Rear brake pipe replacement

[bigwinn]

Right

Took this on today and nearly won

Got all the old flexis off, cut the old pipes off (wow they were bad), made new ones up, flared like a pro!

But- when I came to flare the old steel pipes I cut into underneath my tool wouldn’t flare them, just kept sliding no matter how tight I made it

New tool on way, but back suspension and brakes all back together now, just waiting to get the lines rejoined

Any tips?

Stuart

 

[bigwinn]

Old and busted

 

[bigwinn]

The old ones on rusted corners fractured so easily- lesson learnt there!

 

[IRD]

Good job well done Sir! Once had a brake pipe split and lose the fluid whilst on the move. It was in an old NSU 1200 TT as I approached a roundabout near Middlesbrough. I literally did go round on two wheels. Not an experience to be repeated! :roll:

 

[bigwinn]

NSU- wow

Was that polish? Or Russian?

 

[Umfaan]

NSU …German ….forerunner of Audi

 

[bigwinn]

Showing your age there gents

 

[grannyknot]

Nice to see you are using Cunifer tubing, I've replace the brake lines on a number of cars and Cunifer is a joy to work with. Not that anyone will be looking at them but a bit of 0000 fine steel wool and they will gleam.

 

[bigwinn]

Nice to see you are using Cunifer tubing, I've replace the brake lines on a number of cars and Cunifer is a joy to work with. Not that anyone will be looking at them but a bit of 0000 fine steel wool and they will gleam.

Agreed it’s a dream to work with compared to steel or copper

 

[Mr Tidy]

I had them replaced on my previous Coupe by someone who had a Shed for Zeds and the trickiest bit was putting a flare on the OE steel pipes - apparently it required a pretty robust flaring tool and still took 2 attempts!

 

[enuff_zed]

I see you've not taken your brave pills to get round to fitting your new drop links yet Stuart.
We all have our nemesis.

If it helps, just did a set earlier in the week.
Completely disconnect the ARB from the bush mounts too, then you can move it away from the side you are working at until part of it butts up against a solid part of the car underneath. Then you have something to push against when you force the link over the end of the bar.
That plus plenty of lube. :?

 

[Zedebee]

I see you've not taken your brave pills to get round to fitting your new drop links yet Stuart.
We all have our nemesis.

If it helps, just did a set earlier in the week.
Completely disconnect the ARB from the bush mounts too, then you can move it away from the side you are working at until part of it butts up against a solid part of the car underneath. Then you have something to push against when you force the link over the end of the bar.
That plus plenty of lube. :?

I managed to replace my nearside one without loosening the ARB, although I won’t say it was easy.

 

[bigwinn]

Ah that was all done yesterday.

But you are right- it is my least favourite job ever

 

[bigwinn]

I had them replaced on my previous Coupe by someone who had a Shed for Zeds and the trickiest bit was putting a flare on the OE steel pipes - apparently it required a pretty robust flaring tool and still took 2 attempts!

Off to attempt it now with an industrial flaring kit!

 

[bigwinn]

I see you've not taken your brave pills to get round to fitting your new drop links yet Stuart.
We all have our nemesis.

If it helps, just did a set earlier in the week.
Completely disconnect the ARB from the bush mounts too, then you can move it away from the side you are working at until part of it butts up against a solid part of the car underneath. Then you have something to push against when you force the link over the end of the bar.
That plus plenty of lube. :?

I managed to replace my nearside one without loosening the ARB, although I won’t say it was easy.

Now that’s got me interested

Would you share how?

 

[Zedebee]

Just noticed you have a broken droplink still waiting to be removed.

From memory:
Car jacked up at the rear where the two diagonal braces meet
Second jack positioned under the damper
Remove brackets which attach the droplink to the wishbone
Lube up ARB end of droplink, feed it up through the wishbone and position the bottom end up against the ARB
You might be able to press it on a little bit so it doesn’t fall off, but at this stage it will be a long way off vertical
Lying under the car (taking all appropriate safety precautions) with your head inboard, get a big lever (I used a big flat head screwdriver with a 1/4” square section) behind the droplink, i.e. wheelside, up though the wishbone and lever towards you using the wishbone as a pivot.


Use the second jack to raise/lower the suspension to give you a better angle.
Then when it’s properly on, attach the brackets and secure

It was a significant effort, but went on eventually. You don’t have to remove the brackets, but it made it easier to manoeuvre/position the droplink from above and assess angles etc.

 

[bigwinn]

Thanks Ben I’ll deffo give that a go

Next time

Brake pipes all done- a more substantial kit was all that was needed!

Stuart

 

[Zedebee]

Well done Stuart, not many try that at home.

 

[wolverine2k]

Thanks Ben I’ll deffo give that a go

Next time

Brake pipes all done- a more substantial kit was all that was needed!

Stuart

Did this job myself last month - when looking at your pictures, I was wondering if they were my pictures Although your before was wayyy more rotten than mine were. Mine were only slightly rusty but I have a very strict MOT tester. I wouldn't have it any other way though as I like to get things perfect. I even bought steel hoses and went for a fancy purple for no particular reason at all except for it to be different.




I know a bit late to the party - I used this one "A-P6FT Brake Pipe Flaring Tool Universal In-situ" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124067066953 - worked very well on both the kunifer and the original steel lines where I joined them. I highly recommend it. And no it's not my listing