Shell starts to move then stops -- another top thread.

C

Christopher72

Active member
Screenshot-20240905-192348.jpg
Screenshot-20240905-192408.jpg


Tonight, when parking and closing up the top, the windowed shell moved forward for the boot to open, then kept stuttering, stopping when attempting to move the shell into the closed position over the boot. To me, it looked as if a trigger made the movement stop, and the shell would settle back in time before trying to attempt again. By supporting the shell with my hand, it didn't settle forward and iterated start/stop until closing and locking.

I'm assuming A697 with 11 iterations is the current problem causing the top to stutter stop. A68B with 255 must be ongoing, without active impact. I don't drive this car with the top closed -- if it's not nice enough to drive with the top down, I drive my old SUV. On a cold or wet day, it's in the garage.

So, what should I do? Should I just buy a new full-top wiring harness and pipes https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/pa..._35i&mg=54&sg=15&diagId=54_0402&q=54377311084 (54377311084) and replace the entire mess, future-proofing the car for the rest of its life?

Robbi? All of a sudden, I'm reading a ton of top threads. :(
 
Well that’s one way..but without reviewing the roof codes you could just fix the specfic issues?
 
Just had these looms fitted at bmw …with the hydrolic tubes …
Among all the other stuff I’ve had replaced with them too

The only thing left is the rest of the hydrologic system
Everything else is new and under warranty
I do envy the guys on here that fix these themselves.
 
B21 said:
Well that’s one way..but without reviewing the roof codes you could just fix the specfic issues?
Click to expand...

Well, after reading a bunch of Robbi's threads... "Everything will eventually fail at the top". It's almost like I'd best take care of it with a new complete kit and never think about it again. I discovered in a recent search that a company in the USA will rebuild the hydraulic pump for $800. I'm almost tempted to rip it out, put out a new loom, and proactively rebuild the pump with new seals and motor winding. maybe $2300 USD in parts. That's not nothing, but I'm not paying $1200/month for a new Z4 :)

I guess the next step is to find the problem and see if the $10 wiring splice fix is easy or there are more issues that will develop
 
Christopher72 said:
B21 said:
Well that’s one way..but without reviewing the roof codes you could just fix the specfic issues?
Click to expand...

Well, after reading a bunch of Robbi's threads... "Everything will eventually fail at the top". It's almost like I'd best take care of it with a new complete kit and never think about it again. I discovered in a recent search that a company in the USA will rebuild the hydraulic pump for $800. I'm almost tempted to rip it out, put out a new loom, and proactively rebuild the pump with new seals and motor winding. maybe $2300 USD in parts. That's not nothing, but I'm not paying $1200/month for a new Z4 :)

I guess the next step is to find the problem and see if the $10 wiring splice fix is easy or there are more issues that will develop
Click to expand...

I like your style :thumbsup:
 
105k miles only roof problems broken wires.

2 pair on right 1pair on left.
Proactive just splice in new wires, chop off at sensors and take back beyond any last bend.
 
B21 said:
I like your style :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Ha, well, I'm just pessimistic that I'll break something else while trying to discover the issue. I did find the kit for €818 with €30 shipping to USA from a BMW dealer in Germany -- so that's promising. Is there a thread that someone has done and documented the loom and pipe change? Didn't AnubisZed tackle this? ... searching :sos:
 
Christopher72 said:
B21 said:
I like your style :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Ha, well, I'm just pessimistic that I'll break something else while trying to discover the issue. I did find the kit for €818 with €30 shipping to USA from a BMW dealer in Germany -- so that's promising. Is there a thread that someone has done and documented the loom and pipe change? Didn't AnubisZed tackle this? ... searching :sos:
Click to expand...

Lordsoldseye ..I think that’s his name did a full swap of various parts..

RobbieZ4 I’m sure has done something along these lines..but seems he’s no longer visiting this forum..
 
Btw, A697 just means your driving with the top in the wrong position. It's an nothing code.

A68B mean you probably have a broken wire on the left side. Don't splice. Just replace a long section of wire.

Can you open the boot?
 
