TPS issues

bigwinn

bigwinn

Elite
 Lincoln UK
Site Supporter
Took the m out for a good run today as it’s been languishing on the drive due to the coupe getting worked on

Drove like a dream- however 1 hour in I noticed it was a little ‘survey’ if that’s a word.

Then the car went into limp mode when accelerating with traction control indication faults. These reset on ignition off- which was similar to issues I got when I got the car which were TPS issues

Scanned the codes and sure enough TPS issues-

2CEE throttle valve actuator sluggish
2D09 DME throttle valve
5E19 engine management interface

I changed the two TPS in the engine 9 months ago- so I’m not immediately thinking they are at fault.

Would this be a linkage issue needing lubricating?

Acceleration not affected it seemed to be an issue when the car got hotter sitting in traffic

Thanks in advance

Stuart
 
TPS seems unlikely if recently replaced, usually good for around 60k in my experience. Were they Genuine BMW?
Actuator could well be knackered, rare but have heard of it. Hopefully not as....not a cheap part unsuprinsgly!

I would get the airbox off, make sure it's all moving smoothly and nothing's sticking or catching on anything. Not using jubilee clips on the airbox / TB boots are you?
You can actuate the throttle bodies with the engine off using INPA / ISTA which may help.

You can switch the 2 TPS sensors around see if that changes anything. Otherwise does sound like a duff actuator. I would see if someone's got a spare you can test as a new one is thick end of a grand I believe. That's even if it's available from BMW. Might be repair services available I guess.

I've got a bit of a forced 'restoration' going on with mine at the moment and there's a worrying trend of random but important parts having no ETA, especially trim pieces.

I doubt the Gruppe M is to blame, never had that kind of problem in 60 odd thousand miles with mine fitted.
 
Thanks Andy good input

I can’t recall the TPS brand but they weren’t cheap… so I concur I don’t think that’s the issue

I can’t find a new actuator available on any site as it stands- and the rebuild options look like the guys in Spain for €380… so if you know anyone who has a spare I’d be grateful?

I’m not keen to buy a used part (interchangeable with e46 part according to oem) as they may go the same way

I will check there is no fouling when I activate with inpa in the am
 
bigwinn said:
Thanks Andy good input

I can’t recall the TPS brand but they weren’t cheap… so I concur I don’t think that’s the issue

I can’t find a new actuator available on any site as it stands- and the rebuild options look like the guys in Spain for €380… so if you know anyone who has a spare I’d be grateful?

I’m not keen to buy a used part (interchangeable with e46 part according to oem) as they may go the same way

I will check there is no fouling when I activate with inpa in the am
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Only thing I would say, it's generally BMW or nothing with TPS sensors. Any other brand than Genuine are well known to be no go as they can fail very quickly / not work properly, regardless of cost.
Hella were the OEM which were fine to use but they no longer make them and haven't done for some time now so if you don't know they were genuine, I would be suspicious personally. The manufacturer should be printed on the outside of the sensor so you can check the one on the top rail, save you disassembling all the airbox stuff.

On the plus side TPS sensors are the bargain price of around £100 now (maybe more).....at least it's cheaper than an actuator :headbang:

I don't know of any spares but like you say, interchangeable with M3's so M3Cutters would be worth keeping an eye on if you do need one. I presume its just a bunch of cogs / motor inside so if you can get it rebuilt that's what I would do, a new one is frankly an outrageous rip off. They used to be around £500 new not all that long ago.
 
I think I’ve found a couple of second hand actuators that aren’t mega expensive.

Despite me saying I didn’t want second hand it may allow me to get mine off and have a crack at refurbing it if the gears are failing

Thanks for the steer though
 
I get 2CEE sometimes after a long SORN - in my case it’s the needle bearings in the throttle shaft getting gummed up. With the airbox off it’s very easy to pop the actuator linkage off and feel for any resistance in the assembly with your hand - the INPA test doesn’t always pick this up.

There’s no permanent fix apart from a rebuild (good thread on here somewhere) but WD40 into the bearings and a throttle reset works for me. Don’t think it would happen if I drove it year-round, but this way it’s at least a big hint the bearings need some TLC.
 
