Roof motor dead, then brought back to life.... *updated*
- Thread starter Georgio
- Start date
Loughborough
tug said:Georgio said:
That would be EXCELLENT! Im sure thousands of zed owners would find that invaluable. If you do, do it then let me be the first to thank you.
Cheers tug.
Do it :happyclap:
Super hero status awaits you now that the Shipkiller guide is always missing
Usa
Ewazix said:tug said:Georgio said:
That would be EXCELLENT! Im sure thousands of zed owners would find that invaluable. If you do, do it then let me be the first to thank you.
Cheers tug.
Do it :happyclap:
Super hero status awaits you now that the Shipkiller guide is always missing
Instructions still available thanks to forum member "Bladeowner" along with loads of other useful "how-to's" at http://dellis.co.uk.linkpc.net/Z4/Pdfs/Instructions/
*Edit* added a few more pics of the roof drain filter and the (very expensive) roof test rig as requested by a few members.
On the video of the roof testing, that was the first time it was operated so it was very slow, I actioned it about half a dozen times to purge any air in the system before putting it back in the car and it became very fast and slick.
Regarding the testing, do not under any circumstances try and test the roof by just laying on a floor as the roof will smash the rear glass as a couple of members have found out.
Build a simple test rig that takes no more than 5 minutes and get it off the floor and stable.
On the video of the roof testing, that was the first time it was operated so it was very slow, I actioned it about half a dozen times to purge any air in the system before putting it back in the car and it became very fast and slick.
Regarding the testing, do not under any circumstances try and test the roof by just laying on a floor as the roof will smash the rear glass as a couple of members have found out.
Build a simple test rig that takes no more than 5 minutes and get it off the floor and stable.
Hi,
I've reconditioned my roof motor and its spins strong now. However when I connect the motor back to the pump and attach to the roof it struggles to move the roof up and down, it does move but very reluctantly.
Would I be correct in thinking the hydraulic fluid level should be at the top of the plus mark on the fluid reservoir?
I've also noticed there are lot of air bubbles in the fluid reservoir at the top of fluid, almost foamy, how do I get rid of the air. I was under the impression that the system is self bleeding and opening and closing the roof a few times would get rid of air but this doesn't seem to get rid of the bubbles.
Finally on the photo below (thanks to GuidoK)
http://audio.home.xs4all.nl/zooi/z4/kapmotor/motor2.jpg
The peg which slots into the white plastic wheel with holes on the pump looks as if it is made up of two parts, any inner peg and an outer cylinder. Is this correct as mine seems just as though it has the inner peg only and not the outer cylinder. I'm concerned that maybe I've lost the outer cylinder when taking the pump/motors assembly apart. I will post a photo of what mine looks like.
I've reconditioned my roof motor and its spins strong now. However when I connect the motor back to the pump and attach to the roof it struggles to move the roof up and down, it does move but very reluctantly.
Would I be correct in thinking the hydraulic fluid level should be at the top of the plus mark on the fluid reservoir?
I've also noticed there are lot of air bubbles in the fluid reservoir at the top of fluid, almost foamy, how do I get rid of the air. I was under the impression that the system is self bleeding and opening and closing the roof a few times would get rid of air but this doesn't seem to get rid of the bubbles.
Finally on the photo below (thanks to GuidoK)
http://audio.home.xs4all.nl/zooi/z4/kapmotor/motor2.jpg
The peg which slots into the white plastic wheel with holes on the pump looks as if it is made up of two parts, any inner peg and an outer cylinder. Is this correct as mine seems just as though it has the inner peg only and not the outer cylinder. I'm concerned that maybe I've lost the outer cylinder when taking the pump/motors assembly apart. I will post a photo of what mine looks like.
The hydraulic unit should be self purging, if you have bubbles in the oil it sounds as if air is getting into the system somewhere. When you removed the motor from the hydraulic section were you careful to make sure the reservoir was at the bottom to minimise oil loss?
I had to action my roof about 6 times before it purged all air and worked without any hesitation.
Hate to say it, but if everything is back in the car then you'll probably need to get it all out again, make up a support rig and get it working perfectly before refitting.
I had to action my roof about 6 times before it purged all air and worked without any hesitation.
