This Pin 12 trick to open the boot

[Stash36]

Wow what a setup Robbi.
I bought these plastic clip on numbers that work well, can slide them out of the way to get access.
Still, hasn't stopped me possibly messing up

Interesting idea Chippie, not sure how that would work. I'll have a think over the week and try something else next weekend.

 

[RobbiZ4]

Is it possible to disconnect the hoses and blow down each pipe in turn to see which is which?

That could be tricky, as each hose has a diameter of only 2 mm. At first you have to blast out the oil over 3,30m(!) I'm not sure if that works without any adapter for the air gun.

 

[RobbiZ4]

I'll have a think over the week and try something else next weekend.

Well, if you've mixedup two hoses from one side of the roof shell, it should turn immediately instead of trying to move forward or backward. That should be easy to diagnose visually.

 

[Stash36]

Update, I had hydraulic lines 11 and 21 the wrong way around. Still not there are the rear shell is moving like a crab, suspect something bent whilst I've been trying to sort this, but a a problem for another day.
Can get windows up finally!

How do I get the boot lid out of maintenance mode?

 

[RobbiZ4]

...the rear shell is moving like a crab

What do you mean by this: the roof shell is moving very slowly or it gets caught somewhere?

How do I get the boot lid out of maintenance mode?

Just pull the BMW emblem when the roof is fully closed or fully opened.

 

[Stash36]

So it does! Thank you Sir

I'll make a video of the movement when I get a moment.

 

[Stash36]

Ok, my crab like rear shell. Cant see anything obvious but I'm sure something must be out of shape.

https://youtu.be/78elbybZWPU

https://youtu.be/rRf77aH86pQ

 

[B21]

Ok, my crab like rear shell. Cant see anything obvious but I'm sure something must be out of shape.

https://youtu.be/78elbybZWPU

https://youtu.be/rRf77aH86pQ

Oh dear not good..quite a thump when the shells go into the boot too..

 

[RobbiZ4]

Obviously a problem with one of the hydraulic rams in the rear roof shell or, a problem with the hydraulic pump!
Can't be justified in any way!

Only tests with replacement parts can identify the real issue. Keep in mind, that hydraulic rams have to be replaced pairwise. If not, the new one will move with a different speed as the old one on the other side and you will run into the exact same problem!!

 

[Stash36]

Thanks Robbi.

Movement was exactly the same with both complete motor units, so I think the motor/pump is good. (Have returned one now for refund).
How certain are you about the RAM and something not being bent? When only one side was lifting the rear shell did twist quite a bit.
The steel looks damn strong and unlikely to bend though, I would think.
I know that's an unfair question but really value your opinion.

And if I go for new RAMs, is it these part numbers... 54377223337 and ..3338?

How hard is the job, I've searched this forum and cant find it being done, I saw one thread where I think you advise its a four hour job?

 

[RobbiZ4]

At first, the correct parts are the "Hydraulic cylinder, roof shell", partno 54377223333/54377223334
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LL11-EUR---E89-BMW-Z4+18i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0402&q=54377223333

Problems with these rams, like seen on your videos, might be sourced on one bended piston of this pair of rams. 1/10th of a millimeter leads to a slower speed compared to it's partner.

These parts are very expensive and cost about 720€ each. As you don't have spare parts for testing, it's a very difficult dicision, how to continue.

Normaly exchanging both rams for a first check will show, if this whiggle effect will change to a mirrored behaviour. But, both rams are built constructively a bit different and the left one can't carry the hall sensor, that is mounted into the right ram.


The hydraulic pump has 3 modules: reservoir, hydraulic unit, e-motor. If there is a problem with the hydraulic unit, a motor replacement has no effect on it's (mis)function. What did you replace, the motor or the complete hydraulic pump?

 

[RobbiZ4]

...quite a thump when the shells go into the boot too..

That doesn't matter and can be heared very often. To improve this landing sound, you have to replace the two "Gas pressurized springs", partno 54377212634:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LL11-EUR---E89-BMW-Z4+18i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0398&q=54377212634
Take new pairs only from STABILUS (0728PB) with 800N, nothing else or cheaper! It's tricky as well, to get it replaced.

 

[B21]

...quite a thump when the shells go into the boot too..

That doesn't matter and can be heared very often. To improve this landing sound, you have to replace the two "Gas pressurized springs", partno 54377212634:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/part?id=LL11-EUR---E89-BMW-Z4+18i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0398&q=54377212634
Only take new pairs from STABILUS 0728PB with 800N, nothing else or cheaper! It's tricky as well, to get it replaced.

 

[flybobbie]

Preempt boot problems, fit a remote boot switch wired back to the boot.
As we know if we get a fail with roof part open, can't open boot.
I can now with remote switch.

 

[Stash36]

The hydraulic pump has 3 modules: reservoir, hydraulic unit, e-motor. If there is a problem with the hydraulic unit, a motor replacement has no effect on it's (mis)function. What did you replace, the motor or the complete hydraulic pump?

I replaced the whole pump and motor, its looking likely I've bent one of these then. Worth a try if I can get some off a scrapper.
How hard are these to replace, do I need to take the rear shell off? I cant find a video or guide of this anywhere so far.

 

[RobbiZ4]

The rams can be taken off from the lower side of the roof shell. The axle has to be clipped off, then you have to take over the two hydraulic hoses. 2x2 new o-rings are required, 3.3x1.00 mm NBR70.

Used rams from eBay are risky, as they might be damaged as well.
New ones are too expensive to just replace them on a guess base.

 

[Stash36]

O rings ordered, not sure what parts to try. roof motors have them but that's where this saga started.

In addition to the roof, my windows have stopped working, just like trish331 described, and my washer jets are weedy. Think the car is able to read the latest forum problems and provide an instant fault.
We're not getting on at the moment.

 

[Chippie]

Is it possible you are discharging the battery

 

[javis20]

Are you sure you didn't fry the frm module? Do you have a code reader to see if you can communicate with that module?

That would stop the windows, convertible top and auto headlight leveling. Turn on the car and see if the headlights go thru their start up routine. Left, right and up and down. If they do it's not the frm.

 

[Stash36]

Thanks both.
Battery is fine.
Same as Trish331, my passenger window button works on that side, windows on driver panel dont.
Mirror switches are fine.
Windows drop to open the door, and work ok with the roof open/close mech.

I have a footwell module error, 9CBA disturbed communication with LIN panel / short circuit fault 3.
I was doing a lot of opening and closing as I was removing tints from the windows.

I've read the FRM can lock out, does this make sense to anyone?

If a short circuit is detected in a circuit, the circuit is switched off after ten seconds. This circuit remains switched off until therIe has been a terminal change (terminal 15 > terminal 30 ‐> terminal 15). A renewed attempt to switch on is only made after a terminal change. The control unit permanently switches off the corresponding output if a total of 10 terminal changes have taken place while there is a short circuit in a circuit. After repairing the short circuit, the output is reactivated using a diagnosis command in the testing procedure. If the short circuit is still present, the output will be switched off again after 10 seconds and permanently switched off again after another 10 terminal changes.