Vanos seals

Joez4 said:
So you think the torque is not critical and just do them up tight within reason?
Disclaimer! I've had about 40 years of practice and must admit I rarely use a torque wrench now unless it's for head bolts etc that require a critical setting.
On those little left-hand beggars I do just tweak it until it 'feels ' right.
 
When I tightened them with a normal wrench I could feel they wouldn't go much tighter and 8nm isn't much just worried about them working loose especially when compared to how tight they felt to remove in the first place but I guess they had been in there 20 years and the rotations should tighten them over time
 
Joez4 said:
When I tightened them with a normal wrench I could feel they wouldn't go much tighter and 8nm isn't much just worried about them working loose especially when compared to how tight they felt to remove in the first place but I guess they had been in there 20 years and the rotations should tighten them over time
The whole reason they are left thread is so momentum keeps them tight. You'll be fine. Trust me.................. :roll:
 
enuff_zed said:
Joez4 said:
So you think the torque is not critical and just do them up tight within reason?
Disclaimer! I've had about 40 years of practice and must admit I rarely use a torque wrench now unless it's for head bolts etc that require a critical setting.
On those little left-hand beggars I do just tweak it until it 'feels ' right.

+1

They are always NRFT over RFT

Not really f**king tight as opposed to really f**king tight
 
bigwinn said:
enuff_zed said:
Joez4 said:
So you think the torque is not critical and just do them up tight within reason?
Disclaimer! I've had about 40 years of practice and must admit I rarely use a torque wrench now unless it's for head bolts etc that require a critical setting.
On those little left-hand beggars I do just tweak it until it 'feels ' right.

+1

They are always NRFT over RFT

Not really f**king tight as opposed to really f**king tight
I did wonder why you'd started talking about run flat tyres :rofl:
 
On first fire up left the car to run for 10 mins seems to be running fine no misfires, idling nicely etc still have the rpm surge on cold startup tho was thinking changing so much stuff that would dissappear.

Also on scanning the car with ista I have two new codes for fuel mixture lean on bank 1 and 2 I assume this is a result of the vanos rebuild and the car will learn new adaptations etc.
 
It's possible I have a leak, I have had the throttle body, rubber boot, idle control valve, disa valve off the car to install the ccv.

I'm pretty sure everything has been put back correctly and I replaced all gaskets along the way.

Before doing the work I've never seen these codes, no engine lights on and ista says the faults are not currently present which from my experience with ista something triggered the codes but they have not stayed active, ie when I had bsd generator fault when the code was currently present I had no charge from the voltage regulator, on changing that part and then getting a charge in ista the code changed to not currently present but remained in the history till I deleted it.
 
Joez4 said:
It's possible I have a leak, I have had the throttle body, rubber boot, idle control valve, disa valve off the car to install the ccv.

I'm pretty sure everything has been put back correctly and I replaced all gaskets along the way.

Before doing the work I've never seen these codes, no engine lights on and ista says the faults are not currently present which from my experience with ista something triggered the codes but they have not stayed active, ie when I had bsd generator fault when the code was currently present I had no charge from the voltage regulator, on changing that part and then getting a charge in ista the code changed to not currently present but remained in the history till I deleted it.
Well if all is good then you do something and faults appear it’s a fair bet it’s something you did.
 
I just thought it might be an effect of rebuilding the vanos and or replacing the ccv tbh the car always seemed to burn a bit rich on startup and my spark plugs are mostly sooty, I've deleted the codes I'll see if they come back and I'll check if carly and my cheap code reader find the same codes.
 
I think it was a blip on startup as it does say that it would cause the engine management light to come on which it hasn't, I'll soon know if its a problem next time I scan the car
 

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[ref]Jamturbo[/ref], did you finish this vanos rebuild? Just wondering if you had success in loosening the cross member bolts & then prying it back a bit? I tried it today (on my own, so no one able to hold the pry for me admittedly) and just couldn't seem to get any clearance - wondering what I am doing wrong!
 
Hi Merlot Machine. Rebuild was done successfully a while ago.
I remember what a pain it was. I too was on my own. After loosening the cross member bolts, I used a long piece of wood, clamped under my armpit and levered it enough to get the vanos unit out. It was tough to be prising the gap open and also to have a hand on the vanos. What a poor design. I recommend getting another body to help so you don't hurt and strain yourself. There isn't much movement on the cross member but there should be just enough. Worth mentioning that I had to disconnect a rigid water hose as it was in the way, it meant draining the system. Good luck.
 
enuff_zed said:
Instead, undo the rh engine mount and jack the engine up an inch or two
I second this, I didn't have to jack up much about an inch if that and the vanos came out easily
 
Ah, the power of the collective. Seems I did it the hard way. I will put it down to lack of experience but glad the ordeal is over :D
 
Seems like we have a growing forum consensus that jacking the engine is the 'easiest' way. I was busy yesterday so couldn't continue the job, will get out there and have a go today. Thanks for the input chaps :thumbsup:
 
I'm having a nightmare!

I've currently got the intake side of the vanos unit nice and loose, ready to slip off. Unfortunately, the exhaust side is not having any of it! It seems that where the shaft connects with the vanos unit has seized together. The result being that as I pull the vanos unit forward to get it out, the shaft on the exhaust side slides out with it. No amount of coaxing, pulling, moving in and out, rubber mallet tapping etc. has done the trick so far.

Has any one ever encountered this? Any suggestions if so? Hopefully the picture below helps to explain what I mean. It's the shaft which the arrow is pointing at which is sliding out still stuck onto the vanos unit.

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Mine came away very easily, only thing I can think is that the build up of oil varnish on the vanos has created some kind of bond assuming the left hand thread bolts have been removed.

Can't see how it could seize with it always coated in oil
 
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