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Rod bearing failure - what to do?

She's back!

Any running in advice? Keeping it under 3K with no heavy loads and varied RPM. Anything else?

crg0MQg.jpg

Need to get the summer wheels on now..! :roll:
 
zmaster007 said:
She's back!

Any running in advice? Keeping it under 3K with no heavy loads and varied RPM. Anything else?

crg0MQg.jpg

Need to get the summer wheels on now..! :roll:
Click to expand...


Congratulations :thumbsup: I'm amazed at this whole situation, did BMW (or you) ever do an oil analysis to determine the weight? I'm assuming if BMW did not they must have just accepted that their tech put the wrong oil in, if so it's really quite shocking!
Sounds like you didn't have much of a hard time getting this actioned, great result and I can only imagine you won't be taking your car near a BMW shop again :?
As for your running in, I'd say that's about right but I would prefer a higher rpm if going up a hill say than bogging it under 3k, high load low rpm is not good.
 
The main purpose is to avoid doing damage is something comes undone. I had an engine where the builder had neglected to locktight the cam pulleys and one cane undone and because I had not been thrashing it the damage was limited... The key thing is to watch the temperature and make sure it does not get hot.
 
zmaster007 said:
She's back!

Any running in advice? Keeping it under 3K with no heavy loads and varied RPM. Anything else?

crg0MQg.jpg

Need to get the summer wheels on now..! :roll:
Click to expand...

Did BMW put in a new engine or just fix the bottom-end?
 
Good outcome for you, nice to finally have your car back.. :thumbsup: :driving:

I’ve said it before, people have an almost hysterical paranoia about buying an M with every single service done on time and at the dealers, means absolutely nothing. How many M’s are out there that have their running in service ticket stamped but in reality didn’t get anyone anywhere near the thing in practice, like they didn’t with my new 35is. I’ve read posts about bearings failing from 60k or earlier and others that are still running sweetly at over 100k, I wonder why... :roll: Plus you have no idea how a car has been used between services. You’re in the lap of the gods.

Stay as far away from the stealers as you can, I wouldn’t trust them to pump the tyres up.
 
It was a new engine - parts came out more expensive. The Millers report I did stated w50. I never heard the result of the test the dealer did via Shell. I’ve attached the wear report if anyone wants to compare it to theirs. This is oil that was 200 miles old and two confirmed bearing failures. Do these numbers seem in the right ballpark?YDa7tev.jpg
 
zmaster007 said:
It was a new engine - parts came out more expensive. The Millers report I did stated w50. I never heard the result of the test the dealer did via Shell. I’ve attached the wear report if anyone wants to compare it to theirs. This is oil that was 200 miles old and two confirmed bearing failures. Do these numbers seem in the right ballpark?YDa7tev.jpg
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Wow, new engine, in the end that's a great result! :thumbsup:

I'm amazed BMW agreed to this without too much of a fight.

My Z4MC would never go near a franchise dealer, Indie for me.
 
zmaster007 said:
It was a new engine - parts came out more expensive. The Millers report I did stated w50. I never heard the result of the test the dealer did via Shell. I’ve attached the wear report if anyone wants to compare it to theirs. This is oil that was 200 miles old and two confirmed bearing failures. Do these numbers seem in the right ballpark?YDa7tev.jpg
Click to expand...

Really?! That’s excellent news mate!

I didn’t even know it was possible to still get a brand new S54B32 from BMW / Regensburg upon request.

Seeing as you have a new motor I would follow the run-in schedule in your service manual.

Your dealer should have informed you of this (if they didn’t then that’s another alarm bell), but in essence you need to do the following for the first 1,250 miles:

  • Warm up the car correctly by keeping under 3,000rpm until the engine is up to temp
  • Once the car is warm do not exceed 5,500 rpm or 105 mph
  • Try and do a mixture of driving. The easiest way to do this is a long run on the motorway whereby you exercise different rpms in different gears as opposed to sticking on cruise control in 6th
  • Do not use full throttle
  • After 1,250 miles drop the oil for 5.5 litres of fresh Castrol 10w60

After that you’re good to go!

Also if you don’t mind me asking but what was the total bill on the warranty invoice?
 

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There is a small store of s54s left I'm led to believe and it's possible to buy crate at a not unreasonable cost I understand if you know the right people.. Which I don't :D
Anyway, good result op, I wouldn't be particularly happy having my engine rebuilt by the same people that if we understand this correctly basically broke your engine in the first place with the simplest task.
 
The invoice has the engine price replaced by #### so I don’t know how much it cost them. I read the bit in the manual but it’s always nice to get the advice of you all.
 
It raises the Dealer v Indie question in my mind.
Would an Indie have made the same contribution or indeed any if he had made that same error?
 
-Tom- said:
Great result after some shocking treatment of the car.

Any photos of the brand new shiny s54?? :poke:
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Unfortunately the ancillaries and plastics have all been transferred over so it pretty much looks exactly the same! Only thing I've noticed is a smoother sounding valvetrain, otherwise could not tell that it is a new engine. It even still has the low rev stutter every now and again.

Y9YBjEj.jpg
 
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