No Longer wanted for a low mileage 2006 - 2008 E85 N52 3.0 si Sport /M roadster in a silver / grey / medium blue btw

Hey Scott,

Sincere apologies for my post about home brew. I’ve caught up with this thread now.

Which car did you buy, do you have a link?
 
Zedebee said:
It sounds as though there is a little more going on there than you were expecting, Scott. It just goes to show that low mileage doesn’t necessarily equate to low problems, particularly on cars which are now 15+ years old.

I have a new cupholder but it sounds like you have already ordered one.
I am about to fit a new third brake light. I got it off eBay (c.£24). I’ve fitted one before, they are pretty easy.
It should be easy to track down the suspension squeak, although you may need another pair of ears closer to the action. Most rear suspension tasks are pretty easy, it’s worth checking the rear springs as they do get localised rust and snap (clearly visible with the wheel off).
No coolant is likely to be a hairline crack in the header tank. Fill it up and monitor. To replace, you’ll find a “how-to” on here somewhere.
Ask srhutch nicely for a cruise control loom, he makes a custom loom at a very reasonable price. You will need a stalk too, which seem to be cheapest from BMW at the moment at about £100.
RBM (Ross) in Hook is your go-to man for roof issues. In fact he’s probably your nearest and best Z4 specialist for servicing and maintenance too.
Bridgestone Potenza are the original fit run flats. Ditch them as soon as you can before they ditch you.

I hope others can help with the bits I’ve missed. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Hi Ben, thanks ever so for your help and support as ever! I am still running through the car and have just found the oil level button nd it's functionality along with all the other multifunction buttons on the end of the stalk etc. , and just topped up with one litre of Castrol Edge 5 - 30 LL synthetic oil.

I am grateful for the heads up on our friendly mechanics, and will go there for more specialised help, I hope like yourself that I can do a lot of this myself, and am constantly grateful for further parts advice ms up port and videos, manuals links etc.

The most expensive bit I can see will be the change of tyres, got to have a look at these and they are the Bridgestone Potenzas, 285 on the rear, 255 on the front. The wheels so need a refurb, but they're not cracked and is all kerb rash but they're looking pretty sound otherwise. I've bought a self repair blow up can which is stowed in the boot, don't know how these factory specified run-flats work, I see they have a reinforced steel wall which presumably creates the droning sound! So if anyone's got a spanking new set of non Potenza wheels and tyres the same as mine but in perfect shape both wheels and tyres I may be interested in talking, but not looking to spend a lot on them, as in not £900, maybe a few hundred, Ben can you help me again with the wheel refurb / swapout place you showed me, I amanged to wipe all of my open windows on my phone which wasn't clever, and as it is Duck Duck Go the only down side is it doesn't keep history, as it also keeps me clean of being tracked in any way for annoying stuff!

I did remove the rear inner wheel arch liner at the front to access the infamout drain plug, despite taking out the two plastic hex screws and the nut it didn't want to pop out, with the mini mud flap below, but I managed to squeeze my hand in and removed the rubber and there was nothing to see, but would still like to get a rod up there to be sure! Hoping the roof motor issue is something simple, maybe a loose connector from when they replaced it 3 years ago, will be a half day set aside job for Monday perhaps!

So I haven't identified the way to remove ans check the solenoid for the petrol flap licking yet, the rubber has departed from the dangly bit attaching the filler cap to the moulding, am not sure if that means I have to replace the filler cap as well or if I can just buy the relevant piece of disintegrated rubber round piece, it seems such a waste to have to do anything more!

Will let you know about cup holder, thanks for asking, how much do you want for it if I find the Chinese one is no good (only found out afterwards it was Chinese manufactured!

Is it true the rear spoiler brake light can be found in white with red internals? On this subject are there any neat replacements for the tungsten bulbs around the car with relevant colour temperature led versions aka brake bulbs, rear fogs, indicators I including side , side lights, internal bulbs, number plate bulbs, I hate the idea of finding these popping and creating an attraction to myself (and the police!) unnecessarily? Anyone got any restoration / work plans this weekend on thir Zeds?
 
Scott Naylor said:
Zedebee said:
It sounds as though there is a little more going on there than you were expecting, Scott. It just goes to show that low mileage doesn’t necessarily equate to low problems, particularly on cars which are now 15+ years old.

I have a new cupholder but it sounds like you have already ordered one.
I am about to fit a new third brake light. I got it off eBay (c.£24). I’ve fitted one before, they are pretty easy.
It should be easy to track down the suspension squeak, although you may need another pair of ears closer to the action. Most rear suspension tasks are pretty easy, it’s worth checking the rear springs as they do get localised rust and snap (clearly visible with the wheel off).
No coolant is likely to be a hairline crack in the header tank. Fill it up and monitor. To replace, you’ll find a “how-to” on here somewhere.
Ask srhutch nicely for a cruise control loom, he makes a custom loom at a very reasonable price. You will need a stalk too, which seem to be cheapest from BMW at the moment at about £100.
RBM (Ross) in Hook is your go-to man for roof issues. In fact he’s probably your nearest and best Z4 specialist for servicing and maintenance too.
Bridgestone Potenza are the original fit run flats. Ditch them as soon as you can before they ditch you.