Thank you for the A697 information. I genuinely appreciate the membership here investing!

I'm a pessimist and don't want to deal with issues in the future after a fix, so I plan on replacing more than what is broken. When fixing my broken water pump, I similarly replaced the thermostat, AC belt/pullies, radiator, coolant hoses, intercooler, and thermostat.

I'm a big fan of while you're down there, especially on stuff I don't need extensive garage equipment to accomplish. Who knows, in two years, these looms may not even be possible to source—there are parts on these E89s you just can't get anymore without looking for the last eBay wreck.
 
Christopher72 said:
Robbi? All of a sudden, I'm reading a ton of top threads. :(
Click to expand...
Simply a (one) broken or shorted wire in the top, not visible bow of the rear roof shell. Get all 4+2 wires replaced in one shot by high flexible ones to avoid additional issues.

Lord Lolzeye has written down all required steps to get the rear roof shell removed and replaced back on top after a successful repair.

Btw, it's breaking my heart what a kind of [...] I had to read the last months in here. :cry:
 
RobbiZ4 said:
Christopher72 said:
Robbi? All of a sudden, I'm reading a ton of top threads. :(
Click to expand...
Simply a (one) broken or shorted wire in the top, not visible bow of the rear roof shell. Get all 4+2 wires replaced in one shot by high flexible ones to avoid additional issues.

Lord Lolzeye has written down all required steps to get the rear toof shell removed and replaced back on top after a successful repair.

Btw, it's breaking my heart what a kind of [...] I had to read the last months in here. :cry:
Click to expand...

Welcome back Sir Robbi... I'll start disassembly this next weekend!
 
Worst thing is to replace the factory wires with more factory wires.
Just rewire the lot with better quality wires.
Just boils down to one pair on the left and two pairs on the right.
Splice in from the sensor to just past the last bend.

I feel sorry for any owner not capable of diy fixing.
These cars have become a disaster for BMW incompetence.
 
Thank you. I appreciate your input on the DIY approach. I did consider that option, but I wanted to keep it in the factory instead of using custom crimps so that I didn't have to research the correct gauge and manufacturer of the flex cable, pins, crimps, etc. Additionally, I'm not fond of soldering things that move. Dave and Robbi's conversations referencing electrical diagrams and scanners usually go beyond me. My lazy option is the BMW part since it's still available.

I figure it would last the rest of the life of the 2011 car. At the least, this loom/part was fabricated in 2023 and hasn't been sitting on the shelf for a decade. €734 isn't fantastic, but it's cheaper than a new Zed. :headbang:
 
Progress... Sick as a dog today, but I had free time.

Taking some notes on what is working. I noticed that the witness marks on the 6 screws that hold shell 2 didn't line up. So, whomever removed the shell the last time didn't replace the screws as the service manual states. tsk tsk. One looked like a dog chewed on it. I made note of the top spacers and saved each set in a named bag. Some were thinner, so it's specific for each screw location. Heating each of the Loctite'd screws to 250C made them come out without any issue. It was worth the 4 minutes of the soldering hot air wand for each than the risk of tearing up the Torx. The previous shoddy work was of concern. I haven't identified where the problem is yet, it's not readily visible, but there are areas that don't have a factory clean sheathing. Not a concern, since I'm replacing the whole loom.

This cushion method was a better method by far than the official screwdriver in the arm method. The later method doesn't leave the rear Torx Bolt as accessible as the former. And you have a bit more room to work.

20241027-193802.jpg


So, I'm at this stage now and have taken a lot of pictures of the mechanism. But I'm truly sick and the cold garage isn't great even with wearing a heated vest. I'll have to borrow a heater for the next weekend when I start replacing the hydraulics and wiring. I dropped a tarp over it to keep the dust out while it sits.
20241027-204403-1.jpg
 
:thumbsup:
Christopher72 said:
Heating each of the Loctite'd screws to 250C made them come out without any issue. It was worth the 4 minutes of the soldering hot air wand for each ...
Click to expand...
Easier is using a heat gun with a 5mm nozzle. That takes only 10-20 seconds.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom