Steering fail icon after a short trip

Sllimc

Member
 Greater Manchester
Hi had a steering problem today after a short trip to the shops. Car hasn’t been use much during lock down this year but I use a CTec charger when not using the car. The car had been started several time during this short trip before the problem/ icon appeared,could the problem be due to a poor battery ( it’s original and the car is 61 plate). I have started the car tonight after being on charge and the fault icon didn’t return and the steering felt ok
 
Whether or not the battery is the problem with your steering I can’t say, but a 10 years old I’d definitely be looking at replacing it
 
Sllimc said:
Hi had a steering problem today after a short trip to the shops.
What was the problem with the steering? Or was it just that a warning icon has indicated a problem? It was unclear.
Initially presuming an old battery is responsible for every error or problem is IMO a dangerous way of fault finding.
 
It was just the icon at first just after starting the engine, I was at home about to put the car in the garage. I put the car away and left it for an hour then restarted and tested steering felt ok then went hard (no assistance). Left on charge all afternoon then retest, steering felt normal and the icon had gone. The car is booked in for service at the weekend so will have it checked.
The car isn’t my main car so won’t be using it before the weekend. I have seen that you can get odd electrical problems when the battery fails that why I asked the question
 
Chippie said:
Whether or not the battery is the problem with your steering I can’t say, but at 10 years old I’d definitely be looking at replacing it
 
Sounds like it may be something to do with the PAS pump. No expert.
As you have said, get it checked out by a garage. :thumbsup:
 
Pondrew said:
Sounds like it may be something to do with the PAS pump. No expert.
As you have said, get it checked out by a garage. :thumbsup:

It’s an electric motor not a pump. I’m pretty sure if the battery is week then the car starts to shut down certain electrical system which could explain the power steering failure
 
My steering did this, I also lost the sports button function.
Possible that it could be the battery, it sounds like you have had good service from it.
If your steering is still stiff and no sports button after you do the battery, it's normally the ECU on the steering motor. This can be repaired for around £300.
Let us know what happens with the new battery
 
Chippie said:
It’s an electric motor not a pump. I’m pretty sure if the battery is week then the car starts to shut down certain electrical system which could explain the power steering failure
OK motor. You could well be correct, but that wasn't my point (and I wasn't criticising you at all, as you stated it may not be related), it was what the OP said about it maybe being the battery.
My point was that fault-finding, especially with safety related items should be carried in a certain sequence. The battery is not the starting place. That is all. :thumbsup:
 
Pondrew said:
Chippie said:
It’s an electric motor not a pump. I’m pretty sure if the battery is week then the car starts to shut down certain electrical system which could explain the power steering failure
OK motor. You could well be correct, but that wasn't my point (and I wasn't criticising you at all, as you stated it may not be related), it was what the OP said about it maybe being the battery.
My point was that fault-finding, especially with safety related items should be carried in a certain sequence. The battery is not the starting place. That is all. :thumbsup:

My reply wasn’t meant to come across as being criticised :D , just pointing out its an electric motor and possibly being turned off, I’d still be looking at changing the battery first though.
 
Chippie said:
Pondrew said:
Chippie said:
It’s an electric motor not a pump. I’m pretty sure if the battery is week then the car starts to shut down certain electrical system which could explain the power steering failure
OK motor. You could well be correct, but that wasn't my point (and I wasn't criticising you at all, as you stated it may not be related), it was what the OP said about it maybe being the battery.
My point was that fault-finding, especially with safety related items should be carried in a certain sequence. The battery is not the starting place. That is all. :thumbsup:

My reply wasn’t meant to come across as being criticised :D , just pointing out its an electric motor and possibly being turned off, I’d still be looking at changing the battery first though.

:slappy: :gfight:
 
Chippie said:
Pondrew said:
Chippie said:
It’s an electric motor not a pump. I’m pretty sure if the battery is week then the car starts to shut down certain electrical system which could explain the power steering failure
OK motor. You could well be correct, but that wasn't my point (and I wasn't criticising you at all, as you stated it may not be related), it was what the OP said about it maybe being the battery.
My point was that fault-finding, especially with safety related items should be carried in a certain sequence. The battery is not the starting place. That is all. :thumbsup:

My reply wasn’t meant to come across as being criticised :D , just pointing out its an electric motor and possibly being turned off, I’d still be looking at changing the battery first though.
In this instance, given the age of the battery and the history these cars exhibit of issues caused by a failing one, I would indeed start by ensuring you have a good battery fitted. Without that you would never know if any reading you obtained from any tests were true or also affected by a lack of battery power.
Had the OP stated he had a fairly new battery then we could 'possibly' have discounted that, though of course depending on usage profiles, it may still be the issue.
PS. I am only rolling this grenade in on the off-chance the first one was a dud. :D
 
A quick update had the key checked for error messages and it was clear, as car being serviced at the weekend I have requested a new battery and a health check (part of the service work). As the garage is some way from me I will soon know if there are other issues .As I said in the first post it was after a short trip made up of short sections so no real chance to put charge back into the battery.
Let’s see what the weekend brings. Cheers for any comments
 
Sllimc said:
A quick update had the key checked for error messages and it was clear, as car being serviced at the weekend I have requested a new battery and a health check (part of the service work). As the garage is some way from me I will soon know if there are other issues .As I said in the first post it was after a short trip made up of short sections so no real chance to put charge back into the battery.
Let’s see what the weekend brings. Cheers for any comments

I had all sorts of issues on the car I bought brought about by a combination of an original battery and the owner not using it.

When I used a software reader it came up with dozens of error messages.

Plus the roof would and then wouldn't work.

A new battery, registered and error codes cleared and all but one of the errors went not to come back.
 
When the engine is running electrical power is provided by the alternator - not the battery in usual circumstances....
 
Thanks for the comments, here is a quick update drove to the garage today for the service steering was ok for most of the trip but returned just before I got there. The old battery was replaced as part of the work. The trip home was ok (headlights and wipers on) until I turned into my road when I got the warning but still had power assistance. The next step is to get diagnostics done.
 
It’s possible you could have a problem with the alternator, if you have a volt meter you can check thee voltage across the battery terminals, I think you should have around 12.5v without the engine running and around 14.5v with it running
 
Chippie said:
It’s possible you could have a problem with the alternator, if you have a volt meter you can check thee voltage across the battery terminals, I think you should have around 12.5v without the engine running and around 14.5v with it running

With the e89 cars having ibs charging the voltage with the car running can vary from 12v to 14.8v depending on battery health and where in the charging algorithm the systems at :thumbsup:
Rob
 
Just had access to a code reader and found A54B = faulty rack motor. This looks like a common fault for a car with this electric servo rack. Next step is to get it repaired. I have seen a different post on here re this and a company that fixes them at a fraction of the BMW cost. Next step is to remove said motor.
Thanks for any previous comments.
 
Hi a quick update on this, I sent the servo motor to ECUtest as found on a different post and they tested and confirmed the problem, repaired the unit. The motor is now refitted and all appears ok now.
A big thanks to the forum members for your comments and information that allowed me to repair this.
 
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