wet sanding the z4/ detailing engine
- Thread starter mitch_z4.
- Start date
looks good, although you are meant to work up the grades of paper, not down...
so start with the lowest number and work up to finish on 3000 or 4000...
it'll make the polishing stage easier for you and remove less clear coat...
are you recording how much you are removing???? ;-)
so start with the lowest number and work up to finish on 3000 or 4000...
it'll make the polishing stage easier for you and remove less clear coat...
are you recording how much you are removing???? ;-)
the cueball said:
3000 is a light cut, so by starting with the 3000 i would be taking of less than starting with 2000 which could take off more than is needed ,you can take off the clear coat but not put it back on.
I have been recording in Microns (Metric Measurement) but will post all reading when the whole car is finished
Well I'm sure you know what you're doing on your car, all different ways to do something like that...
Doesn't make sense to me to try and polish out 2000 marks - makes it a lot harder... But each to their own!! :-D
And as I say, looking good...
Be interested in your final readings when you're all done.
At least the stupid orange peel will be gone!!!!
Doesn't make sense to me to try and polish out 2000 marks - makes it a lot harder... But each to their own!! :-D
And as I say, looking good...
Be interested in your final readings when you're all done.
At least the stupid orange peel will be gone!!!!
the cueball said:Well I'm sure you know what you're doing on your car, all different ways to do something like that...
Doesn't make sense to me to try and polish out 2000 marks - makes it a lot harder... But each to their own!! :-D
And as I say, looking good...
Be interested in your final readings when you're all done.
At least the stupid orange peel will be gone!!!!
yes your right there are all different ways of doing it, i was toying with the idea of using a machine to to the job but chose to do it by hand
i think its all down to personal preference and what your use to. as you have said, the main thing is that the orange peel has gone, looks 100 times better
thanks for the comments
the cueball said:Well I'm sure you know what you're doing on your car, all different ways to do something like that...
Doesn't make sense to me to try and polish out 2000 marks - makes it a lot harder... But each to their own!! :-D
And as I say, looking good...
Be interested in your final readings when you're all done.
At least the stupid orange peel will be gone!!!!
Yep totally the point I was making.... however good job.
Nanu said:
It's down to the newer water based 'safer' paint..
I've seen some horrible paint on very expensive cars... Shame, but 99% don't understand/care/complain
hi mitch, what a mint job, carnt wait to actually see it close up one day, give me a bell if your passing cambridge, bring your papper and polishing cloths !!!! what do you rekon to these claybars that every one goes on about? and what one would you recomend?
Mick [ cambridge]
Mick [ cambridge]
A
Anonymous
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Wow OP great job, however you must have very large b*lls to do that 
Thanks for all the comments gus really means a lot
sorry haven't posted any more of the wet sanding have got more done, but along the way i have had a coolant leak (now all sorted)
hello mick, firstly thanks for the comment
as regards to the claybars its a personal choice (as a lot of products) but i am a very big fan of autofinesse so i use there clay bar with there clay bar lubricant, but before i used there products i was using the meguiars claybar, there honestly wasn't a big difference between them and to be fair i found the meguiars very good as you can pop into halfords and pick some off the shelf. hope this help you
sorry haven't posted any more of the wet sanding have got more done, but along the way i have had a coolant leak (now all sorted)
charmlea said:
hello mick, firstly thanks for the comment
as regards to the claybars its a personal choice (as a lot of products) but i am a very big fan of autofinesse so i use there clay bar with there clay bar lubricant, but before i used there products i was using the meguiars claybar, there honestly wasn't a big difference between them and to be fair i found the meguiars very good as you can pop into halfords and pick some off the shelf. hope this help you
Mitch,
Incredible work and must take courage to use such techniques on your car - do you use straight polishing or in circles - what? How much pressure is involved and what's all this measurement about!
Amazed!
:driving:
Incredible work and must take courage to use such techniques on your car - do you use straight polishing or in circles - what? How much pressure is involved and what's all this measurement about!
Amazed!
:driving:
charmlea said:
for someone starting out, I would recommend the clay bar from Bilt Hamber. You get a lot of clay for your money, plus you can safely use it with water - no need for other costs like "special" clay lube.
What I would also say is, and this is to help with the claying, and potential damage from it, is to add in 2 chemical decontamination stages... firstly a dedicated tar remover (if needed) and secondly a dedicated fall out/iron remover.
These chemical stages are quicker, easier and safer for your paintwork.
paulgs1000 said:
The measurement is for the clearcoat of the car.
Most cars have colour paint, with a clear coat on top, and that is the bit that gets polished/wet sanded.
However, you only have a certain thickness of clear.
The clear can be hard, or soft, it can be thicker in some places than others, it can be sticky... but when it's gone, you have to repaint the car.
So excessive polishing/sanding can lead to either no clear coat (burn through) or lower it so much that it fails and starts to fall off the car.
You should measure the clear before any work to a) know the levels, and b) spot any non standard paint work.
You should also measure the clear when deciding on what polish to use - helps you know removal rates i.e is your polish too aggresive, do you have soft or hard clear coat.
and you should measure it when wet sanding after each grade/pass for the same reasons above.
the cueball said:charmlea said:
for someone starting out, I would recommend the clay bar from Bilt Hamber. You get a lot of clay for your money, plus you can safely use it with water - no need for other costs like "special" clay lube.
What I would also say is, and this is to help with the claying, and potential damage from it, is to add in 2 chemical decontamination stages... firstly a dedicated tar remover (if needed) and secondly a dedicated fall out/iron remover.
These chemical stages are quicker, easier and safer for your paintwork.
paulgs1000 said:
The measurement is for the clearcoat of the car.
Most cars have colour paint, with a clear coat on top, and that is the bit that gets polished/wet sanded.
However, you only have a certain thickness of clear.
The clear can be hard, or soft, it can be thicker in some places than others, it can be sticky... but when it's gone, you have to repaint the car.
So excessive polishing/sanding can lead to either no clear coat (burn through) or lower it so much that it fails and starts to fall off the car.
You should measure the clear before any work to a) know the levels, and b) spot any non standard paint work.
You should also measure the clear when deciding on what polish to use - helps you know removal rates i.e is your polish too aggresive, do you have soft or hard clear coat.
and you should measure it when wet sanding after each grade/pass for the same reasons above.
When ever your ready you can start on mine son, after the pics I saw the other day of the shine on your side view I was shocked, if mine looks half as good I will be happy