Sound deadening and door speaker install

Ah ok, brilliant. I need to have another more thorough read. Did the roll of sticky stuff hold the foam back OK?
 
RJS-Z4 said:
Ah ok, brilliant. I need to have another more thorough read. Did the roll of sticky stuff hold the foam back OK?
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Oh yes, the butyl rubber is very, very sticky - one of the reasons for trying to cut the original bead in two is that butyl bonds to butyl very, very well. The original strip on my doors was still sticky enough to rebond but I added another bead because I had the strip. As far as weatherproofing goes, by only cutting through the top half of the seal, you're not disturbing the lower section so the chances of any water ingress is very small even without the additional bead - the foam liner has a number of cable holes in the upper half and I've never heard of any leakages through those
 
Good mod.

Did the same to mine many years ago. Coated the door skins with sound deadening and dropped in some decent door speakers. Only difference on the mounting is I didn't use self tappers, rather mounted some extra bolts so nothing worked lose.

Added LED's in inner and outer door handles and puddle lights too while at it :)

All makes the sound of the doors, audio and lighting so much more appropriate to the Zed.
 
cj10jeeper said:
... Did the same to mine many years ago. Coated the door skins with sound deadening and dropped in some decent door speakers. Only difference on the mounting is I didn't use self tappers, rather mounted some extra bolts so nothing worked lose...
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How did you add extra bolts? I looked at this but couldn't see a way to add bolts without access to the other side of the door card and I didn't want to remove the leather
 
From memory I part split the 2 halves of the panel where plastic welded, cut slots and added bolts that way. Frightens me to self tap with trim on other side.

No big deal - you've done a great job.
 
cj10jeeper said:
From memory I part split the 2 halves of the panel where plastic welded, cut slots and added bolts that way. Frightens me to self tap with trim on other side
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Me too, but the moulding surrounding the speaker is at least 10mm deeper than the surrounding area, so I figured that 10mm screws wouldn't penetrate as far as the leather
 
Well with the sound my window made tonight, I think I may be opening the door to replace the regulator soon, so I'll do this at the same time. :(

Is there any reason you used 4mm and 2mm rather than just one thickness all around? Would it be better or worse to use 4mm for all areas? Applying the stiff to the back of the door card will add weight and some sound deadening to the door I'm sure (as intended) but isn't it better to apply more to the door skin metal? (If I had lots spare I would add everywhere, such as boot floor etc)

Thanks
 
So does the 6 speaker set up not have any speakers in the door?

Does it make that much of a difference o he overall sound?

Any chance you could put up a drawing of the wiring? I could see where you soldered and also not sure why at that point? Is it the same point that the 8 speaker set up runs the speakers from?
 
T2FFN said:
Well with the sound my window made tonight, I think I may be opening the door to replace the regulator soon, so I'll do this at the same time. :(

Is there any reason you used 4mm and 2mm rather than just one thickness all around? Would it be better or worse to use 4mm for all areas? Applying the stiff to the back of the door card will add weight and some sound deadening to the door I'm sure (as intended) but isn't it better to apply more to the door skin metal? (If I had lots spare I would add everywhere, such as boot floor etc)
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No reason at all - as I hadn't worked with Silent Coat before, I wasn't sure what it was like or how flexible it was so I ordered both thinking that I could always use the 4mm on the rear boot wall if it was too inflexible to get inside the doors. I added the layer to the door card because they mention it in the BSW videos to stop the door speaker making the door card vibrate.

If I was placing the order again, I wouldn't bother with the 4mm as the 20-sheet pack of 2mm is enough do both doors and cards
 
pauljb1 said:
So does the 6 speaker set up not have any speakers in the door?

Does it make that much of a difference o he overall sound?

Any chance you could put up a drawing of the wiring? I could see where you soldered and also not sure why at that point? Is it the same point that the 8 speaker set up runs the speakers from?
Click to expand...

No the basic 6-speaker setup has 2 x footwell woofers, 2 x behind-seats mids and 2 x door triangle tweeters. The addition of the door speaker makes the sound richer & 'fuller', it's still not an audiophile setup by any stretch of the imagination, but it's a worthwhile improvement for the cost and time involved - just adding the speakers would take about an hour per side and the speakers I used were about £45 inc delivery

The wiring is very simple, there are two wires that run from the loom to the door tweeter, you need to splice a wire into each of those and connect the wires to the two terminals on the new door speaker. I don't know where the upgraded versions of the stereo take the door feed from but, as they have amplifiers the wiring will be completely different.

As I said earlier, I soldered in where I did because I could take the tweeter triangle indoors and sit down and do the soldering but, in hindsight, I wouldn't do it that way again as it's a bit too fiddly. The two tweeter wires run from the loom to the underside of the blue car loom connector in the final picture, I'd connect into those wires a bit further down in the door as I could then crimp on bullet connectors and use heatshrink over them.
 
