Worth also mentioning that the units for Xenon or Halogen headlight cars will be different. The Xenon ones don't have the beam height adjust wheel as they are automatic.
SOLVED! - It's full on dip
- Thread starter Roberltd2
- Start date
Thanks Spriteracer for two helpful pieces of advice. I've never been sure of the headlight set up except to say they're pretty abysmal on wet roads + dark nights. Also noticed that they level up on switching on and have the height adjust wheel, so I guess both dip and full are halogens.
I've just fired up my Proscan OBDII reader for the first time - I bought it about two years ago - and not found any useful info on it, it's probably better at engine diagnostics, but it seems to work ok so that's good to know.
It would be really useful to run a test on the LCM.
It would be really useful to run a test on the LCM.
Roberltd2 said:
Check your LCM part number on Realoem & make sure you get a compatible one as said above. Some have been superceded (mine was) but Realoem will tell you if it can be fitted retrospectively (here's the link to my Z4's LCM https://www.realoem.com/bmw/en/showparts?id=BT52-EUR-07-2003-E85-BMW-Z4_30i&diagId=61_1681). Then just google the part number i.e. "BMW 695397xxx".
My replacement cost £70 on fleabay back in June this year. The other spare I also bought on ebay was only £45 so that should give you some idea of cost. I couldn't find much outside of ebay but Quarry Motors is a good shout.
Thanks Zulu4.
I eventually managed to get hold of my mechanic who told me he was about to finish work (it was about 4.00pm by then) and not only that, but he was about to start on a week's holiday and wouldn't be back at work till the 23rd of August. He did think though that I was looking in the right direction and that substituting a s/h item would be a good move. I then phoned a friend who has lent me his Foxwell NT510 Multi-System Scanner which he bought for his 320D but has never used it, so I'll read up on that this evening and hook it up to the car tomorrow.
Also thinking that as there isn't any obvious corrosion on the main LCM board and no issues with the indicators, maybe I should try and find a switch module and try that first as it looks as if it might be detachable from the main LCM board?
I eventually managed to get hold of my mechanic who told me he was about to finish work (it was about 4.00pm by then) and not only that, but he was about to start on a week's holiday and wouldn't be back at work till the 23rd of August. He did think though that I was looking in the right direction and that substituting a s/h item would be a good move. I then phoned a friend who has lent me his Foxwell NT510 Multi-System Scanner which he bought for his 320D but has never used it, so I'll read up on that this evening and hook it up to the car tomorrow.
Also thinking that as there isn't any obvious corrosion on the main LCM board and no issues with the indicators, maybe I should try and find a switch module and try that first as it looks as if it might be detachable from the main LCM board?
Roberltd2 said:
It was a "Buy it Now" for £45 or "Make an Offer". So I made an offer for £40 .....and it was accepted! Free postage too.
I think that all things considered it was well worth a punt, and if it doesn't solve the lighting problems it might at least go some way to eliminating some of the causes.
Good price that Robert. No reason not to just swap the whole unit initially just to see if it cures the fault.
My initial search had been for "BMW Z4 LCM" which turned up just the one item I mentioned earlier on offer for £100. It was only when I thought about buying just the switch unit and typed in "BMW Z4 light switch" that resulted in seven or eight LCMs showing up, including the one which I ended up buying.
Delivery should be Friday or Saturday next.
Delivery should be Friday or Saturday next.
Hi Dave,
Did you for any reason disconnect the orange connector at the end of the ribbon cable? Just thinking that if it's easy enough to disconnect, I can try substituting the switch module first so that if that works, there will hopefully not be any need to recode the LCM.
The replacement LCM has been posted so with a bit of luck it'll be with me Wednesday or Thursday. If that doesn't work, the same ebayer is selling "Bmw Z4 Clock Spring And Controls " which is the wiper / dip /full lever assembly, so that might have to be my next move....hope not.
Did you for any reason disconnect the orange connector at the end of the ribbon cable? Just thinking that if it's easy enough to disconnect, I can try substituting the switch module first so that if that works, there will hopefully not be any need to recode the LCM.
The replacement LCM has been posted so with a bit of luck it'll be with me Wednesday or Thursday. If that doesn't work, the same ebayer is selling "Bmw Z4 Clock Spring And Controls " which is the wiper / dip /full lever assembly, so that might have to be my next move....hope not.
Hi Robert,
No I never attempted to remove that connector, I just swapped the whole unit. There's no harm in trying the new LCM first. It will probably put the tamper dot on the dash but that will go out again when you put the original one back in. At least you'll know if it's the LCM or not. I've just looked at my spare & it looks like that orange connector is soldered to the board. It doesn't look that easy to remove imo. Good luck with it
.
No I never attempted to remove that connector, I just swapped the whole unit. There's no harm in trying the new LCM first. It will probably put the tamper dot on the dash but that will go out again when you put the original one back in. At least you'll know if it's the LCM or not. I've just looked at my spare & it looks like that orange connector is soldered to the board. It doesn't look that easy to remove imo. Good luck with it
.I have similar problems with LCM - upon starting the car I never get low beams. Switch is functional, but high beams are always on until some time, then the lights work fine. My mechanic took out the LCM and found out the burnt resistor. Replaced it, but no luck. So I have ordered the new LCM, still waiting for it. In the meantime I looked inside too and with a special angle of light there can be seen some IC burnt too! It is on the other side of board, but hardly visible. So I have ordered also the IC (VNQ830) and will try to replace it as well.
