Uh oh. Bennys' first tantrum! WAYHAAAY We're back in business! :) EDIT: 2000 mile update.

Crapsticks!
Same problem.
All reassembled and plugged back in. Turn of the key, fingers crossed and buttocks clenched. Then, plup, plup, plup as the engine attempts to splutter into life.
Not avin it tho. Not a sausage. Not budging. Just a pulsing engine as before but this time seemed even more loathed to settle into a rhythm.
So switched off, locked up, stormed back into the house to make a nice cup of PG. Bummer.

It's looking like a new throttle body's needed then MM. Any particular make or brand you'd reccomend?
is it a straight swap in for the new one or any coding/calibration required?

and re. the ground testing - i couldnt fing the ground terminal under the carpet near the right as u described - what does it look like specifically? and i assume +ve terminal on battery?

thanks for all ur advice btw! :thumbsup:
 
So why does a slightly more open throttle cause the lumpiness? I could understand it running lean if fuelling was fixed, but surely the air mass increases and therefore the fuel too?
 
Scooba_Steve said:
So why does a slightly more open throttle cause the lumpiness? I could understand it running lean if fuelling was fixed, but surely the air mass increases and therefore the fuel too?
Click to expand...

It's not so much 'lumpiness' scoobs, as being purely undriveable!
On startup it's pulsing...almost like fuel starvation. Will order a new TB, fit and see what happens. Fkin chew at eur250+!

If it aint the TB i'll have to bite the bullet and let my local indie let rip on it.

Shitbollockstitwank!
 
Scooba_Steve said:
So why does a slightly more open throttle cause the lumpiness? I could understand it running lean if fuelling was fixed, but surely the air mass increases and therefore the fuel too?
Click to expand...

From my understanding the TB needs to close to reference so it knows where it is. So if it can't do that it goes into some weird function hunting to find revs and can't synchronise all the sensors and ECU.

But I could be wrong.
 
Machine monkey said:
Scooba_Steve said:
So why does a slightly more open throttle cause the lumpiness? I could understand it running lean if fuelling was fixed, but surely the air mass increases and therefore the fuel too?
Click to expand...

From my understanding the TB needs to close to reference so it knows where it is. So if it can't do that it goes into some weird function hunting to find revs and can't synchronise all the sensors and ECU.

But I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

It doesn't seem to close MM. I.e. It doesnt sit 90degrees or perpendicular to the plenum tunnel. about 5-10 degrees to the perpendicular, leaving a gap. So if u poured water through it it would eventually all escape etc.

Is that normal for a tb?
 
Since your not absolutely certain it is the TB I notice a number of them on ebay secondhand for around £20. If it were me I would buy one of these and then it isnt costing a fortune it it turns out to be something else. You could always buy a new one at a later stage.
 
Mike6 said:
Since your not absolutely certain it is the TB I notice a number of them on ebay secondhand for around £20. If it were me I would buy one of these and then it isnt costing a fortune it it turns out to be something else. You could always buy a new one at a later stage.
Click to expand...

Might give that a shot mike. Any links? Handy for elimination perhaps
 
Like I say if it don't close and it's making rattling noises I would be thinking its goosed!! Try a second hand one it's a good idea.

I am not a gambling man. But from what you have discribed I would put money on a TB fixing your car.
 
Machine monkey said:
Like I say if it don't close and it's making rattling noises I would be thinking its goosed!! Try a second hand one it's a good idea.

I am not a gambling man. But from what you have discribed I would put money on a TB fixing your car.
Click to expand...

How do u define 'closed' MM? Plenum perpendicular to body? 90 degrees?
 
Chris_D said:
Machine monkey said:
Like I say if it don't close and it's making rattling noises I would be thinking its goosed!! Try a second hand one it's a good idea.

I am not a gambling man. But from what you have discribed I would put money on a TB fixing your car.
Click to expand...

How do u define 'closed' MM? Plenum perpendicular to body? 90 degrees?
Click to expand...

Humm well if I closed your front door to your house. And you could still see inside you would tell me I hadn't! So like in your picture you can see light through the the TB I would say that's not closed. It should be 100% vertical touching all the way round. Open 100% horazontal.
 
I'll spring for a new one. See how it goes....
Not planning to get rid of this soon so....
 
Machine monkey said:
Chris_D said:
Machine monkey said:
Like I say if it don't close and it's making rattling noises I would be thinking its goosed!! Try a second hand one it's a good idea.

I am not a gambling man. But from what you have discribed I would put money on a TB fixing your car.
Click to expand...

How do u define 'closed' MM? Plenum perpendicular to body? 90 degrees?
Click to expand...

Humm well if I closed your front door to your house. And you could still see inside you would tell me I hadn't! So like in your picture you can see light through the the TB I would say that's not closed. It should be 100% vertical touching all the way round. Open 100% horazontal.
Click to expand...

All the pics of TB's i've seen out of engines and in resting position have a small 5 degree attitude to the body - like a small gap between valve and body. i.e. not a closed-fit.
Got a 2nd hand one coming via ebay (top tip) to try out and hopefully eliminate TB as the culprit.
If not, the search goes on.
I remember the recovery guy saying something about the values between the TB and pedal sensors were out by 24% or something.
Should I be looking at the pedal sensor/sender?

Will check earths on Monday as I'm currently away biking for the weekend.
 
Chris_D said:
dammit- u reckon its a goner then? it should be fully closed/sealed 90degrees against the body when off the motor?
I just finished cleanin it. lol
what would you do? baz in a new one?
there's LOTS of resistance when u push the plenum and springs back to what feels like a datum location. surely a throttle body would never have to be fully closed/sealed?
Photo 02-09-2016 15 26 49.jpg
Click to expand...

This might help answer your question. The flap in this video looks to close fully and open fully (to 90 degrees)
[youtube]zSMIkSjzY2I[/youtube]
 
Thx enzed. However it's literally about 3-5 degrees from the perpendicular when in its closed position.
If u look at that vid carefully you will be able to tell.
Mine locks at about 3-5 degrees off the Perpendicular and i think this is the design.
U would need a small amount of air entering the engine on idle in any case.
 
So I found a youtube link to another poor unfortunate who looks like he was experiencing EXACTLY the same phenomenon as I'm experiencing right now:

[youtube]https://youtu.be/RrukNGUHNLg[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RrukNGUHNLg&index=11&list=PLJg_R2F7Y-_CtqUFdXZAAAQOELssl1JH3

My car is making exactly the same noises - pulsing and not settling down into a smooth idle on startup.

Currently waiting for a BMW-specific diagnostics scanner, new battery and throttle body (2nd hand but working) to arrive as further elimination steps. Already swapped in a new lower intake boot and cleaned MAF, throttle body and ICV. Checked DISA. Also checked hoses (visually) for leaks.

Anyone experienced anything like in the vid? The guy ended up trading his car in without successfully addressing the problem sadly so pretty inconclusive.

edit: dont know if anyone can see preview of the vid? i can't. link posted anyhoo.
 
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