Show us your…Paint Correction

I mostly use the paints4u kit.

http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=6930

clean the stone chip, mix up the paint and laquer then put on in very thin layers to build up.

Then I use my denibber (http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=festool&PN=festool%2dhi%2dtech%2dcarbide%2dde%2dnibber%2ehtml#a497525) to remove any excess back to be in line with the normal paintwork then polish as normal...

:thumbsup:
 
Also - Tom your car looks great. My mrs' fav colour.

Cueball ever considered renting yourself out as a detailer? :D

Does the kit + denibber give as good as new? This is literally dead centre of the bonnet and would be very obvious if at all wrong. I've got armorfend removal and chip repair as tasks to complete as soon as i have a DA polisher.
 
Yeah it can, it depends on the colour of the car too.... Silvers for example are a nightmare to touch up... Darker colours are a bit easier...

The de nibber is expensive, but works really well... You could also try to hole punch a sheet of wet sanding paper and glue it to a pencil tip...

This means you can sand just the painted area...



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I still think the concept of wet sanding paint is scary, i'll have to find a way of carefully testing it so i can see it myself before i believe it :D

I think even with the costs (kit=£15? nibber=£50, polisher=~150 ish) its not a bad option if you're to repair more than once, as paintshops charge that for minor repairs.
 
Wet sanding is really easy, it does seem a bit scary, but as long as you take your time and don't go nuts, it's quite easy to work with.

I have to say though the de nibber is one of the best tools I have purchased...

Obviously I have a paint reader which gets used a lot as well, but the denibber comes in very handy..

IMG_6255Copy_zps385f78ba.jpg

IMG_6254Copy_zpsa7202107.jpg
 
Weird how it's classed as a "tool" too - i mean, it is a wedge of metal basically right? I don't get how it costs so much unless there's some super complex manufacturing procedure involved.
 
jimmybell said:
Weird how it's classed as a "tool" too - i mean, it is a wedge of metal basically right? I don't get how it costs so much unless there's some super complex manufacturing procedure involved.
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There is 'some super complex manufacturing procedure involved' - don't let the simple appearance fool you it's razor-sharp tungsten carbide with a precisely machined curve on it so that, if it's rested on the cord, it will only shave off the above-surface' blob/speck without damaging the surrounding paint/clearcoat

NB As far as the cost goes, it's made by Festool which always adds a minimum of 50% to the cost of any tool :wink:
 
Fixed a small scratch today on #108

Bit of wet sanding to flatten the area:

e9amyhar.jpg


Couple of passes of the DA with cutting polish:

syzenyzy.jpg


The a couple of passes of finishing polish, 2 coats of PB Black hole, and a coat of PB Natty wax later...

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Some day I'll get around to removing the orange peel effect... Or pay someone to do it ;)
 
woah nice job Mark.

Does BMW paint respond well to DA's then? I've got imola red, and i'd probably get the CYC DAS-6 Pro with the megs 105/205 + hexlogic etc set, with the intention of removing armorfend and resolving any difference in the paint quality, and fixing swirls/chips. Then finally my Victoria Concours wax will look at it's best!
 
the cueball said:
I mostly use the paints4u kit.

http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=6930

clean the stone chip, mix up the paint and laquer then put on in very thin layers to build up.

Then I use my denibber (http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=festool&PN=festool%2dhi%2dtech%2dcarbide%2dde%2dnibber%2ehtml#a497525) to remove any excess back to be in line with the normal paintwork then polish as normal...

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

:thumbsup: Just ordered some Imola II for the breadvan as I have a couple of not-too-obvious chips I'd like to sort out. May try that wet and dry hole punch technique too for the denier tool.
 
Always good to have some paint lying about! :rofl:

There is also a technique known as "roadrash" painting... for, well roadrash!

It's basically the same adding the paint and lacquer together, then adding it to the area suffering the rash with a lint free cloth...

Once it's all hardened, then polish off using an old pad to refine back.

really good for the smaller chips/rash and something I'll be doing a bit of with the RS as it's massive arches suffers quite a bit from it.

oh, and +1 on festool pricing! :headbang:
 
Spent a good few hours getting to know my new DA polisher a couple of weeks ago. Just done the bonnet so far!

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Polished.jpg


Just an iPhone pic but you get the idea!
 
jimmybell said:
Does BMW paint respond well to DA's then? I've got imola red, and i'd probably get the CYC DAS-6 Pro with the megs 105/205 + hexlogic etc set, with the intention of removing armorfend and resolving any difference in the paint quality, and fixing swirls/chips. Then finally my Victoria Concours wax will look at it's best!
Click to expand...

I use a meguairs DA (220 model) with the hex logic pads, plus the meguairs 105 and 205 (and some other polishes). The paint does respond well to the DA, but it isn't as easy as I found it on other paints - takes a few more passes to get the desired effect
 
So all these posts make me wonder - do we think its worth me investing in a DA polisher and starter kit before having a go myself? For £140 you can get a CYC DAS-6 setup. Then maybe get it pro detailed at KDS?
 
Can you borrow someone's who's local to you, inks? Then have a go, see how you get on before shelling out.

I find it very therapeutic, and rewarding when all my efforts give a great result.
 
markeg said:
Can you borrow someone's who's local to you, inks? Then have a go, see how you get on before shelling out.

I find it very therapeutic, and rewarding when all my efforts give a great result.
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Not a bad idea markeg. The thought of putting in the work myself but not killing my ageing shoulder buffing to a shine appeals quite a lot :)
 
You can hire them - just the first result that came up http://www.rollupandshine.com/meguiars-g220-dual-action-polishing-machine-for-hire-139-p.asp

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Thanks for the link.

Thinking about it, I actually got [for free!] a Halfords 240v polisher from forum member Wills back in 2011; completely forgot I had it! Worth a try?

2hzonr5.jpg
 
inkey$ said:
So all these posts make me wonder - do we think its worth me investing in a DA polisher and starter kit before having a go myself? For £140 you can get a CYC DAS-6 setup. Then maybe get it pro detailed at KDS?
Click to expand...
Given the age of your MC, it may well have been machine polished before (possibly more than once) or had localised reprays so a check with a paint depth gauge is probably essential before going anywhere near it with a machine polisher.

IMO, you'd be better off letting a pro get it up to scratch and then you could maintain the finish, they do depth readings before starting any work so you can ask them to point out any areas that may need extra care in the future due to thin paint - after that a light polish once a year would probably be more than enough. In addition, if you had one of the ceramic scratch-resistant coatings applied as part of the paint correction you'd find that, in the normal course of events, you probably wouldn't need to touch it with a polisher.
 
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