MrPT said:
I get 2CEE sometimes after a long SORN - in my case it’s the needle bearings in the throttle shaft getting gummed up. With the airbox off it’s very easy to pop the actuator linkage off and feel for any resistance in the assembly with your hand - the INPA test doesn’t always pick this up.

There’s no permanent fix apart from a rebuild (good thread on here somewhere) but WD40 into the bearings and a throttle reset works for me. Don’t think it would happen if I drove it year-round, but this way it’s at least a big hint the bearings need some TLC.
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Again very useful. The fact it’s not been driven for a while makes me think it’s a combination of those issues

I’m deffo going to grab a second hand unit to get mine on the bench to give it a good overhaul

👍🏻👍🏻
 
Removed the actuator, packed up and ready to send to Spain. EBM engineering look the best option to rebuild the actuator

I’ll report back on how that goes

There are second hand ones (amongst the scammers) for a similar rebuild price, I’m probably going to pick one of those up as I can’t find anywhere selling new units.

Thanks to @TomK for the loaner unit- I’ll take it out for a spin later to check alls well

The mechanism on the intake felt smooth and no impedance.

I was very surprised taking the intake chamber off that all the jubilee clips were loose. Ok the rubber seals were tight but for all 6 clips to have worked loose… what do other people use? Factory oem bands?

Thanks all- I’ll report back

IMG_0862.jpeg
 
Factory bands are fine (and avoid any clearance issues you might have with j-clips), but you do need the right tool. These push-pin removal pliers, with a bit of modification to make the tips sharper, are cheap and work well.
 

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You can use jubilee clips, just make sure the screw heads are clear and don’t foul to allow full throttle. If they catch, the car shuts the power off pretty rapid and with a big bang…..ask me how I know 🤔 When I had issues I replaced the throttle pedal and the 2 TPS and did a throttle reset. I take it you’ve cleaned the ISV whilst you were in there.
I did find in the revs on the Imola MR would “hunt” when hot with the gruppe fitted however, I’ve not had this issue on the Sepang.
 
Simon 3.2M said:
You can use jubilee clips, just make sure the screw heads are clear and don’t foul to allow full throttle. If they catch, the car shuts the power off pretty rapid and with a big bang…..ask me how I know 🤔 When I had issues I replaced the throttle pedal and the 2 TPS and did a throttle reset. I take it you’ve cleaned the ISV whilst you were in there.
I did find in the revs on the Imola MR would “hunt” when hot with the gruppe fitted however, I’ve not had this issue on the Sepang.
Click to expand...
I’ve not looked at the ICV yet- I’ll have a google may as well give it a clean next time it’s off

Cheers Si
 
Simon 3.2M said:
You can use jubilee clips, just make sure the screw heads are clear and don’t foul to allow full throttle. If they catch, the car shuts the power off pretty rapid and with a big bang…..ask me how I know 🤔 When I had issues I replaced the throttle pedal and the 2 TPS and did a throttle reset. I take it you’ve cleaned the ISV whilst you were in there.
I did find in the revs on the Imola MR would “hunt” when hot with the gruppe fitted however, I’ve not had this issue on the Sepang.
Click to expand...
That’s interesting re. the “big bang”. Is it just the throttles slamming shut? Because this is exactly what I get if the throttle shaft sticks - must be some kind of failsafe (accompanied by an EML light and limp home mode shortly afterwards in my case).

It’s alarming but I guess it must be safe as it’s just very abrupt engine braking. Wouldn’t like it to happen mid-corner, mind. 😮
 
I think I get the same problem as yours. Mine happened after a long drive with cruise control, which means keeping a very small throttle for 1 hour or longer. Then suddenly the car will go into limp mode. I can switch off/on to continue to drive, but the same thing will happen soon. Once I arrive somewhere and park for a while, it is gone. Usually won't come back with this problem that day.

Super wired. I also replaced two TPS. I guess the actuator will be the next thing. I got a price for over 1500 dollars...
 
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