a power washer on the wheels. I think he puts copper grease on inner bolts to stop it happening.
Click to expand...

It is caused by electrolytic action at the junction of 2 dissimilar metals - the alloy wheel and the steel hub.
If you can prevent the ingress of water - then you will prevent the build up of corrosion. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Actually on mine it's nothing to do with corossion per se, just an amazingly tight fit between the inner bore of the wheel and the centrering ring on the hub. You can take mine off, refit and 10 minutes later not get them off again.
 
razzacom said:
I have tried a number of time to remove my wheels to give them a good thorough clean but they are well and truely stuck on. I had tried hitting them with a rubber mallet with no success. I am guessing that the best thing to do is to just go to a tyre fitter and ask them if they can do it for me?
Quick question though, I recently (about 2 weeks ago) had an inspection 2 service carried out on my car. Should they have been removed during this service to carry out any checks?
Click to expand...

Did you have the key in the ignition when you tried to take the wheel of? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Just kidding I could not help myself :)

all joking aside, no an inspection would not require your wheels to be removed unless you asked for a beak inspection?

Anyway as has been suggested some W40 will do the trick remove the bolts then spray some W40 into the bolt holes of the wheel wait a few minutes (have a coffee) then a few bangs around the tire outside diameter should pop them right off.

Good luck
 
MalcZ4 said:
It is caused by electrolytic action at the junction of 2 dissimilar metals - the alloy wheel and the steel hub.
If you can prevent the ingress of water - then you will prevent the build up of corrosion. :thumbsup:
Click to expand...


correct :thumbsup:
 
I use the kick rotate method.

Loosen all the nuts, jack the car up remove all the nuts then kick the bottom of the tyre, rotate a little kick again and repeat until the wheel comes off. I have never seen this not work.
 
Strong bit of wood wrapped in a rag where there is wood to wheel contact and pry, i'm not a big fan off kicking the wheel far to tyreing!
 
Had to get my rear off today having picked up a screw in my newish falken Urrrr the wheel was stuck like it was welded, no amount of kicking and rotating did it. I finally shifted it with a lump hammer wrapped in thick leather, the wheel came off with surprisingly light taps to the inside of the rim, but the key was to rotate after each tap.

All fixed and happy again :D
 
etedlm said:
loosen the nuts slightly then slowly let the jack down,that free's the wheel :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Tried it, and driving forward, only the Birmingham screwdriver on the inside of the rim did the trick,
 
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