Snapped locking wheel nut key

[brillomaster]

Other option would be to drill and tap the broken bit and remove it with a slide hammer.

That's the way I would go.
Shouldn't even need a slide hammer. The key only slots in there loosely.

the key should only slot in there loosely, but when spanner monkey airguns it up so bastard tight that its enough to shear the key, i bet whats left in there is stuck fast! the locking wheel nut is probably gonna need 200-300nm of torque to remove it would be my guess, way more than the splines of a locking wheel nut can take. copious amounts of penetrating oil would likely help with whatever you try.

 

[V8rumbler]

Am I the only person who is really confused by the OP's photo ?

this is a photo of the sheared & replacement- that should help

 

[Jfgoldfish]

spanner monkey airguns it up so bastard tight

:rofl:
Fair point!

 

[Zed Baron]

I had one go on my E89, when I eventually got it off I binned the lot and replaced them with standard wheel nuts. More hassle than they are worth.

 

[brillomaster]

its funny how torque works... if a 90kg man stands on a wheel wrench 0.3metres long, he would apply 265Nm of torque.

when i had a wheel alignment and one of the bolts was rusted solid - that necessitated a grown man basically hanging off a 1metre extension bar = 882Nm of torque. That sheared the bolt.

And once, in an attempt to get a particularly stubborn wheel nut off, i jacked the wrench up and let the weight of the car loosen the nut... 1300kgs car, = 325kgs a corner = 3187N, *0.3 = potentially 956Nm torque.

 

[Bing]

Am I the only person who is really confused by the OP's photo ?

this is a photo of the sheared & replacement- that should help

It does. For some reason my eyes could not see the actual wheel bolt in there - it looks something is sheared off in the hub. I guess I need new glasses...

 

[Andrew Sheldon]

Maybe try and drill it out. I cant make out if your second pic is that of the stud head stuck in the wheel. If so it has a nice hole in the centre allowing precise drilling. You only need to drill down to where the stud enters the hub then you can get the wheel off. Removing the remainder if the stud may be tricky but you can get reverse thread taps to get the rest out. Good luck, it must be a nightmare when this sort of thing happens. Btw, and this is just me and I don't recommend it, I never tighten those locking nuts up very tightly just in case this happens.

 

[V8rumbler]

Maybe try and drill it out. I cant make out if your second pic is that of the stud head stuck in the wheel. If so it has a nice hole in the centre allowing precise drilling. You only need to drill down to where the stud enters the hub then you can get the wheel off. Removing the remainder if the stud may be tricky but you can get reverse thread taps to get the rest out. Good luck, it must be a nightmare when this sort of thing happens. Btw, and this is just me and I don't recommend it, I never tighten those locking nuts up very tightly just in case this happens.

that is not a hole in the middle - it is a a raised piece as the locking wheel nut jets are hollow in the middle ( further weakening them ) .
I will not be refitting the locking studs when all this is over

 

[kis]

Am I the only person who is really confused by the OP's photo ?

this is a photo of the sheared & replacement- that should help

It does. For some reason my eyes could not see the actual wheel bolt in there - it looks something is sheared off in the hub. I guess I need new glasses...

Same as me then! :rofl: I think because it sheared in a quite perfect cone shape didn’t help!

 

[Bombardino]

I had one go on my E89, when I eventually got it off I binned the lot and replaced them with standard wheel nuts. More hassle than they are worth.

Couldn’t agree more, a complete waste of time.