Show us your…Paint Correction
- Thread starter inkey$
- Start date
By the seaside...
inkey$ said:Thanks for the link.
Thinking about it, I actually got [for free!] a Halfords 240v polisher from forum member Wills back in 2011; completely forgot I had it! Worth a try?
I wouldn't attempt to use something like that for any sort of paint correction - it might be OK for LSP application/buffing but I wouldn't go any further than that.
inkey$ said:
if I could start my "detailing" time again, I wouldn't waste time and money on a DA machine - I hate them.
The rotary machine is far better and nicer to use, as well as (mostly) getting better results with it - and it's not half as dangerous as some people on the internet make out.
If possible, I would suggest to you that you try holding and using as many machines as possible (DA and Rotary) to see how you feel and what feels best for you.
I'm sure if you ask Kelly nicely, he would allow you to pop in and see some machines.
inkey$ said:
Their training is superb... and Kelly is a good guy.
The DA and Rotary machines are different in the way they work, so some people just can't or don't like one or the other...
The vibration from a DA kills me, and after spending 15-20 hours polishing a car... things like that all add up... :wink: :wink:
good value for the lessons learnt...
and look at the pics... paint gauge, de nibber, gloss meter... almost as good as me!
and look at the pics... paint gauge, de nibber, gloss meter... almost as good as me!
markeg said:Fixed a small scratch today on #108
Bit of wet sanding to flatten the area:
Couple of passes of the DA with cutting polish:
The a couple of passes of finishing polish, 2 coats of PB Black hole, and a coat of PB Natty wax later...
Some day I'll get around to removing the orange peel effect... Or pay someone to do it
A good tip when wet sanding it not to go in a circular motion, but in a straight line, see all the little swirls you can see after the first pass with the DA? if you had used a straight motion with the sand paper these are a lot easier to remove with the DA
inkey$ said:
When you wet sand, you're not removing paint (unless you've a very old car with no clearcoat) - don't confuse the paper used with with normal sandpaper, the grit is so fine that all you're doing is taking a very, very thin layer off of the clearcoat.
The polishes are even finer abrasives and, effectively, smooth out the very fine scratches made during wet sanding
Seeing this thread makes me muy emocionado for the detail/correction Nova (R & O) is gonna do for me in a few weeks in exchange for some web design work!
Mostly just gonna be a clean and bring out the best in the paintwork again which is in general excellent anyway, but there's a few little scuffs and scratches I can't wait to see what he can do with!
Mostly just gonna be a clean and bring out the best in the paintwork again which is in general excellent anyway, but there's a few little scuffs and scratches I can't wait to see what he can do with!
inkey$ said:
1) yes, but this could be 1 or 2 grades of paper, I usually start with 2000 grade, then go up to 4000 to finish off ready for polishing.
2) Cutting if required - depends on pad and polish, could be 1, 2 or 3 times
3) May need a refining step, maybe not
4) Finishing step, with finishing pad and polish
If you do the above, then no real need for Black hole, as it is mainly to cover scratches, it has a lot of fillers in it.
5) LSP - wax or sealant, or both (sealant first though).... by machine, by pad, or by hand... and could do 1 layer, 2 or 3...
Lot's of options... and lots of pads and polishes to think about too...
But, remember... POLISH makes the car shine... wax protects all your hard work...
To show my point... this car has been polished (very well) and not an ounce of fillers or wax on it...
