Shell starts to move then stops -- another top thread.
- Thread starter Christopher72
- Start date
Ohio
So I'm back and uncovered the car to work on this again this weekend.
Robbi/Dave. Looking at the left microswitch under the roof shell (64377227397), The existing part looks like its melt-riveted in place and I see the two plastic posts on the new part that I assume will need to be heated to melt the new on into place. What's the proper method on that?
Robbi/Dave. Looking at the left microswitch under the roof shell (64377227397), The existing part looks like its melt-riveted in place and I see the two plastic posts on the new part that I assume will need to be heated to melt the new on into place. What's the proper method on that?
I hold the switch with combination pliers.
Melting can be done with a gas soldering iron (I have a Dremel one). When the pins get soft, I use a putty knife to smear the melting plastic.
Alternatively, melting with the heat gun is a bit more complicated, as you have to bring up to 400°C onto these small pins.
Do you really need to replace it? These switches are almost never defective unless someone replaced them incorrectly due to an incorrect diagnosis.
Melting can be done with a gas soldering iron (I have a Dremel one). When the pins get soft, I use a putty knife to smear the melting plastic.
Alternatively, melting with the heat gun is a bit more complicated, as you have to bring up to 400°C onto these small pins.
Do you really need to replace it? These switches are almost never defective unless someone replaced them incorrectly due to an incorrect diagnosis.
Alright, I'll leave it be for now. Thanks for the quick response!
I got through the routing of the left side shell 1 & 2, still need to zip them down.
This is a larger radius than it was originally. It gives it a bit more working room when its closed (2nd pic)
So... less or good there? The other side which is still original is quite tight in the bend when closed. Right snug up to the joint.
This is a larger radius than it was originally. It gives it a bit more working room when its closed (2nd pic)
So... less or good there? The other side which is still original is quite tight in the bend when closed. Right snug up to the joint.
Some hints:
Note that at point (1) there will be some movement in the hydruaulic harness as the hydraulic cylinder is pushed back and forth. Tensile stress on the two hydraulic lines must be avoided.
Point (2): push it down to be able to clip the hydraulic hoses into the 3rd mounting bracket below my red line.
Point (3): Don't extend the upper bow too much! After mounting back the rear roof shell there isn't enough free space for it. You run the risk of the cables kinking on the upper mounting bracket!
Every millimeter back and forth has its advantages and disadvantages.
Note that at point (1) there will be some movement in the hydruaulic harness as the hydraulic cylinder is pushed back and forth. Tensile stress on the two hydraulic lines must be avoided.
Point (2): push it down to be able to clip the hydraulic hoses into the 3rd mounting bracket below my red line.
Point (3): Don't extend the upper bow too much! After mounting back the rear roof shell there isn't enough free space for it. You run the risk of the cables kinking on the upper mounting bracket!
Every millimeter back and forth has its advantages and disadvantages.
Thanks for your support. I will improve with that guidance. Working from left to right, the next left side ram will be approached soon. It seemed like the logical approach. I'll keep the thread up with progress.
Well now that I've done the end on the left, maybe I should do the right before I forget how! The work is daunting until you do it once.
Yes, I planned as such, since the new wiring has different connectors than came standard with 2011. Well informed by the posts here.
Yes, I planned as such, since the new wiring has different connectors than came standard with 2011. Well informed by the posts here.
Forgot to say, that I work top down at first!RobbiZ4 said:Funny. I always start on the right side and then fight towards the left.
Starting with the top hydraulic hoses on the right I shimmy down to the pump. And then the opposite on the left.
a bit tricky is to avoid twists on the new loom. This has to be carefully planned and avoided.
So, here's an interesting one. Getting the clips off thos posts for this ram wasn't difficult, and the the top post is out. How in the world does the bottom post get removed? I did remove the nut in the green and one on corresponding on the side thinking I might lift the black frame up to have the post clear the lip, but it didn't budge. Before spelunking in this abyss further, I thought I'd ask here.
Good idea!Christopher72 said:
Lord Lolzeye went an unconventional way, I'd not support. Indeed, the main pillar has to bet lifted to be able to replace these two hoses.
But, I'd make a compromise because these two hoses never failed until now:
Just leave the 2x2 hoses of the main pillars untouched. Place the new hoses at their target position on the bottom of the car (maybe as spare for the future) and close the fittings with an adhesive tape to avoid dirt (ants?) getting in.
Close the fittings next to the pump as well with tape (AFAIR 11/12, 13/14). Then you have to cut the zip ties of the old harness between main pillars and pump and bundle these 2 old hoses on each side with the new harness.
Another hint:
Put some tissues around the fittings of just removed old hydraulic hoses and fix it with zip ties. It'll avoid hydraulic fluid getting out if you are moving all the lines in the following steps.
As Lord Lolzeye said, it's a mental challenge working concentrated with all those hoses flying around in the boot. There are 24 m of hydraulic hoses to be handled in parallel.
I'd be more amenable to trimming the edge of the head of the post than to trim the pillar structure like Lordlolzeye -- but that's difficult when its installed. I wonder if Dave bailed on this set of rams as well.
I can't seem to find anything on the replacement of these, just the shell and the telematics rams. How hard is it to lift the pillar the 5mm needed? Is there another hidden nut I'm missing or is it just the weight?
I can't seem to find anything on the replacement of these, just the shell and the telematics rams. How hard is it to lift the pillar the 5mm needed? Is there another hidden nut I'm missing or is it just the weight?
RobbiZ4 said:
Ok, thanks for the guidance, I'll heed. Soon I'm going to have to figure out where to send the Christmas gift.
I'm thinking that I'll just put a heat shrink cap on those unused secondaries.
I'll post more in a few days of progress or pain.
Back at this... its warmer here in Ohio...
I figured out the problem with the top. missing a few things apparently...
Don't leave your car on the streets in the city...
This really makes sense why I need to jumpstart all of the time.
Pump is out and headed to Top Hydraulics for a rebuild -- just ffs. Nice and dry in there.
My almost 16 yr old son is wanting this running again -- he has delusions that he won't' be excluded as a driver on the insurance on this car.
I'll keep him thinking that while he helps get it back together.
I figured out the problem with the top. missing a few things apparently...
Don't leave your car on the streets in the city...
This really makes sense why I need to jumpstart all of the time.
Pump is out and headed to Top Hydraulics for a rebuild -- just ffs. Nice and dry in there.
My almost 16 yr old son is wanting this running again -- he has delusions that he won't' be excluded as a driver on the insurance on this car.
I'll keep him thinking that while he helps get it back together.
RobbiZ4 said:
After having one side fully completed, it seems easier, just a lot of careful work. It's certainly intimidating, but completely doable. I'm glad that I've documented my steps and my progress since I've put it to bed for a few months. My wife's statement last week was: Do you even remember where all of the parts are or how to put it back together. Umm. I hope so. :lol:
Anyone else embarking on this -- I'm just slow because it's not my main car, but my project car. It is stored for the winter. As Dave indicated in one of his threads --- this can be done in a full day if you are him (or Robbi). or in a weekend if you are a standard human. My plodding nature of measure 10x cut tomorrow, doesn't yield that speed. But I'll cross the line before the tortoise.
Scottish Borders