What have you done to your car today?

caius said:
...a replacement Pioneer head unit that adds Wireless CarPlay, and importantly lets me move the floating screen down so it doesn't block the heater vents. Pioneer SPH-DA97DAB...
Got pics of that installed? I'm thinking about something similar. Does it need anything special to connect it to the BMW bus system for steering wheel controls? Also, the SPH-D777DAB seems like it's the same unit, but with a smaller screen which doesn't seem to be moveable, but it's almost half the price!
 
She’s come in for a festive fluids change at Bartlett Automotive Huntingdon. Always feels like it is in good hands here. Would highly recommend to anyone in the Beds/Cambs area.

(ignore the Puma, it’s a courtesy car)
 

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ryushe said:
caius said:
...a replacement Pioneer head unit that adds Wireless CarPlay, and importantly lets me move the floating screen down so it doesn't block the heater vents. Pioneer SPH-DA97DAB...

Got pics of that installed? I'm thinking about something similar. Does it need anything special to connect it to the BMW bus system for steering wheel controls? Also, the SPH-D777DAB seems like it's the same unit, but with a smaller screen which doesn't seem to be moveable, but it's almost half the price!

https://www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/bmw-3-5-7-series-mini-x3-x5-z4-steering-stalk-control-adaptor-phone-button-support-ctsbm004-2.html is the harness adapter needed, including Steering Wheel Controls into aftermarket head units. (protip: plug the harness into the head unit before the car when connecting up, other wheel buttons might not work.)

I've not finished fitting it and decided on where it'll be, the screen is a bit bigger than I wanted but it's the smallest floating pioneer I could find that adjusted up/down. I also got a bit overexcited by the idea of Wireless CarPlay as my previous one required a cable. The -UNI head units are the "universal" ones from what I can tell which have more adjustability. Downloading the installation instructions PDF for a model is the most reliable method I've found to see how adjustable they are. You'll need a 1 DIN "floating" screen for the Z4, any that are 1 DIN but take up a 2 DIN space in the dashboard would require blanking off the vents.

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The old one for reference, sits much higher and only adjusts in/out from the dash, no tilting or moving vertically relative to the head unit.



The other way is to retrofit a screen in the dashboard like the OEM nav system, and then replace that with an android based aftermarket screen. Not sure if they have touch-screen variants (probably), otherwise you'd need to retrofit the idrive knob to control them as well. I've not gone that route.
 

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Finally got round to fitting new disk and pads on the rear of my E89. Struggled to get the old disks off the hubs. Although I've got INPA installed on an old laptop I decided to buy an Autophix 7910 to keep in the car, which can also put the EPB in maintenance mode. Pleased with the speed / functionality of the Autophix.
 
Fitted the new head unit a couple of days ago but wasn't entirely happy with it, have done a few miles in the last couple of days with it and am still unhappy with how much it's blocking the vents. The new screen is also much taller so is starting to hide the heater controls from my driving position too, could do with moving the screen lower which is possible but then it hides all the heater controls which is unacceptable.

Out of interest I pulled the old one out the box and held it up roughly in the position it was previously to compare to the new screen position. Turns out there's basically no difference, so I've spent a bunch of money to have the same problem with a more expensive head unit that has a larger screen and requires a GPS sensor on the dashboard too.



Undid the back of the screen on the old unit and I think I can design a new bracket that sits it about 35mm lower, which will drop it enough the vents are above it whilst also keeping the heater controls visible. So that's the new project to start the year off.
 

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After no success finding the solution online, and didn’t fancy cutting up a £600 carbon snorkel from the e46.
Took it upon myself to make a snorkel for the haimus/ karbonious csl plenum to utilise the oem intake inlet


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patriot66 said:
LRC said:
Tried to fit a different air filter to replace the infinitas one as they say it's to restrictive. Failed, filter I got was too big, back to find the right one.
I've tried both Ramair and DNA filters on my Infinitas s/c. The Ramair was too big by about 10mm in every dimension and so was tight up against the suspension tower and bonnet when it was shut, stressing the plastic body of the MAF. I settled on a DNA which is a little smaller, fits perfectly and has been excellent so far. My engine is the 2.5i M54 so the MAF is 80mm diameter, the 3.0i is 90mm iirc :thumbsup:IMG-20220407-WA0011.jpg20220331_163257.jpgScreenshot_20220429-212143_Chrome.jpg20220612_173945.jpg

Cool, thank you, i will try a DNA one :)
 
Long time coming - rocker cover gasket replacement to fix remaining oil leak (other leak was oil filter housing gasket which has been fixed) and at the same time refurbing the VANOS.

What's odd is that the new gasket seems to have mould on it. Emailed the seller - bought it May 2023 so it's been a while but everything is still sealed.

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Going pretty smoothly so far, valve cover removed. Not looking forward to getting the VANOS unit out next though!

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Rsipad said:
As mentioned, very easy. Takes around 10 minutes.
Neens76 said:
Rsipad said:
Clutch delay valve delete. Should've done it years ago.20250102_205547.jpg
I’ve a mind to try this. Easy job?
But what does it do? Or doesn’t it do, now it ain’t there…?! Is it like tonsils? God gave you them but you don’t really need them? Just curious…
 
I believe it delays the engagement of the clutch because the valve has a smaller diameter than the hydraulic hose. So slower engagement puts less strain on the drive train in the event of ham-fisted (or ham-footed) gear changes.

But if you are competent with a manual change it just interferes!
 
Mr Tidy said:
I believe it delays the engagement of the clutch because the valve has a smaller diameter than the hydraulic hose. So slower engagement puts less strain on the drive train in the event of ham-fisted (or ham-footed) gear changes.

But if you are competent with a manual change it just interferes!
Precisely. Less fluid allowed in by smaller hole = slower clutch engagement. In my case, the slower engagement meant extra slipping, which caused my clutch to overheat on track
 
Fitted a drivers side cup holder, aftermarket £17 ebay special. Fit feels perfect, though the alignment of the front plate seems slightly off. I'll take a photo later and check it.

For that authentic BMW OEM feel, I used a torx screw for the cup holder to vent connection, so you need two different tools to remove it.
 
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