So maybe it is worth trying to see if all ICs are ok in your LCM.
So maybe it is worth trying to see if all ICs are ok in your LCM.
Attachments
You've done well to spot those defects, let's hope it leads to fixing your lights.
I've tried the replacement LCM which I received today and I'm gutted to report that there is no difference to how things were before. So, either both LCM have the same fault which I find hard to believe, and the boards look ok, or else the fault lies somewhere else which I think would be more lightly.
I borrowed a scanner and got a whole load of results off that before I put the "new" one in, so I'll get those typed up in a while. First, I'll go and put the old unit back in before it gets dark so that at least the milage readings will match. B***er :x
I've tried the replacement LCM which I received today and I'm gutted to report that there is no difference to how things were before. So, either both LCM have the same fault which I find hard to believe, and the boards look ok, or else the fault lies somewhere else which I think would be more lightly.
I borrowed a scanner and got a whole load of results off that before I put the "new" one in, so I'll get those typed up in a while. First, I'll go and put the old unit back in before it gets dark so that at least the milage readings will match. B***er :x
Oh no :headbang: , gutted for you Robert. Hopefully the codes will give you a clue. The only other thing I can think would be a faulty indicator stalk.
I think that that could be the next port of call Dave, the same guy who sold me the LCM also had the column assembly for sale so I'm hoping that will be from the same near-number batch as mine.
Battery is is at 12.7 V so that's ok I would think.
I've put the old one back in for now.
I'll write out the fault diagnostics in a bit.
Battery is is at 12.7 V so that's ok I would think.
I've put the old one back in for now.
I'll write out the fault diagnostics in a bit.
Before trying out the ebay LCM, I plugged in the Foxwell scanner which a friend of mine had lent me. I did an auto-scan on it and these are the faults it came up with:
1) EWS Vehicle immobiliser
[OF] Voltage supply EWS3 control module
SZM switching centre, centre console
2) SZM undervoltage, seat heating
7) LSZ Light switch Centre II
[14] LSZ2: Wire, brake-light switch, open circuit
[2A] LSZ2: HVAC potentiometer faulty
[33] LSZ2: Sidelight, front right, faulty
[38] LSZ2: Sidelight, front left, faulty
[41] LSZ2: Dipped beam, right, faulty
[42] LSZ2: Dipped beam, left, faulty
9) RAD Radio
[2] Fault in aerial power supply
[3] CD drive: deactivation, overtemperature
12) ZKE Central Body Electronics
[E] GM Anti-trap protection for power window unit, front, passenger side
[76] GM Spray-nozzle heater, right: open circuit
[D] GM Anti-trap protection for power window unit, front, driver's side
[33] GM Wipers: interlock active
[81] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, door contact, front, driver's side
[8A] GM Anti-theft alarm memory,interior movement detector, front
[88] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, engine - bonnet / hood contact
[85] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, rear-lid
[80] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, terminal R
[90] Battery Voltage: open circuit
I'm not sure how many of these have any bearing on the lighting issues (not all of them I hope!). Also some of them may have been thrown up as a result of the battery being disconnected (anti trap protection). Others I haven't a clue about - GM spray nozzle heater?
Being as the LCM has been ruled out as a suspect (for now), I was kind of hoping that one of these fault codes might indicate something to do with the steering column controls as Oldgitdave suggested.....
Should I buy the steering column assembly off the LCM seller anyway I wonder?
1) EWS Vehicle immobiliser
[OF] Voltage supply EWS3 control module
SZM switching centre, centre console
2) SZM undervoltage, seat heating
7) LSZ Light switch Centre II
[14] LSZ2: Wire, brake-light switch, open circuit
[2A] LSZ2: HVAC potentiometer faulty
[33] LSZ2: Sidelight, front right, faulty
[38] LSZ2: Sidelight, front left, faulty
[41] LSZ2: Dipped beam, right, faulty
[42] LSZ2: Dipped beam, left, faulty
9) RAD Radio
[2] Fault in aerial power supply
[3] CD drive: deactivation, overtemperature
12) ZKE Central Body Electronics
[E] GM Anti-trap protection for power window unit, front, passenger side
[76] GM Spray-nozzle heater, right: open circuit
[D] GM Anti-trap protection for power window unit, front, driver's side
[33] GM Wipers: interlock active
[81] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, door contact, front, driver's side
[8A] GM Anti-theft alarm memory,interior movement detector, front
[88] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, engine - bonnet / hood contact
[85] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, rear-lid
[80] GM Anti-theft alarm memory, terminal R
[90] Battery Voltage: open circuit
I'm not sure how many of these have any bearing on the lighting issues (not all of them I hope!). Also some of them may have been thrown up as a result of the battery being disconnected (anti trap protection). Others I haven't a clue about - GM spray nozzle heater?
Being as the LCM has been ruled out as a suspect (for now), I was kind of hoping that one of these fault codes might indicate something to do with the steering column controls as Oldgitdave suggested.....
Should I buy the steering column assembly off the LCM seller anyway I wonder?
