Removing the OE phone mount

No, the point of the How-to was to show the correct way to remove it. If you are disconnecting the plugs from the pcb then you’ve opened up the the phone bracket, which didn't need to be done. And, presumably, this is because you need to loosen/remove the centre console, and didn't want to/couldn't be bothered. In doing it this way you run the risk of damaging something, and I've seen that on here and other sites before, which is why I did it.
At the end of the day the owner can do it however they want, but this thread was for doing it correctly, not the lazy/bodge way.
I don’t like forcefully tugging on things. I had the center console bolts removed but many of the wiring harnesses were attached and pulling on them to various capacities didn’t immediately yield release. So I propped up the rear of the console and worked from underneath (blindly), using my front facing camera for visibility.

There was very little elaboration on how to get the wires disconnected. I believe it said “disconnect” in the tutorial. The method for disconnecting wasn’t elaborated on until I realized that Tornado did this 4 pages later, after the fact.

No matter how much force I put on those 6 tabs, they wouldn’t release from the console.
So I applied upward force on the cradle by grabbing it with some pliers, while prying the tabs and eventually the plastic cover popped off revealing the circuit board. I was able to feed the circuit board down through the square hole.

I did go back two days later after finding a picture of the fully removed assembly. There was a lever in that picture which gave me the clue I needed on how to remove it. So I’ve harvested those wires out of the car just to do it.

IMG_5633.png

I would urge anyone who wants to do this, read all 4 pages. There are experiences shared which will make it easier to accomplish. Unfortunately, you have to get to page 4 just to see my warning to read through page 4 before beginning. 🤣
 
Right let's put this to bed once and for all....
IF you remove the phone mount, disconnecting the cables at their proper places (not doing "Wreck-it-Ralph" on it like some have! Where you stand a damn good chance of blowing a fuse!), which is the black antenna plug, purple Combox plug (if fitted) and the black multi-pin power plug, then you wont short anything out. This is NOT connected to the MOST fibre optic network at all, so disconnecting it will have no affect on the audio system.
For anyone who is having issues with any other system, apart from the phone system, then you have either not plugged something in (or conversely unplugged something) or you've blown a fuse. If that's not the case then get your fault codes checked.
Where is the com box, and what is it for?
 
Either you have a messed up system or you have misunderstood the 676/677 architecture!🧐
I'll tell you what I don't understand, how do you do "time domain correction" for the driver and the passenger? Or what happens if the driver is a bit taller or moves the seat?
 
I'll tell you what I don't understand, how do you do "time domain correction" for the driver and the passenger? Or what happens if the driver is a bit taller or moves the seat?
Simple ..you place the sensing mic in the position where the centre of the head between the two ears are..so taller driver..mic further up…

Generally the audio corrections are done for the driver and subsequent DSP processing is used if you want the passenger to ‘enjoy’ the soundscape..with an obvious compromise that it’s not quite as good for the driver….or get the pax to sit on your lap and rest their head against yours…

In reality there’s a degree of elasticity in the soundstage which means that most folks can’t sense it ‘going off’ with various imperfections…

🧐👌
 
Where is the com box, and what is it for?
Combox on the E89 sits normally on the rear bulkhead ..boot side on the LHS as you look at the back of the car…bloody big aluminium thing looks like a power amplifier
 
Simple ..you place the sensing mic in the position where the centre of the head between the two ears are..so taller driver..mic further up…

Generally the audio corrections are done for the driver and subsequent DSP processing is used if you want the passenger to ‘enjoy’ the soundscape..with an obvious compromise that it’s not quite as good for the driver….or get the pax to sit on your lap and rest their head against yours…

In reality there’s a degree of elasticity in the soundstage which means that most folks can’t sense it ‘going off’ with various imperfections…

🧐👌
It is flexible. I've never needed to sit in the exact centre of left and right speakers to be satisfied when listening to hifi. Obviously, you would need pretty extreme corrections in a car given how close your head is to one side of the stereo -and any correction you do for the driver is going to make the passenger's path lengths to left and right much worse!--so I'd say leave it as is!
 
It is flexible. I've never needed to sit in the exact centre of left and right speakers to be satisfied when listening to hifi. Obviously, you would need pretty extreme corrections in a car given how close your head is to one side of the stereo -and any correction you do for the driver is going to make the passenger's path lengths to left and right much worse!--so I'd say leave it as is!
Modern DSPs use sophisticated techniques to expand the sound stage and also localise speech…the reality is you normally optimise it for the driver and the pax lives with the consequences…
 
皆さんに質問があります。Credorを取り外してトレイを交換した際に、緑の基板を取り外してしまい、Bluetoothがスマートフォンに接続できなくなってしまいました。困っています。解決方法を教えていただけると幸いです。
 
皆さんに質問があります。Credorを取り外してトレイを交換した際に、緑の基板を取り外してしまい、Bluetoothがスマートフォンに接続できなくなってしまいました。困っています。解決方法を教えていただけると幸いです。
「Credor」とは何ですか? また、どのグリーンボードのことですか? 写真を見せてください。
What is a "Credor" ? And what green board are you talking about? Pictures please.
 
昨日、電話マークのヒューズを確認したら切れていて、それが原因でした。スナップオンアダプターを外したこととは関係なく、取り外した際にショートしただけです。
 
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