Google besian systems and vanos there's a lot of good info on there including a how to. However it's cheaper to buy the actual parts from the likes of i6automotive or eBay this side of the pond. Have never seen one that's actually had a running issue so to speak due to vanos. however I have seen soft codes in the ecu (codes that don't flag an eml). Done 4 now personally and there's been a noticeable difference on all 4. All were smoother and torqueier as a result. Dont get me wrong its not like a remap on turbo but its certainly noticable. Youll get slightly better mpg too, nothing dramatic 1 to 2 mpg at most. Mileages ranged from 50k upwards on the ones I have done. Its not a particularly well know repair so my money would be on them need doing as most haven't heard of it, but the job itself isnt massively complicated. If your handy with the spanners 3 to 4 hours at home.brillomaster said:
VANOS
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ph001 said:
Yes, you can test operation whilst the engine is running by activating the solenoids and comparing the "requested" timing advance against the "actual" not sure on the torque lost in actual ftlb, but it is a fair chunk imo.
Mike
dhobbs said:
N52 doesn't suffer as the seals are of the later material, it DOES have it's own foibles though
Mike
Having driven Mike's car I can definatley see a noticable difference in mid range torque, not quite a fair comparison as mines a manual with no backbox so I imagine the lack of backbox will be robbing some power also Mike's is on 70k mine is on 147k so the seals I imagine are well past their best though.
Will be going to an independent garage though to have mine done, f**k Mike he's well overpriced
Will be going to an independent garage though to have mine done, f**k Mike he's well overpriced
jamie_z4 said:Having driven Mike's car I can definatley see a noticable difference in mid range torque, not quite a fair comparison as mines a manual with no backbox so I imagine the lack of backbox will be robbing some power also Mike's is on 70k mine is on 147k so the seals I imagine are well past their best though.
Will be going to an independent garage though to have mine done, f**k Mike he's well overpriced
You’re not bigging up mikes car are u?
U know that’s not allowed.
Truth said:jamie_z4 said:Having driven another forum members car I can definatley see a noticable difference in mid range torque, not quite a fair comparison as mines a manual with no backbox so I imagine the lack of backbox will be robbing some power - mine is on 147k so the seals I imagine are well past their best though.
Will be going to an independent garage though to have mine done, f**k Mike he's well overpriced
You’re not bigging up mikes car are u?
U know that’s not allowed.
Amended post to suit :?
So if it was never done, and you don't hammer around all the time, will it make much difference? Nothing will fall off and damage other things? The car will not conk out at all? No consequential damage to the engine etc? It just feels duller mid range, and will continue to do so without affecting reliability or running, is that correct?
Paulr said:
No, it'll just remain "flat" from 2k-5k, although I have known them to rattle a bit on startup, presumably due to the vanos pistons touching the bores with zero oil pressure as the engine is cranked, which is one of the symptoms the OP had. Some people have also reported a rough idle on other forums, which went away when they were done.
Mike
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Paulr said:
Same here.
Subjectively I think my car pulls well through the mid band, esp for an NA engine. Id want to drive a manual 3.0se with a refreshed vanos to know what im missing before doing the job.
Paulr said:
Ah, but technically it is broke, but you just don't realise :?
Mike
TomK said:
Not used DIS for testing as my launch has a specific test procedure for it so can't say. I would assume it's basically the same, but the launch combines the monitoring and activations in the same screen and gives a pass/fail rather than just figures.
Mike
So if it passes you don't do the work I guess? Just seems to me that if anyone is concerned whether their vanos is working correctly, plug your laptop in and run the test, it's what BMW would do if you took it to them. Takes 10 mins and would save a wasted journey :? From recollection DIS gives pass/fail and figures.
I'd did my first vanos fix must be heading towards a decade ago on an E46. Its a bit easier on them, more clearance etc. I did it because I found some soft codes for vanos issues in my wife's 330i. I found the codes and did a bit if digging and basically found Besian systems site. Bought their kit and was thinking "will I really notice a difference?" I did and the codes went from the ecu etc.
I would advise anyone to do it but it's not a necessity like say a knackered coil pack etc. You could easily leave it to it gives a issue which it may never do. Only thing I would say is that your probably driving around with mid range torque akin to a 2.5 or even a 2.2 leaves the factory with if you have a 3.0 and progressive less on the smaller M54 engines. Dont get me wrong it's not night and day like remapping a turbo but its definitly noticeable. Worth doing especially on any M54 if your handy with the spanners and these days there are vendors in the UK selling the kit and the other gaskets etc don't cost the earth. You can basically do this fix yourself for circa £100 depending on the parts you use and where you buy or any trade discounts etc
I would advise anyone to do it but it's not a necessity like say a knackered coil pack etc. You could easily leave it to it gives a issue which it may never do. Only thing I would say is that your probably driving around with mid range torque akin to a 2.5 or even a 2.2 leaves the factory with if you have a 3.0 and progressive less on the smaller M54 engines. Dont get me wrong it's not night and day like remapping a turbo but its definitly noticeable. Worth doing especially on any M54 if your handy with the spanners and these days there are vendors in the UK selling the kit and the other gaskets etc don't cost the earth. You can basically do this fix yourself for circa £100 depending on the parts you use and where you buy or any trade discounts etc
I’d really like to have a go at this but space looks very tight to get the vanos out :thumbsdown: I’ve read some people have loosened the bolts on the front engine brace and moved it slightly forward to gain some space. Would this be necessary or is there an easier way to gain some extra room to remove the vanos?
A
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davros said:
I asked a similar question earlier in the thread. You have to losen the engine mounts and jack the block up to get access