Roof motor dead, then brought back to life.... *updated*

Right, So I took the pump apart as much as I could, cleaned up and carefully put all the bits back together.

Got motor attached to the roof and test rig. Unfortunately same outcome as before, roof raises perfectly but fails to drop without a push to get it going. Determined to get this fixed but don't know what to do next.

Following the TIS:

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Ftis.bmwcats.com%2Fdoc1080550%2F

fluid levels seem good.
 
Did you take any pictures on how far you got?
Have you dismanteled the whole pump? What kind of valves where they? little steel balls with a spring behind?

Just curious
 
Sorry no pictures. I took apart as much as I could of the pump. Yes, the valves were steel bolts with a spring behind.
 
OK, So having had a look here: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51833&start=15 (5th post on 2nd page). Could there be an airlock in the system?
 
r.a said:
OK, So having had a look here: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=51833&start=15 (5th post on 2nd page). Could there be an airlock in the system?
Click to expand...

The system is supposed to be self-purging of air, when I did mine it took about 8 full actuations before it was perfect. Just a thought but have you had a good look at the actuators on each side to make sure there's no leaks or damage?
If the pump seems to be ok then maybe they're the problem somehow.
 
UPDATE:

Managed to get it working now, don't exactly know what was wrong, but I double checked everything including fluid levels power supply and made sure all connections were as tight as possible. Got the motor back into the housing and sealed up with silicone and water proof tape on top once the silicone had set.

OK so now the next proble. :roll: I tried with the help of someone else to lift the roof and drop it back in car but couldn't get it done. The problem was getting the metal frame of the roof around the edge (think it is known as the hoop) to go in. Couldn't get the hoop in position it just keep sitting on top of the car. There must be some knack to it, ant tips would be brilliant on how to get the roof to sit back in the car. Should the roof be in opened or closed position when attempting to replace the roof?

Thanks guys!
 
You have to CAREFULLY mackle the hoop inside the frame of the trunk before dropping the "poles" into their positions. Before you do this make sure the paintwork is WELL PROTECTED.

Also it is best to have the bottom pins screwed back in so the poles have an anchor point, this way you know the roof is placed in its right position.

Glad you have finally got it going mate, you must have the patience of a saint! :) :thumbsup:
 
r.a said:
UPDATE:

Managed to get it working now, don't exactly know what was wrong, but I double checked everything including fluid levels power supply and made sure all connections were as tight as possible. Got the motor back into the housing and sealed up with silicone and water proof tape on top once the silicone had set.

OK so now the next proble. :roll: I tried with the help of someone else to lift the roof and drop it back in car but couldn't get it done. The problem was getting the metal frame of the roof around the edge (think it is known as the hoop) to go in. Couldn't get the hoop in position it just keep sitting on top of the car. There must be some knack to it, ant tips would be brilliant on how to get the roof to sit back in the car. Should the roof be in opened or closed position when attempting to replace the roof?

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Ok, the knack with the hoop is that it has to go in first before you drop the motor ends down. Make sure you have protected the paintwork as this is where it will get scratched. So lift the entire roof and tip the hoop downwards so it is under the boot lip, this is where you need two people working together. Force the hoop under the loop and then make sure it fits back in the side clips each side.
The 'legs' of the roof supports will then slide down into position where they can be bolted in.
Make sure that all the hydraulic lines and electrical connections are where they should be and not snagged up or crushed anywhere and you're pretty much on the home straight... :D
 
r.a said:
OK thanks guys, should the roof be in the open position when attempting to re-fit?
Click to expand...

You need it open, so fully flat, but bear in mind that you might need to lift it to half-way if the hoop is stubborn in going in, just both of you push and jiggle it about and it will go. It's one of those jobs where you don't have enough arms... :D
 
I would also mention that the lower of the two leg bolts both sides need to be in the door pillar for the roof legs to slide onto. You can do without, but then you'll have to lift up and fit the bolt afterwards, it's just easier to let the leg position itself as it goes in.
 
Georgio said:
I would also mention that the lower of the two leg bolts both sides need to be in the door pillar for the roof legs to slide onto. You can do without, but then you'll have to lift up and fit the bolt afterwards, it's just easier to let the leg position itself as it goes in.
Click to expand...

HEY Geo, i already said that. :poke: :D :thumbsup:
 
OK so another update. Managed to finally get the hoop in after a lot of faffing about. Got the hoop clipped and bolted and also bolted both arms. Before I did anything else though I connected up the electric looms and decided to test.

Disaster! The motor just spins up and no movement, Ive made sure the hydraulic bypass is in correct position and micro switch etc.
 
r.a, your boden cable is not working, it has either kinked or got trapped preventing it from connecting to the hydraulics. This happened to me also. Although i haven't had time to do the roof jobby again, i will do, sometime soon. It only needs to have a very minor obstruction, preventing it from connecting to the ball bearing type valve in the hydraulic housing (whoever designed this was a :wkr: )

Looks like its got to come out again! :o
 
I thought it may have been the bowden cable but I'm not so sure since when the bowden is pulled the top moves freely manually so obviously the hydraulics are bypassed at they should. When the cable is returned into the slot to re-enable the hydraulics again the roof cannot be moved by hand, so doesn't this indicate that the bowden cable is operating as it should or am I missing something. Also when the motor is running and the bowden cable is pulled the pitch (sound) of the motor changes in response.

In reply to Smartbear, yes the roof was tested and functioning outside of the car (see previous posts for more info/background).
 
Not the boden cable then, probably a daft question but the microswitch is ok and working?
 
Micro switch is in correct position to allow roof operation, It is taped down at the moment since the parcel shelf hasn't been replaced yet. This is definitely not at fault since the motor would not even run if the microswitch was is in wrong position and warning lights would have flashed near the roof open/close buttons.
 
Probably another daft question but have you tried pushing the close button to open the roof? Could the terminals be wired the wrong way round?
 
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