Small roof issue (surprise surprise)
- Thread starter Pondy
- Start date
So I have been having various roof problems over the last couple of months. Initially the roof retracting seemed to be 'sticky' and was juddering as it retracted into the boot. This was quickly followed by the roof warning symbol flashing and 'bonging' intermittently. I thought it might have been a dodgy battery as the original was still on (2012 2.0). Replaced this (cost £150 for the new battery) but the flashing and 'bonging' continued when it felt like it.
Two weeks ago the roof retracted but the windows did not close and stayed down. Put the roof up and the rear window shell stuck on top of the roof shell with the boot lid up. Tried putting the roof up and down several times. Eventually managed to get the roof up and decided to get someone to look at it.
The LH microswitch, rear module closed was buggered (part number 54377227397). The switch itself was £35 and I paid a total, including the part, of £440 to a local guy who did the fault finding. Seemed reasonable to me.
Apparently the roof fault did not throw up any fault codes either as it was intermittent.
Hope this helps someone.
Two weeks ago the roof retracted but the windows did not close and stayed down. Put the roof up and the rear window shell stuck on top of the roof shell with the boot lid up. Tried putting the roof up and down several times. Eventually managed to get the roof up and decided to get someone to look at it.
The LH microswitch, rear module closed was buggered (part number 54377227397). The switch itself was £35 and I paid a total, including the part, of £440 to a local guy who did the fault finding. Seemed reasonable to me.
Apparently the roof fault did not throw up any fault codes either as it was intermittent.
Hope this helps someone.
At the summit of the picturesque fens
So I finally got around to changing the boot (trunk) lock microswitches today, as the weather was nice.
Thanks to RobbieZ4 and 304fp for the information on how to do it.
It turns out that the nearside (left) switch was the problem but changed them both. I started with the offside (right) first so was not to know.
When finished, I tested both old switches with a continuity meter to see what the situation was. As one of the switches was OK, it turns out that these switches are "momentary"; normally closed, then momentarily opened by the switch breaking, then making again.
I found the failed switch and took it apart (with the help of a knife and a screwdriver). There was no corrosion either on the contacts, or on the (tiny) PCB. I think it was a broken internal contact. The knackered switch had a 2014 date on it and the other had a 2015 date. My car was built in March 2013, so both had been replaced.
Might be interesting for someone.
BTW all four M3 machine screws came out easily with the correct size phillips head screwdriver, but because they had been replaced before they didn't have any thread lock on them (they do now).
Thanks to RobbieZ4 and 304fp for the information on how to do it.
It turns out that the nearside (left) switch was the problem but changed them both. I started with the offside (right) first so was not to know.
When finished, I tested both old switches with a continuity meter to see what the situation was. As one of the switches was OK, it turns out that these switches are "momentary"; normally closed, then momentarily opened by the switch breaking, then making again.
I found the failed switch and took it apart (with the help of a knife and a screwdriver). There was no corrosion either on the contacts, or on the (tiny) PCB. I think it was a broken internal contact. The knackered switch had a 2014 date on it and the other had a 2015 date. My car was built in March 2013, so both had been replaced.
Might be interesting for someone.
BTW all four M3 machine screws came out easily with the correct size phillips head screwdriver, but because they had been replaced before they didn't have any thread lock on them (they do now).
SV8Predator
Member
Pondrew said:
They must have been replaced when they replaced the switch before.
The screws on mine just unscrewed so I used them again. I'm quite sure they were the original Torx-headed screws.
Not only. Important to read the MS passage.warmasice said:
warmasice said:
Well, there are some traps to fight with:buying a nail iron https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1861524#p1861524, marking the exact positions of the 2x 3 nuts around their heads with a white Edding pen, placing a broomstick to support the trunk lid, drilling out the 4 small screws, unpinning the wires from the new plugs as it doesn't fit on your "old" hydraulic harness, re-pinning the new switches into the old original 2-pole plug housings, re-adjusting the units as last step.
Good luck.
It does seem a bit daunting but it is very simple, honest.warmasice said:
If your car is later than 2012 (I think) the new switches will plug straight in. If it is earlier then tell the dealer you order them from and they will supply an adapter which means no soldering.
The only thing you can really do 'wrong' is put the whole thing out of alignment when you loosen the bolts for access; that is where the marker pen is important.
I was lucky with mine and all screws came out easily and I re-used them with a smear of thread lock. Beware, though, they are fricking tiny and easily lost.
Correct, the plug story only hits E89 built before March/April 2012.
AFAIK exact these expensive adapter have one bigger "new" plug as well as open wires to solder on the other end. Not worth to buy, much simpler to crack the new plugs, take the two pins out of it and put it into the old housings. Takes 3 addional minutes instead of another 30-40 bucks.Pondrew said:
RobbiZ4 said:Not only. Important to read the MS passage.warmasice said:
warmasice said:
buying a nail iron https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1861524#p1861524, marking the exact positions of the 2x 3 nuts around their heads with a white Edding pen, placing a broomstick to support the trunk lid, drilling out the 4 small screws, unpinning the wires from the new plugs as it doesn't fit on your "old" hydraulic harness, re-pinning the new switches into the old original 2-pole plug housings, re-adjusting the units as last step.
Good luck.
Thank you. I have a panel clip puller, ordered the m3 5mm bolts, white marker pen.
I know I've asked this on another thread, but are items 4 and 5 the most common micro switches to fail? Shall I order those first?
A couple of questions for those who have changed the boot closed micro switches...
1. How much interior carpeting has to be removed?
2. What is the torque spec for the 3 main nuts holding the assembly in place?
3. Is Loctite used on the three nuts and the microswitch screws?
Thanks
1. How much interior carpeting has to be removed?
2. What is the torque spec for the 3 main nuts holding the assembly in place?
3. Is Loctite used on the three nuts and the microswitch screws?
Thanks
Scottish Borders