What have you done to your car today?

Smartbear said:
jamie_z4 said:
Drift day didn't go too well
20180209_154547.jpg
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What happened?
Rob
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Well, seeing as I couldn't go to the drift day as in shop all day Friday, I was not surprised to get the breakdown phone call.... Jamie was less than a mile away, but I had to defer to the AA :)

Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
Smartbear said:
jamie_z4 said:
Drift day didn't go too well
20180209_154547.jpg
Click to expand...

What happened?
Rob
Click to expand...

Well, seeing as I couldn't go to the drift day as in shop all day Friday, I was not surprised to get the breakdown phone call.... Jamie was less than a mile away, but I had to defer to the AA :)

Mike
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Yeah I can't belive yiu didn't come to the rescue!

Rob, I was in the middle of a large slide, heard a bang and the battery light come on...

So come into the pit lane turned off and it wouldn't start. Wouldn't bump start either, put a new battery on it and it ran straight away, so checked the alternator and i think I've blown the alternator, when I was drifting the battery worked itself loose and shorted live on the chassis, shitter but thank f**k my Mrs is in the AA with relay!
 
jamie_z4 said:
Ducklakeview said:
Smartbear said:
What happened?
Rob
Click to expand...

Well, seeing as I couldn't go to the drift day as in shop all day Friday, I was not surprised to get the breakdown phone call.... Jamie was less than a mile away, but I had to defer to the AA :)

Mike
Click to expand...


Yeah I can't belive yiu didn't come to the rescue!

Rob, I was in the middle of a large slide, heard a bang and the battery light come on...

So come into the pit lane turned off and it wouldn't start. Wouldn't bump start either, put a new battery on it and it ran straight away, so checked the alternator and i think I've blown the alternator, when I was drifting the battery worked itself loose and shorted live on the chassis, shitter but thank f**k my Mrs is in the AA with relay!
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I DID warn you about how close that POS terminal was to the earth!!

Mike
 
Yeah alot more progressive although just bedding in so have been gentle with them. Also getting used to the different feel in the pedal. :thumbsup:
 
Rusky said:
Yeah alot more progressive although just bedding in so have been gentle with them. Also getting used to the different feel in the pedal. :thumbsup:
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You have done the "proper" bedding in procedure I presume though? Being gentle with new discs and pads just glazes them up and is not what the manufacturers recommend.

Mike
 
Just washed the 108s get all the salt and road grime off after an early morning run now got my hands wrapped around a hot cuppa trying to get some feeling back in my fingers
 
Rusky said:
Whats the correct procedure Mike?
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Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material.

Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don't think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it's required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don't want them to overlap.
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I generally perform four or five rapid stops in succession from 60mph down to walking pace, gets the pads hot enough to gas off the release compounds, then drive for a mile or so without using them or coming to a stop.


Mike
 
Ducklakeview said:
Rusky said:
Whats the correct procedure Mike?
Click to expand...

Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material.

Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don't think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it's required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don't want them to overlap.
Click to expand...

I generally perform four or five rapid stops in succession from 60mph down to walking pace, gets the pads hot enough to gas off the release compounds, then drive for a mile or so without using them or coming to a stop.


Mike
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+1 for that, I also do this at least once a month to keep the pad/discs free from build up.
 
Took my shiny polished and waxed zed out for a nice long blast and got it absolutely filthy if that counts :D .
A tunnel run, fairly quiet roads and a heavy right foot - not much better than that! :driving:
 
I took my wiper motor out to lubricate all the pivot points in an attempt to get rid of a squeak. All was well until I refitted the wiper arms, whereupon of course he squeak returned! A dash of oil on the hung points on the wiper arms and the noise now seems to have gone, which would of course have been a much easier fix to start with.....

I also took one foam out of the sound generator pipe - what a pain that is to clip back in place on the bulkhead!

Then I took the projector out of my RH xenon to clean it in pursuit of improved lighting. It was definitely dirty l, so I’ll have to do the other side before long.

F22484BD-DE28-4D05-9F98-533FADB9E152.jpeg

B95692D4-8E3C-4E7C-857D-2AD27B54D6C9.jpeg
Dirty (left) vs clean (right)

Chris
 
Fitted 12mm spacers to front and 16mm spacers to back, repainted engine cover, Cleaned off 'tattty' rubber stuff and sprayed steering wheel spokes silver, dried out 'foggy' headlamp and drilled fog lights. Was very impressed with the spacer kits from Simoni sport.
 
AveZ4coop said:
Fitted 12mm spacers to front and 16mm spacers to back, repainted engine cover, Cleaned off 'tattty' rubber stuff and sprayed steering wheel spokes silver, dried out 'foggy' headlamp and drilled fog lights. Was very impressed with the spacer kits from Simoni sport.
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Piccies :oops: :)
 
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