gannet said:Wiring loom present on cars built before oct 2004
Yeah i've read that. Mines 2006 so i took it that it wouldn't be there
Post 04 cruise control retrofit N52
- Thread starter jamiecarpenter
- Start date
Yeah i've read that. Mines 2006 so i took it that it wouldn't be there
Did the CC retrofit last Sunday but was very concerned when I discovered pin 4 in the DME 26-pin plug as to the BMW instructions was occupied. After many hours on the net I found the post from jamiecarpenter and followed his insructions last night and it all worked like a charm. The best part is there was no BMW software update needed because the CC worked as it should the first test drive 
There was however one thing that did not match up and that was the short blue wire labeled C provided in the kit, this wire was not needed because it did not fit, I had to use the wire labeled A4 with the connector, this was on a N52 3,0Si 2006
There was however one thing that did not match up and that was the short blue wire labeled C provided in the kit, this wire was not needed because it did not fit, I had to use the wire labeled A4 with the connector, this was on a N52 3,0Si 2006Guiseley said:opcorn: might need some brave pills to try this, but local Stealer just quoted nearly £700 - £200 parts (which seems OK as they have new cowel too) and £500 for labour because it takes 4 hours to recode the car. :thumbsdown:
Utter crap, I picked up the loom just yesterday for £13.66 plus vat (inc 10% discount) and the stork as available for £60 from memory. And there is no coding required.
I'm not sure if I'm going to do mine or not but as SatNav looms are not available now I bought the cruise loom just in case so I have all the parts.
Thanks OP - just done the retrofit on my '06 2.5si Sport with the use of your instructions.
Luckily I didn't need to remove the glove box lid and did the work over a couple of evenings after work.
Just to agree with san4ever, the blue splice cable supplied in the kit wasn't needed as the connector is actually too big for the connection block. Luckily I pre-tested everything before cutting any wires.
For anyone out there that's thinking of buying the pre-cut cowel, I managed to get a pretty neat job with just a hacksaw and two grades of sandpaper, it is more work but if you don't have a dremmel then it's perfectly adequate as the plastic is pretty soft.
Note - Remove the material up to but not over the raised lines of the cutout and it should be perfect.
Thanks again all!
Dave
Luckily I didn't need to remove the glove box lid and did the work over a couple of evenings after work.
Just to agree with san4ever, the blue splice cable supplied in the kit wasn't needed as the connector is actually too big for the connection block. Luckily I pre-tested everything before cutting any wires.
For anyone out there that's thinking of buying the pre-cut cowel, I managed to get a pretty neat job with just a hacksaw and two grades of sandpaper, it is more work but if you don't have a dremmel then it's perfectly adequate as the plastic is pretty soft.
Note - Remove the material up to but not over the raised lines of the cutout and it should be perfect.
Thanks again all!
Dave
aquazi said:
As Gannet says the clips are on the the front face of the cowel either side of the steering column cutout. The clips are vertical if I remember correctly.
There are also two vertical pins that locate the two halves together, I managed to break one
but it hasn't affected the alignment at all. I think my ham fisted method excludes me from advising the best way to separate the two halves but good luck, it's definately worth it.Cheers
Dave
:ilz4f:
All sorted now - thanks to Bradders and his soldering iron, and a multitude of PMs to friendly forumites :cheers:
Anyone need any tips / help then use Jamiecarpenter's excellent write-up
or get in touch.
I didn't bother with the repair cable, and confirm it's pin 39 (the fourth from the end of the block) - not pin 4 as per BMW instructions.
All sorted now - thanks to Bradders and his soldering iron, and a multitude of PMs to friendly forumites :cheers:
Anyone need any tips / help then use Jamiecarpenter's excellent write-up
or get in touch.I didn't bother with the repair cable, and confirm it's pin 39 (the fourth from the end of the block) - not pin 4 as per BMW instructions.
I did it !
Don't really know what I did, just followed the instructions to the letter and it all works and looks great !
A big thanks to all, I only went ahead with the purchase of my non-cruise 2006 3.0si after reading this topic on the forum.
All my recent cars have had cruise and until I saw how cheap & relatively easy it was to fit OEM cruise, I really didn't fancy buying a non-cruiser.
Thanks again to all who posted
Don't really know what I did, just followed the instructions to the letter and it all works and looks great !
