Snapped locking wheel nut key

V8rumbler

Member
I know from internet searches I am not the only poor sod who has had this problem . Any advice ( from experience) of getting the broken bit out or removing the stud with it in place .
It Is off a rear wheel do slightly harder to access .
I also include a pic of the sheared locking wheel nut & it’s replacement
 

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If you've got a stick (not a mig) welder then welding a bolt or square / hex bar onto the remains and turning that will work. I've done it before but no on a Zed.... but you need to be able to reach into the hole and weld. Mig is too big and gas gets other bits too hot.
 
Once you have taken the broken bit out ,go to a bmw dealer they have a master set which will identify the correct replacement.A 3mm drill bit and a small chisel should get the broken bit out.When you have the new key ,insert it in the wheel stud and give it a good hit with a hammer to shock it
 
Just count the number of splines on the one on the other side to determine which master you need - that's the only difference between them all. Then just buy on Ebay for about a fiver. Simples.

locking wheel nut_16_CODE 32SW17MM 1 36136765545.jpg
 
ph001 said:
Just count the number of splines on the one on the other side to determine which master you need - that's the only difference between them all. Then just buy on Ebay for about a fiver. Simples.

locking wheel nut_16_CODE 32SW17MM 1 36136765545.jpg
i have ordered one on eBay . My first issue is getting the old one out . My second issue is how stupidly tight/rusted it is . So I have an feeling the next one may go the the same way . The normal studs on the other rear wheel will not come off with an electric impact driver & were bending the wheel brace .
 
Could you drill a small hole into it for a self tapper and pull it out using said self tapping screw?

What sort of impact are you using? Impact will be the best way to get them off without damage. You might just need a meatier tool :P

I assume the tyre shop has gone mad and tightened them to 3 million Newton metres?
 
Crazy Harry has the right idea. If you can't get a weld stick down the side to a nut you could use a cheap socket, Dremel the chrome off the inside edge and use a 6010 or 6011 rod (dependent on Hardware)to weld the socket from the inside. Then use a breaker bar to undo.
 
once you do get it off, simple job to get 4 actual bolts and ditch all the locking wheel nuts - far more hassle than they're worth given that any crims can get the keys off ebay for £25.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PC-BMW-MASTER-LOCKING-WHEEL-NUT-SOCKET-SPLINE-TAMPER-PROOF-REMOVAL-KEY-SET/174046956335?hash=item288601cb2f:g:qdMAAOSwOFddQdXv
 
brillomaster said:
once you do get it off, simple job to get 4 actual bolts and ditch all the locking wheel nuts - far more hassle than they're worth given that any crims can get the keys off ebay for £25.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PC-BMW-MASTER-LOCKING-WHEEL-NUT-SOCKET-SPLINE-TAMPER-PROOF-REMOVAL-KEY-SET/174046956335?hash=item288601cb2f:g:qdMAAOSwOFddQdXv
i have the studs ready to go :- all I need is for it to stop raining ,the new locking wheel key to be delivered & a whole lot of luck
 
V8rumbler said:
ph001 said:
Since the head has sheared off, shouldn’t the wheel just come off anyway?

Only the locking wheel nut has sheared . The stud is still there

So if you remove the other 4 bolts? The wheel should come off?
Having better access will help get the stud off without damaging the alloy? Assuming I've interpreted the photo correctly :?
 
kis said:
V8rumbler said:
ph001 said:
Since the head has sheared off, shouldn’t the wheel just come off anyway?

Only the locking wheel nut has sheared . The stud is still there

So if you remove the other 4 bolts? The wheel should come off?
Having better access will help get the stud off without damaging the alloy? Assuming I've interpreted the photo correctly :?
sorry I am not making this clear - the key has snapped - not the stud . The locking stud is still in place with half the key snapped off inside it
 
£13 job done

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Damaged-Bolt-and-Lug-Nut-Turbo-Socket-Set-Extractor-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Remover/402234766606?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5da70f750e:g:b5kAAOSwQnFdJXDv&enc=AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkTboA95HSvGa1O5UmCCGJLlvrQy%2BKe47qgDY9J9pbdROYr%2FuIRC%2FopxEOJEoe4T3vIxkqU%2BE4RbQScEPejAGmVSJ2LReYoZ2NlwVe7uGs4DTVqeCDiUZU00VdOc8NqSDOy%2Fykhxql7w1OKCMIKGaw7z7S3cBE9ktEPl0Ng2Zo9xgGcAA76%2Bm3qYUiGkrAB%2B1fCNTbxM%2F4Tae5P3WqBEpS6rpQGC093Ec842sNJsOEsMtb8sa7MtDhMy3o9sGwyP6QliiGCR0my%2BkZAq7USWooQw0e20Fwo9SDXGFDLn4hnCQPZxYk9%2BaryVv6PDGZkJ4y2J6%2BGGFt0qIt7HFNJNTf9afa11%2F6GxjG8i6BIvIGPQgNClRzUTU6G3ENIziZY4f%2FhN85t0FspBMaatdkwwWkZgr6rno7uUNW7Zu2052aHwu8axztr1ZB3QL6rmWkuAWQD93QSDRQlnfHR5M5R4xRx1H9UrWgjDXPJbmy1BTcp%2BP6g6dceJ1AQeb8uXaJaqTIsSjnGgHQDTWuXkbNubP%2B8YwqzNvr%2BwqMgsyNFw%2FA7PzVIWNFFUbowO5Ygopy66bBYZ9XS6ar%2F5uelYFNiLEXYk89X34lLDhHA0rU%2Fc5TED7r%2BdM7tgdEFanmNmCIxrpxinqX%2BZzsfecD%2BPLl674rVIZfURd8%2BVBGKfDFrrQ%2FUJ3%2B0uHAOyCh4hvRILA7NC%2BoipTIcyvqXXQwee%2FV2%2FM5yeDndLyl%2BLTL4gI5CRL7Ntt3RsmByiTtHHDyqvZN9clRhXljTVW0lj8e0HA1K2yAYQ%3D%3D&checksum=4022347666069fc22208caa1408aaa6a9836011698e4
 
Other option would be to drill and tap the broken bit and remove it with a slide hammer. You'd still have to reomve the bolt, but you might have more luck with the replacement key.
 
Ah, I get it now. It was the "only the locking wheel nut has sheared" bit that confused me. It's actually just the key that has sheared off inside the wheel nut.

The Ebay kit looks promising.
 
Mister T said:
Other option would be to drill and tap the broken bit and remove it with a slide hammer.

That's the way I would go.
Shouldn't even need a slide hammer. The key only slots in there loosely.
 
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