Wheels stuck on

[goon]

large mallet hitting the inner tyre sidewall whilst turning the wheel works on mine.

 

[Ste]

Cheers all, got there in the end with a big rubber mallet and a bit of patience! Winter set on now 8)

 

[Wildfire]

Do the sitting thing. Worked really well for me. Put a cloth over to avoid and scuffs and use soft soled shoes.

 

[SamUK]

I had this problem once on my e60 after having the wheels refurbished...

My brother walked to the car fast and kicked the wheel hard on one side and it came off..

I also the used a wire brush / sand paper on the inside to run it down so I don't have this issue next time...

 

[Bumpy]

Take a wheel / tire with two hands and swing it into the stuck rim / tire.
Alot more force than a mallet or boot heel.
Plus less chance of any damage.

Cheers
Bumpy

 

[techathy]

I've always jacked up one axle entirely and secured on axle stands then back out the wheel bolts a few turns. With a 4x4 a bit of angle with 10mm thick rubber stuck to it & a 9lb club hammer get under the car & firmly tap near the rim on the angle each side of the wheel & keep on doing that until the wheel moves. This way if any damage does occur it's on an unseen part of the wheel.

 

[Bumpy]

PS ..A few dabs of anti- seize between the rim and brake rotor mounting surface should solve all your future problems.

 

[shortfuse 2]

copper grease always works clean surfaces down put it on both jobs a gooden

 

[techathy]

PS ..A few dabs of anti- seize between the rim and brake rotor mounting surface should solve all your future problems.

You put the anti-seize on the hub flange NOT the disk bell face. The main force which is stopping the hub turn without the wheel is actually friction between the wheel & disc face. If you put anti-seize on that you lubricate that join and put more stress on the wheel bolts/studs. This can lead to sheered &/or deformed bolts/studs. There is also a problem where wheel manufactures remove to much metal from the hub face of the wheel. This results in a much higher stress on the wheel fitting hardware & associated issues.

 

[kis]

copper grease always works clean surfaces down put it on both jobs a gooden

I've heard many people use copper, is it worth using aluminium? Reason being that the wheel is aluminium itself? Therefore they are like-like metals? Avoids any resistance/corrosion (even though I know copper is a relatively noble and therefore stable element)? Can't make up my mind on whether to use copper or not. Most of my research states that people use it just fine on wheel and hub surfaces, although some places state that you shouldn't because they are dissimilar metals. Hardly anything out there for an alternative greaser but thought aluminium seemed logical because the alloy itself is made of it?

And while we're at it, should we grease up the bolts? Many sites I've looked at say it messes with torque settings.

Advise, experience and even (dare I say it) criticisms welcome!