Steering doesn't feel right

[Ewazix]

As above If it's not heat related then it's unlikely to be 'the' sticky steering problem requiring a column change. I had something similar a couple of years ago and was cured never to return by lubricating the two universal joints in the lower steering assembly - accessed down the drivers side of the engine, first emerging from the firewall and follow it down to the second. They are very exposed and close to heat sources. Mine were cruddy and dry, I lubed with some high temp gear oil and re-do them every six months.

The transformation was instant, others have had similar success so it's worth a try. I went the whole hog and got rid of the RFT's which cured the tram-lining and had a full 4-wheel alignment and suspension inspection.

As a matter of interest I I've seen a BMW technical bulletin posted that explicitly stated it's caused by the internal gear tolerances being too close causing the mechanism to bind when it gets hot. It seems the EPS pushes harder to overcome the resistance - which gives suddenly causing the jerky on-off feel reported. As the EPS works harder it heats and exacerbates the problem, there is also a thermal overload trip which reduces EPS assistance when overheating. Any degradation of the lubrication in the column presumably won't help but is sealed. This explains why a complete column change was advocated for those who had 'real' sticky steering sorted under warranty, as opposed to just changing the module if that had been the only problem.

 

[Jembo]

I go with Bing's suggestion over summer tyres not getting the adhesion in winter, not sticky steering, as I've experienced exactly the same thing of grip & then very light intermittent steering during colder temperatures - not happened since my Zeds been waring it's new winter boots

Let us know if u finally identify the problem your end

 

[Stuart Truman]

As a matter of interest I I've seen a BMW technical bulletin posted that explicitly stated it's caused by the internal gear tolerances being too close causing the mechanism to bind when it gets hot. It seems the EPS pushes harder to overcome the resistance - which gives suddenly causing the jerky on-off feel reported. As the EPS works harder it heats and exacerbates the problem, there is also a thermal overload trip which reduces EPS assistance when overheating. Any degradation of the lubrication in the column presumably won't help but is sealed. This explains why a complete column change was advocated for those who had 'real' sticky steering sorted under warranty, as opposed to just changing the module if that had been the only problem.

That's a great bit of feedback

 

[JamesJ]

Cheers for the suggestions guys, I will let you know when I cure the problem!

 

[vortex]

I am very sorry to highjack this thread.
Just wanted to ask Ewazix for instructions or pictures on how to apply oil to the universal joints.
I've had similar problems which are not RFT or steering column related, so I'd like to rule out the UJ getting stuck.

Cheers.

 

[Ewazix]

I am very sorry to highjack this thread.
Just wanted to ask Ewazix for instructions or pictures on how to apply oil to the universal joints.
I've had similar problems which are not RFT or steering column related, so I'd like to rule out the UJ getting stuck.
Cheers.

No prob, standing drivers side (UK) look down the side of the engine and you will see the steering column protrude from inside the cabin through the firewall in to the engine bay. The articulated knuckle joint is the UJ that may need some lubrication. Follow the shaft down and you will just be able to see the lower UJ. I find that I can use a small long handled paint brush to dab some high temp gear oil on to them although the lower one is tricky. Other people use a spray with a tube or used a long spouted oil can to drip in a small amount of oil (not WD40 which will wash out lubricants!). Or approach the lower one from under if you have ramps/jack.

There has been a debate about the type of lube to use, I went with high temp gear oil because it's light enough to penetrate, won't run when hot and isn't sticky like grease which can attract harmful grit and dirt, but others made valid points in favour of other lubricants. It probably doesn't matter too much (I'm sure engine oil or 3-in-1 will do fine) so long as it's NOT WD40 or penetrating fluids. Ultimately the UJ and lower shaft can easily be changed if it's really corroded and I'd be willing to bet this would cure a lot of the problem people have when they assume they have heat related sticky steering. All I can say is mine felt instantly smoother and perfect once lubricated.

 

[vortex]

You know I wish I had read your answer first, as I went ahead and used WD40 on it tonight, prior to reading your post !

Oh well, I'll get a brush and properly lube it with motor oil first thing tomorrow morning.

Thank you very much, I found both U joints, one is where you've indicated,the other one is below the engine block, where the steering rack meets the steering column.

Very much appreciated !

 

[Ewazix]

You know I wish I had read your answer first, as I went ahead and used WD40 on it tonight, prior to reading your post !

Oh well, I'll get a brush and properly lube it with motor oil first thing tomorrow morning.

Thank you very much, I found both U joints, one is where you've indicated,the other one is below the engine block, where the steering rack meets the steering column.

Very much appreciated !

No prob', it's certainly worth a try

 

[JamesJ]

Finally got this fixed, it was the control arm bushes, both were shot! Replaced these and had a full geometry done, car is now perfect again

Just wanted to update the thread in case anyone searches for this in the future, its always nice to find the solution at the end of a thread!

 

[nightyard]

Hey James,
I had the exact same feeling...like really loosey goosey sterring.

I had front bushes replaced which makes me feel like its better now...might be in my head though!