Simota Intake will be available in August

pilchardthecat said:
Rough idle, really bad flat spots, stalled almost without fail, back to stock and back to normal.
Sounds exactly like what happens if you disconnect the MAF.
 
exdos said:
mmm-five said:
84mm on air filter side
88mm on throttle side
Thanks for that.

If you can, you need to fit the two mesh screens from your OEM intake in front of the MAF.
If they fit they will definitely be going back on, as I've seen damaged screens before (on e34 M5s), even with completely intact air filters in place.
 
pilchardthecat said:
the bolts go from the filter side, through the trumpet and the gasket into the maf holder thingy which is threaded
Where are the nuts used then?
 
mmm-five said:
pilchardthecat said:
Rough idle, really bad flat spots, stalled almost without fail, back to stock and back to normal.
Sounds exactly like what happens if you disconnect the MAF.

It was nasty, but the MAF was properly connected, and it ran perfectly again when i put it back to stock

Very interested in how you get on with yours.

There is a poster on this board in the US who is getting engine mgt lights with his

"I have one but it is giving me a hard time. When installed the engine runs rough. the engine lags and the surges and then eventually I get a CEL. I re-aligned and cleaned the MAF with no change. I re-installed the oem filter and everything runs proper.... "

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=752464&page=2
 
I've got a spare air-intake from an E46 M3 with the same MAF as used in the Z4MC. I've just measured the internal diameter of the tube in which the MAF sits and it's 88.45mm, which is an area of 6144.5 sq.mm.

mmm-five says that the internal diameter of the pipe in which the MAF sits for the Simota is 84mm, which is an area of 5541.8 sq.mm. That's only 90% of the area of the OEM intake pipe, which makes the Simota restrictive and since the MAF is sited in this restriction, this will affect the calibration of the MAF in the ECU maps. It's therefore no surprise that there are idling problems and also performance will be hurt too.

You should do your own measurements of your OEM air intake and report to the manufacturers.
 
I wonder if there's a difference in the MAFs for different regions?

I.e. one for Japan/US is smaller than a Europen one?

Your 88.45mm is very close to the 88mm I measured for the throttle side of the MAF housing, so they obviously know there's a difference. wonder if they've just assumed it would be fine.

I'll try to accelerate my fitting schedule to see if it's the same on mine - if it is it's going back, and I'll order a Gruppe-M direct, like I should have done in the first place :headbang:
 
mmm-five said:
I wonder if there's a difference in the MAFs for different regions?

I.e. one for Japan/US is smaller than a Europen one?

Your 88.45mm is very close to the 88mm I measured for the throttle side of the MAF housing, so they obviously know there's a difference. wonder if they've just assumed it would be fine.

I'll try to accelerate my fitting schedule to see if it's the same on mine - if it is it's going back, and I'll order a Gruppe-M direct, like I should have done in the first place :headbang:

The MAF is part number: 13 62 7 839 014 and it's the same for USA and Europe. The same MAF is used in several different BMW models, including the E63 (M6) in which there are twin air-intakes with two MAFs: one for each intake. In the M6 it would be critical that the intake pipes in which the MAFs are sited are identical for the sake of calibration.

As the maths shows, a small difference in diameter has a big effect, so it's crucial that any aftermarket intake system should have precisely the same diameter of pipe where the MAF is sited to preserve the calibration in the ECU.

If you just want more noise, just cut out a bigger hole at the front of the OEM air intake so that the air-filter box doesn't seal with the inlet tube from the front. Save yourself £800! Buy another air-filter box if you want to keep yours OEM as a spare.

UPDATE: I've just measured my spare Z4M air-intake and it is essentially the same dimensions as the E46M3 intake (within tolerances of 1mm).
 
Trial-fitted mine this afternoon, but took it off again for a week or so until my new (modified) insurance comes through.

It went on without any difficulty, and the (cold) idle was no different between the standard and Simota intakes.

I also noticed that the standard air box had 2 of the 5 catches loose - and after opening it fully I found out why. The filter hadn't been put in straight, so the edges were being crimped between the edges of the air box - effectively slicing the rubber edge off by about 1cm. It was this obstruction that was causing the tight fit and inability to close the last 2 catches. So much for dealer servicing :headbang:

That 5th catch between the airbox/intake manifold & dipstick is a PITA to get to.

Standard
[youtube]r2ID-9aCvvw[/youtube]

Simota
[youtube]laUPl6p-PQE[/youtube]

Will try to get some drive-by clips done once I've done final fitting.
 
pilchardthecat said:
you haven't driven it yet then?
No, and won't be with the Simota on for 2 weeks (insurance), but when I've messed around with MAFs before they've shown issues immediately.

I probably had it running for no more than 5 minutes and it didn't miss once.

Also had a look at the MAF gauze on the inside of the standard airbox, and I can't see a way of removing it without 'breaking' apart the intake trumpet that seems to be attached the the top half of the airbox. Will have a better look when I come to fit it properly.
 
mmm-five said:
pilchardthecat said:
you haven't driven it yet then?
Also had a look at the MAF gauze on the inside of the standard airbox, and I can't see a way of removing it without 'breaking' apart the intake trumpet that seems to be attached the the top half of the airbox. Will have a better look when I come to fit it properly.

To remove the gauze mesh, you need to remove the plastic "trumpet" shroud behind which lies the mesh on the inside of the filter box by undoing one screw on the outside of the box besides the outlet end of the pipe. The screw is some sort of Torx head, so you need the correct bit to undo it.
 
sounds encouraging from the two sound clips. deffinately a lot more grunt!

Just hope it doesnt cause any issues with MAFs and engine lights. would be really disapointing if it does. keep us posted mmm five and i will probably be ordering one in the new year if results are good! 8)
 
exdos said:
As the maths shows, a small difference in diameter has a big effect, so it's crucial that any aftermarket intake system should have precisely the same diameter of pipe where the MAF is sited to preserve the calibration in the ECU.

I also took measurements and came to the same conclusion. It simply cannot and will not work.
 
BMWZ4MC said:
It might settle down with a re map...
It would smooth out the flat spots with a remap, providing you plugged in the new numbers for the revised air velocity to air-volume relationship.... But because the new one is smaller and restrictive by about 10% you would be remapping to a significantly reduced power output
 
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