I hope others can help with the bits I’ve missed. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Hi Ben, thanks ever so for your help and support as ever! I am still running through the car and have just found the oil level button nd it's functionality along with all the other multifunction buttons on the end of the stalk etc. , and just topped up with one litre of Castrol Edge 5 - 30 LL synthetic oil.

I am grateful for the heads up on our friendly mechanics, and will go there for more specialised help, I hope like yourself that I can do a lot of this myself, and am constantly grateful for further parts advice ms up port and videos, manuals links etc.

The most expensive bit I can see will be the change of tyres, got to have a look at these and they are the Bridgestone Potenzas, 285 on the rear, 255 on the front. The wheels so need a refurb, but they're not cracked and is all kerb rash but they're looking pretty sound otherwise. I've bought a self repair blow up can which is stowed in the boot, don't know how these factory specified run-flats work, I see they have a reinforced steel wall which presumably creates the droning sound! So if anyone's got a spanking new set of non Potenza wheels and tyres the same as mine but in perfect shape both wheels and tyres I may be interested in talking, but not looking to spend a lot on them, as in not £900, maybe a few hundred, Ben can you help me again with the wheel refurb / swapout place you showed me, I amanged to wipe all of my open windows on my phone which wasn't clever, and as it is Duck Duck Go the only down side is it doesn't keep history, as it also keeps me clean of being tracked in any way for annoying stuff!

I did remove the rear inner wheel arch liner at the front to access the infamout drain plug, despite taking out the two plastic hex screws and the nut it didn't want to pop out, with the mini mud flap below, but I managed to squeeze my hand in and removed the rubber and there was nothing to see, but would still like to get a rod up there to be sure! Hoping the roof motor issue is something simple, maybe a loose connector from when they replaced it 3 years ago, will be a half day set aside job for Monday perhaps!

So I haven't identified the way to remove ans check the solenoid for the petrol flap licking yet, the rubber has departed from the dangly bit attaching the filler cap to the moulding, am not sure if that means I have to replace the filler cap as well or if I can just buy the relevant piece of disintegrated rubber round piece, it seems such a waste to have to do anything more!

Will let you know about cup holder, thanks for asking, how much do you want for it if I find the Chinese one is no good (only found out afterwards it was Chinese manufactured!

Is it true the rear spoiler brake light can be found in white with red internals? On this subject are there any neat replacements for the tungsten bulbs around the car with relevant colour temperature led versions aka brake bulbs, rear fogs, indicators I including side , side lights, internal bulbs, number plate bulbs, I hate the idea of finding these popping and creating an attraction to myself (and the police!) unnecessarily? Anyone got any restoration / work plans this weekend on thir Zeds?
Click to expand...

BTW as I paid thousands less than the asking none of these smaller matters are 'unexpected'
and I had reassurances about the history of the car, and had been in the family for ten years, passed from mother to son, and only used max 1500 miles a year fro round town driving seemingly for both mother and son, and the odd run out which I guess is why with just 32,000 miles the car doesn't even feel 'opened up' or run in!

Ooh can you let me have your leather seats restoration info again, lost as with other, the car is a deep wine red and is gorgeous just needs attention on feeding rhe leather on drivers side squab where getting in and out all the time. Am getting into the right technique for getting out of the car, a bit like racing sailing with a tiny bunk space, either that or I am getting older (yes comments please ha ha!). Should I say 'elegantly'!!
 
Good to hear you found a car without the usual massive miles / price combo that we see so much lately.

- The centre break light can be bought in red or clear, chioce is yours and costs the same
- LED bulbs can be used for number plate lights etc, plenty on ebay as long as they don't generate the bus error (it always lists them with that statement if they are suitable). The rear brake lights are already LED so you can't change that. The sides you probably can, the roundals with the lights just twist off as they have a bajonet fitting.

The run flats don't need a can by the way, even when no air you can still drive on them (read - wreck them). But good to have the cans when you swap to normal tyres.
 
pvr said:
Good to hear you found a car without the usual massive miles / price combo that we see so much lately.

- The centre break light can be bought in red or clear, chioce is yours and costs the same
- LED bulbs can be used for number plate lights etc, plenty on ebay as long as they don't generate the bus error (it always lists them with that statement if they are suitable). The rear brake lights are already LED so you can't change that. The sides you probably can, the roundals with the lights just twist off as they have a bajonet fitting.

The run flats don't need a can by the way, even when no air you can still drive on them (read - wreck them). But good to have the cans when you swap to normal tyres.
Click to expand...

That's especially helpful to know about the run-flats, but always like to have a can and can help anyone else in trouble so long as sidewall not ripped out!

Good to know about brake lights as LED's, I am guessing they were just coming in in 2007, but mot generally affordable at that time, so well done California, if that's where they were assembled / built! Strange the front headlamp has one in a special floating lense and the other is a tungsten one!!

