SORN virgin

Worcester_spoon

Senior member
 Basingstoke, Hampshire
First time ever I'll be taking the zed off the road for the winter months. Just don't use it enough to warrant the short journey abuse in the cold it will get if I keep using it, so it's going in the garage.

As it's my first time :D I plan on doing the following, but would welcome any feedback from those with more experience

1) wash, polish, wax just before going in the garage
2) roof up, handbrake off, in gear
3) battery on constant trickle charge (any recommendations on a charger as concerned the charge will get hot it on perm trickle charge so want quality) OR
4) fire it up every couple of weeks and 1 day battery charge each month

The garage is cool, dry and well vented, car will remain insured (for the sake of £70 over the 4 months it's off the road, I'd rather have the piece of mind).

That's about it I think.
 
:thumbsup: Inflate the tryes a little higher than normal - some say 50psi, to avoid flat spotting
:thumbsup: Fill the fuel tank, they used to say but i dont think its as important with plastic tanks as they dont rust.
:thumbsup: Bung the exhuast up to keep the mice out ( depending on where its stored)
:thumbsup: Put a dust cover over it, but I leave the windows open about 1cm

I was told to leave the handbrake on lightly as the cable is better taught than loose. (obviously not too tight)
 
Don't fire it up, leave it alone until you need to use it. Firing it up will result in condensation building up.

Do what Number5 says and have it connected to a battery conditioner 24/7, not a charger.

And don't SORN until the last day of the month, as you can't post date it.
 
I would put a dehumidifier in there as well, even if your garage is well ventilated. A couple of these in the main cabin and one in the boot would do it,

For trickle chargers, its got to be a C Tech - mine is the MSX5 (link)
 
Number5 said:
I was told to leave the handbrake on lightly as the cable is better taught than loose. (obviously not too tight)

Interesting comment on the hand brake Alan. Past 5 years I have always left mine completely off, when the car is in the garage. When I first had the car I tried loosely on and the brakes would some times stick when I came to drive off. Think it was more me washing the car, before putting it in the garage, than anything else. Any way I leave the hand brake completely off these days and have had no problems since. :)
 
Also, store it with the hood up, to prevent the folds from forming and cracking
I always leave mine unlocked too as I figure the alarm will drain the battery quicker. (Its in a locked & alarmed garage)
 
If you wash and wax before storage give it a good hot run to dry out brakes and the underside before putting it to bed. Don't keep starting up, invest in a c-tek and think carefully before leaving the handbrake on, at all. Appreciating the advice re keeping a bit of tension on but I had handbrake shoes bind on (not BMW) and this is a bit of a problem in a tight garage with limited room to easily remove wheels to get at the buggers!
 
I would liken it to winterizing a boat.

Apart from the stuff mentioned you should do an oil and filter change before tucking the car away. This ensures that any acids and crap that builds up in used oil, is gone and can't start to cause problems with all the metal parts of the engine. New oil will keep everything preserved until next spring.

You could use a fuel stabilizer in the tank. On a boat, the prescribed wisdom is to fill the tank with new fuel and add a stabilizer.

Not sure with a car but on a boat we would use fogging oil. Do some research to see whether that would be beneficial in a car engine.

You do realize, that the first sunny day in December or January, you'll be wanting to get the car out an go for a spin :driving:
 
As someone who's car spends most of the year in the garage... :oops:

In addition to the other recommendations re: over-inflating tyres, CTEK etc.

- A soft cotton, breathable cover stops the normal accumulation of garage dust & debris settling on the paint
- Apply leather conditioner
- Full fuel tank
- I always leave the handbrake off - the shoes can bind easily even if completely dry
- Even with increased tyre pressure, I push the car forward about a foot every few weeks (I can move it backwards & forwards about 3 feet so, once it's as far forward as it can go, on the next move, I push it back to the start position
 
And hover the spiders out when you get in the next time :oops:

I moved the Golf out after the winter and I was covered in spider webs from the inside of the car :o
 
Am I the only one who thinks all of this talk of over-inflating tyres and changing fluids is excessive for a modern car in a largely temperate climate?
After all, it's only going away for 2-3mths, not years!

In your position, I'd disconnect the battery, leave the handbrake off and chuck a couple of dehumidifiers (as linked above) in, and that would be absolutely fine.
No need to go OTT with laying up a 10yr old car for a few months.
 
DaveP said:
Am I the only one who thinks all of this talk of over-inflating tyres and changing fluids is excessive for a modern car in a largely temperate climate?
After all, it's only going away for 2-3mths, not years!

In your position, I'd disconnect the battery, leave the handbrake off and chuck a couple of dehumidifiers (as linked above) in, and that would be absolutely fine.
No need to go OTT with laying up a 10yr old car for a few months.

I wouldn't disconnect the battery - IIRC these cars can revert to transport mode which is fixable through a dealer visit (and subsequent emptying of wallet)
 
DaveP said:
Am I the only one who thinks all of this talk of over-inflating tyres and changing fluids is excessive for a modern car in a largely temperate climate?
After all, it's only going away for 2-3mths, not years!

In your position, I'd disconnect the battery, leave the handbrake off and chuck a couple of dehumidifiers (as linked above) in, and that would be absolutely fine.
No need to go OTT with laying up a 10yr old car for a few months.

Totally agree. For parking up for a few months, what you mention is all you need. If I were garaging for a year then many of the listed things are worth doing.
If you have a proper Ctec type battery conditioner (not simple charger or trickle charger) connect it, rather than disconnect.
 
When I stored my summer cars in my own garage, I used to start them up every two weeks or so and run until operating temperature was reached. Also, I would move the car back and forth. The cars always survived this, but now that I store the BMW at another storage location, I do the following, including for the Mazda MX-5 Miata which remains in the garage: Tire pressures around 45 psi, full fuel tank of premium grade with fuel stabilizer added, mothballs in engine bay, anti-static dryer sheets in boot, cabin, and engine bay; roof up, trickle charger plugged in, car cover in place. In my own garage, I also distribute a few mouse traps near the car as I live in the country and small rodents are a fact of life. Last year, I put the summer cars away on Nov.25 and recovered them on April 01, without touching them in the meantime. Both started at first turn as if they had been running moments before, confirming that use of a trickle charger is the preferred method. Running the engine briefly only contributes to condensation problems, I think.
David
 
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