charmlea said:
hi mitch, what a mint job, carnt wait to actually see it close up one day, give me a bell if your passing cambridge, bring your papper and polishing cloths !!!! what do you rekon to these claybars that every one goes on about? and what one would you recomend?
Mick [ cambridge]
for someone starting out, I would recommend the clay bar from Bilt Hamber. You get a lot of clay for your money, plus you can safely use it with water - no need for other costs like "special" clay lube.
What I would also say is, and this is to help with the claying, and potential damage from it, is to add in 2 chemical decontamination stages... firstly a dedicated tar remover (if needed) and secondly a dedicated fall out/iron remover.
These chemical stages are quicker, easier and safer for your paintwork.
paulgs1000 said:
Mitch,
what's all this measurement about!
The measurement is for the clearcoat of the car.
Most cars have colour paint, with a clear coat on top, and that is the bit that gets polished/wet sanded.
However, you only have a certain thickness of clear.
The clear can be hard, or soft, it can be thicker in some places than others, it can be sticky... but when it's gone, you have to repaint the car.
So excessive polishing/sanding can lead to either no clear coat (burn through) or lower it so much that it fails and starts to fall off the car.
You should measure the clear before any work to a) know the levels, and b) spot any non standard paint work.
You should also measure the clear when deciding on what polish to use - helps you know removal rates i.e is your polish too aggresive, do you have soft or hard clear coat.
and you should measure it when wet sanding after each grade/pass for the same reasons above.
still got a lot more to do :| 