Now I've been told to ask you very nicely about a loom for installing cruise control on mine?! 🙏
 
Nope, that would be srhutch - not me :D

I did the satnav retrofits, but my cars already had cruise so never had to fit that one.
 
Yes, [ref]srhutch[/ref] as per my earlier post!

Servicing/maintenance and roof - RBM, Hook
Wheel refurb exchange - Oxford Performance Autos (web or eBay)
(I have a rough set of MV1s which would work as donors)

You are running MV2s with very large tyres, they are normally 225 fronts and 255 rears. You should be able to pick up a good set of wheels and tyres you like the look of for about £400. There’s always a few sets for sale on here and lots on eBay or look up Simon Ireland on the Z4 owners Facebook group.

The Chinese cupholder replicas are supposed to be quite good, but let me know if yours doesn’t work. I have a pair of OEMs, which are probably made in China also (!) but I’d like to sell them together.

Regarding the fuel filler solenoid, if you can’t find a “how to” on here, try contacting [ref]W63[/ref] who has done one very recently.

Enjoy the weekend :D
 
Greeno said:
Scott Naylor said:
Hi there, really appreciate your shout out, looks a lovely car. However I am looking for one with a lot less miles on it. I would be tempted if the engine needed replacing but then I'd be looking at a donor car with a lighter price tag! Thanks again. GLWTS thumbs-up :-)
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:

I thought 89k was pretty low for a 16 year old car.

Whilst there are still a few garage queens out there, you might be in hen's teeth territory.
Click to expand...

Yes,it is Greeno, only about 5,500 miles per year.
 
Scott Naylor said:
pvr said:
Good to hear you found a car without the usual massive miles / price combo that we see so much lately.

- The centre break light can be bought in red or clear, chioce is yours and costs the same
- LED bulbs can be used for number plate lights etc, plenty on ebay as long as they don't generate the bus error (it always lists them with that statement if they are suitable). The rear brake lights are already LED so you can't change that. The sides you probably can, the roundals with the lights just twist off as they have a bajonet fitting.

The run flats don't need a can by the way, even when no air you can still drive on them (read - wreck them). But good to have the cans when you swap to normal tyres.
Click to expand...

That's especially helpful to know about the run-flats, but always like to have a can and can help anyone else in trouble so long as sidewall not ripped out!

Good to know about brake lights as LED's, I am guessing they were just coming in in 2007, but mot generally affordable at that time, so well done California, if that's where they were assembled / built! Strange the front headlamp has one in a special floating lense and the other is a tungsten one!!

Now I've been told to ask you very nicely about a loom for installing cruise control on mine?! 🙏
Click to expand...

So what's the mileage on what you bought,and any Photos?
Re the 3rd Brake light on boot lid , it's best bought from BMW,imho,as I know people have bought them off eBay etc,but there can be good and bad ones,so can be hit or miss.
Although,in saying that,BMW ones are prone to cracking too, although that's sometimes down to being overtightened.

Enjoy the z :driving:
Looking forward to seeing the pics
 
Zedebee said:
Yes, [ref]srhutch[/ref] as per my earlier post!

Servicing/maintenance and roof - RBM, Hook
Wheel refurb exchange - Oxford Performance Autos (web or eBay)
(I have a rough set of MV1s which would work as donors)

You are running MV2s with very large tyres, they are normally 225 fronts and 255 rears. You should be able to pick up a good set of wheels and tyres you like the look of for about £400. There’s always a few sets for sale on here and lots on eBay or look up Simon Ireland on the Z4 owners Facebook group.

The Chinese cupholder replicas are supposed to be quite good, but let me know if yours doesn’t work. I have a pair of OEMs, which are probably made in China also (!) but I’d like to sell them together.

Regarding the fuel filler solenoid, if you can’t find a “how to” on here, try contacting [ref]W63[/ref] who has done one very recently.

Enjoy the weekend :D
Click to expand...
Hi Scott, to replace the filler Solenoid you need to remove the rear wheel arch lining, which can be a little tricky to get out. The solenoid is held in with two torx screws. I would recommend a good head torch as it is very fiddly and access is limited. A lot of this is done by feeling rather than seeing. Defiantly a DIY job so good luck. Wayne.
👍
 
Hi Wayne thanks that is very helpful and kind of you to reply with the advice. I've had fun with the nearside rear wheel arch lining already as I was investigating if the well above is full of water, Zebedee Ben has sent me a detailed exploded diagram as I got to the first top three securing and couldn't find the other ones, I need a bit more time, patience, axle stands and hydraulic jack, which I have yet to purchase. If anyone has any of this and no longer needs it and lives reasonably locally in South West London or Surrey I am in Twickenham TW1 2PD I would be interested to hear, I would want some tall stands and a good height lifting jack.

Many thanks again. The replacement has arrived so need to test then fit, it cost £10 from a breaker and is warrantied to be working.
 
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