PerryGunn said:
T2FFN said:
Well with the sound my window made tonight, I think I may be opening the door to replace the regulator soon, so I'll do this at the same time. :(

Is there any reason you used 4mm and 2mm rather than just one thickness all around? Would it be better or worse to use 4mm for all areas? Applying the stiff to the back of the door card will add weight and some sound deadening to the door I'm sure (as intended) but isn't it better to apply more to the door skin metal? (If I had lots spare I would add everywhere, such as boot floor etc)
Click to expand...
No reason at all - as I hadn't worked with Silent Coat before, I wasn't sure what it was like or how flexible it was so I ordered both thinking that I could always use the 4mm on the rear boot wall if it was too inflexible to get inside the doors. I added the layer to the door card because they mention it in the BSW videos to stop the door speaker making the door card vibrate.

If I was placing the order again, I wouldn't bother with the 4mm as the 20-sheet pack of 2mm is enough do both doors and cards
Click to expand...

Spot on, i'll do that. Thanks

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
 
Cheers

For 45 quid plus the bit for the sound proofing you can't go wrong. Like u said already or maybe someone else, some of us have got to the stage with are hearing that we won't e able to tell the differnece.

Either way think I might give this a go at some point. Thanks
 
I did this 6 speaker upgrade 2 weeks ago and recommend it the sound difference
from the sound deadening is like night and day its now a very dull thud when closing the door
and not the tin sound like before. I also like Perry said cut the tweeter wire and soldered
the new wire for the new door speaker but scotch lock would also work,



I used a replacement speaker from a high end Jaguar as with a small mod fitted perfect ( if there good enough for a 100k+ jag there fin for my Z4



I also changed the rear speakers for this Jag speaker and the sound difference is more than worth a couple
of hours messing about to change them.

If you are worried about damaging your door card taking off this how to video will help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Djgcv-VpCW8

If anyone wants a set of these speakers i have a couple of sets i could also crimp the speaker connections
to a length of speaker cable so all you need to do is connect to the tweeter wire and your all done.
PM me if you interested

 
To make like easier when i did mine i used 2 way JL components and put the tweeter in the door and simply disconnected the stock tweeter as i found this sounded better with the reduced seperation from the main footwell speaker.
 
un1eash said:
To make like easier when i did mine i used 2 way JL components and put the tweeter in the door and simply disconnected the stock tweeter as i found this sounded better with the reduced seperation from the main footwell speaker.
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did you feel there was a lot of separation?

I've currently (albeit crudely with the help of a tape measure) done some time alignment and don't feel that there is a great deal of separation.

I like the idea of moving the tweeter lower but how drastically has doing this lowered the sound stage?
 
I tested it in both positions and just found it sounded better with it lower down in the door. I ran the stock rears and let the PXA-H100 alpine processor sort the rest out.
 
PerryGunn said:
The wiring is very simple, there are two wires that run from the loom to the door tweeter, you need to splice a wire into each of those and connect the wires to the two terminals on the new door speaker.
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I'm partway through doing the same job myself. I have soldered splices into the tweeter feed below the blue plug, but don't know how to ensure that the new door speakers (I have gone for the BMW speakers as they were specifically designed to work with the resonance volume of the door) are wired in phase rather than out of phase. The new BMW door speakers have no markings whatsoever on them, so I don't know which is the +ve and which is the -ve terminal. Any thoughts?
 
ZedFourM said:
PerryGunn said:
The wiring is very simple, there are two wires that run from the loom to the door tweeter, you need to splice a wire into each of those and connect the wires to the two terminals on the new door speaker.
Click to expand...
I'm partway through doing the same job myself. I have soldered splices into the tweeter feed below the blue plug, but don't know how to ensure that the new door speakers (I have gone for the BMW speakers as they were specifically designed to work with the resonance volume of the door) are wired in phase rather than out of phase. The new BMW door speakers have no markings whatsoever on them, so I don't know which is the +ve and which is the -ve terminal. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
The speakers that I used had different coloured wires running from the terminals to indicate +/-

If you haven't any other clue, just try fitting them each way round, it's a bit more buggering about but you should be able to hear which way is in phase as one way will sound appreciably better
 
I soundproofed the passenger door, doorcard and boot floor today. Drivers side can wait until I get the new window regulator/cables and do the job in one go.

I also did the inside of the tweeter pod, A-pillar plastics and the top cross piece, hoping to reduce some vibrations, rattle and what not.

The difference in the door is night and day. Closes with a nice solid thud. To all those that think it won't make much difference, you're wrong and it makes a massive difference!

I did notice that a lot of the plastic clips on the door card were broken before starting the job so I'll order all new ones and replace them all next weekend for a more snug fit. :thumbsup:

I used 8 sheets (of a 20 sheet pack) of the 2mm silent coat on one door and doorcard. 2 sheets on the boot floor next to the battery, inside various plastic etc, leaving another 10 sheets for the drivers door that will get all 10 to make sure its solid!
 
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