A big thanks to all, I only went ahead with the purchase of my non-cruise 2006 3.0si after reading this topic on the forum.
All my recent cars have had cruise and until I saw how cheap & relatively easy it was to fit OEM cruise, I really didn't fancy buying a non-cruiser.
Thanks again to all who posted
Thanks jamiecarpenter for a great guide.
I picked up my stalk and wiring loom this morning and it was fitted before lunch
Fitted to 56 Plate 2.0l N46.
Points of note for others:
1) The blue cable that routes to the engine bay stays inside the box on the top right of the engine bay on the N46 engine. ( It looks like the other engines have a separate box in the engine bay for the DME. )
2) The DME ( Engine Management ) wiring is difficult ( when you dont know how ) to release. Pull the black "clip" on the short side of the DME and it will release a "holder". You want the one on the left, nearest the front of the car. Once the "holder" is released, you need two "terminal" screw drivers to release the 26 pin black connector. One in the space at the end of the connector, and one to move the small tab and the bottom of the connector. This lets the 26pin connector "slide" out of the "holder", then use the terminal driver to remove the "clip" on the holder so you can completely slide out the connector. NOTE: On the N46 engine Pin 4 already has a Blue / White cable, remove this ( and tape it up securely ) and insert the blue cable from the wiring loom as per the instructions ( using the conversion cable ).
:driving: Broom Broom
What to mod next .......
I picked up my stalk and wiring loom this morning and it was fitted before lunch
Fitted to 56 Plate 2.0l N46.
Points of note for others:
1) The blue cable that routes to the engine bay stays inside the box on the top right of the engine bay on the N46 engine. ( It looks like the other engines have a separate box in the engine bay for the DME. )
2) The DME ( Engine Management ) wiring is difficult ( when you dont know how ) to release. Pull the black "clip" on the short side of the DME and it will release a "holder". You want the one on the left, nearest the front of the car. Once the "holder" is released, you need two "terminal" screw drivers to release the 26 pin black connector. One in the space at the end of the connector, and one to move the small tab and the bottom of the connector. This lets the 26pin connector "slide" out of the "holder", then use the terminal driver to remove the "clip" on the holder so you can completely slide out the connector. NOTE: On the N46 engine Pin 4 already has a Blue / White cable, remove this ( and tape it up securely ) and insert the blue cable from the wiring loom as per the instructions ( using the conversion cable ).
:driving: Broom Broom
What to mod next .......
gmetcalf said:Thanks jamiecarpenter for a great guide.
I picked up my stalk and wiring loom this morning and it was fitted before lunch
Fitted to 56 Plate 2.0l N46.
Points of note for others:
1) The blue cable that routes to the engine bay stays inside the box on the top right of the engine bay on the N46 engine. ( It looks like the other engines have a separate box in the engine bay for the DME. )
2) The DME ( Engine Management ) wiring is difficult ( when you dont know how ) to release. Pull the black "clip" on the short side of the DME and it will release a "holder". You want the one on the left, nearest the front of the car. Once the "holder" is released, you need two "terminal" screw drivers to release the 26 pin black connector. One in the space at the end of the connector, and one to move the small tab and the bottom of the connector. This lets the 26pin connector "slide" out of the "holder", then use the terminal driver to remove the "clip" on the holder so you can completely slide out the connector. NOTE: On the N46 engine Pin 4 already has a Blue / White cable, remove this ( and tape it up securely ) and insert the blue cable from the wiring loom as per the instructions ( using the conversion cable ).
:driving: Broom Broom
What to mod next .......
Having just got the retrofit kit, thought I would check out all areas that may cause a problem with fitting, as the last thing I want is for the DME to go bang, due to poor wiring.
The main parts that I was unsure about were firstly the pin numbering system, for the pin locations on the X12 light switch connector, and the X60002 in the DME.
It was easy using a WDS disc to confirm how the pins are numbered.
My second concern was regarding the blue/white wire in pin 4 of X60002 in the DME. Again using the WDS disc, it seems that the Blue/White wire runs back to connector X6051, and then to X72 connector, on S28- the cruise control stalk.
It seems then, that disconnection, or even crimping into the blue/white wire will not cause any problems.
I hope this is the case, as I intend to install the Cruise within the next few days.