Hate to say it, but if everything is back in the car then you'll probably need to get it all out again, make up a support rig and get it working perfectly before refitting.
r.a said:
When you're operating the hood are you keeping the unit at roughly the same angle as it would be in the car i.e. reservoir up/motor down at an angle of about 30 degrees, if you're moving the hood and the unit vertical or something maybe that's causing it?
Might be worth replacing the oil as you suggest, maybe it got contaminated somehow?
First test it with the pump placed vertically.
That is how it can bleed itself I think. The excentric pumpwheel should be below oil level. (and then open&close the hood a few times)
As for installing horizontally, maybe it can bleed itself in the position that the hydrolic lines are on the bottom side. You might want to experiment with that position.
That is how it can bleed itself I think. The excentric pumpwheel should be below oil level. (and then open&close the hood a few times)
As for installing horizontally, maybe it can bleed itself in the position that the hydrolic lines are on the bottom side. You might want to experiment with that position.
Here's the inside of my pump with the peg (top photo below). Compared to the photo provided by GuidoK is seems mine is missing a part (the metal tube/sleeve that surrounds the peg). I think I may have lost this part as there is a lot of play when the peg sits in the hole in the white plastic. Please can someone confirm?
My pump
Photo provided by GuidoK.
My pump
Photo provided by GuidoK.
Quick update:
I've managed to source a spring which fits over the pin and in the plastic wheel, so I think that sorted now.
I put pump/motor back together and got it on the test rig again earlier to test. The roof operates but very slowly and hesitantly. It takes about 12-13 at best to extend so the roof closes and about double that time to retract when opening. I also cleaned out the system of all the old fluid and topped back up again however there still seems to be air bubbles forming in the reservoir.
Can some please confirm what the fluid level should be? I thought it was at the top of the + sign on the reservoir, but is this when the roof is opened or closed?
Finally I've been using the following hydraulic fluid:
http://www.gsfcarparts.com/980me0010
as this is the spec BMW uses according to some research I've done and seen it on some other forum posts. However I'm beginning to think that this may be incorrect and perhaps whats causing me problems? Could anyone confirm?
I've managed to source a spring which fits over the pin and in the plastic wheel, so I think that sorted now.
I put pump/motor back together and got it on the test rig again earlier to test. The roof operates but very slowly and hesitantly. It takes about 12-13 at best to extend so the roof closes and about double that time to retract when opening. I also cleaned out the system of all the old fluid and topped back up again however there still seems to be air bubbles forming in the reservoir.
Can some please confirm what the fluid level should be? I thought it was at the top of the + sign on the reservoir, but is this when the roof is opened or closed?
Finally I've been using the following hydraulic fluid:
http://www.gsfcarparts.com/980me0010
as this is the spec BMW uses according to some research I've done and seen it on some other forum posts. However I'm beginning to think that this may be incorrect and perhaps whats causing me problems? Could anyone confirm?
I think the type of hydraulic oil is the least important bit of the system.
It is a very simple pump with reasonably low pressure and power.
It should be self bleeding system.
The fluid should be between the 2 markers. anywhere where the physical + is is good, and that should be with the roof closed.
I advise you to read all the TIS articles concerning the roof repairs.
It is a very simple pump with reasonably low pressure and power.
It should be self bleeding system.
The fluid should be between the 2 markers. anywhere where the physical + is is good, and that should be with the roof closed.
I advise you to read all the TIS articles concerning the roof repairs.
I noticed on my unit that the oil level was halfway between the marks with the roof closed and I didn't have bubbles in the oil, it was just consistently amber.
It really does sound as if there is air getting into your system somewhere, did you take of the hydraulic hoses at all?
Maybe check all the hoses minutely to make sure one hasn't been pinched and punctured.
Just for reference before the roof died it was taking about 15 seconds to either open or close, after refurbing the motor both are now about 8 seconds.
It really does sound as if there is air getting into your system somewhere, did you take of the hydraulic hoses at all?
Maybe check all the hoses minutely to make sure one hasn't been pinched and punctured.
Just for reference before the roof died it was taking about 15 seconds to either open or close, after refurbing the motor both are now about 8 seconds.