New E85 3.0i owner

Hi rjsimmons and Dev, yea the MX-5 (which is the orange bronze one) or Eunos Roadster (the matte BRG one) is a really small car but it is extremely nimble, communicative and a joy to drive at any speeds :D

I will be carrying out the grease mod on the steering column soon and will take pics of the end result for sure!
 
Finally did my first engine bay detailing for the Z4 on Xmas day:
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In pretty good shape, no valve cover oil leak, DISA in good shape. All fluid levels holding steady after the initial baseline service. Waiting for the VANOS repair kit to arrive and will do preventive maintenance on it although the engine is performing admirably still.

Only problem is the bonnet switch is disconnected and the actual switch itself is broken. Appears the alarm is bypassed/non-functional hmm..
 
Fine tuned alignment after replacing the blown absorbers and allowing the ride to settle down after 2 days:
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Also fixed the permanently on rear console light due to the broken plastic tab that is supposed to be in contact with the microswitch when the lid is closed.
 
Well the common orange solid light on when attempting to drop the top has occurred...The metal lever has dropped off the rear parcel shelf microswitch by wearing off the plastic surfaces that held it in place:
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Re-installed the lever and braced the connecting points with sticky tape to provide additional support yet still be flexible for it to move around its range of motion:
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Let's hope this is a permanent fix without splurging $$ for a new switch:
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"Fixed the permanently on rear console light due to the broken plastic tab that is supposed to be in contact with the microswitch when the lid is closed."


If you mean the light in the centre cubby mine is always on with the ignition. I thought this was normal.

Welcome and great looking Zed by the way.
 
Hiya!

I am referring to the two tiered compartment where the CD changer resides. The light inside is supposed to come on only when the console lid is open.
 
If you do a serch on here for sticky steering you will see it's quite common if the car has been sitting out in the sun.
Easiest thing to try first is to spray some oil around the Uj,s on the steering colum,if that does not work you put a grease nipple in the colum housing to lubricate the bush.[/i

The latest, and it appears the correct, remedy is to very slightly back off the locking wheel that controls the engagement between steering shaft cog and electric motor cog (which is a worm wheel). The theory is that, during assembly, the technician, in rare cases, has tightened this to the tight end of the tolerance which can subsequently cause the sticky steering in very hot conditions, as the necessary slack is no longer present. The age old remedy of introducing lubricant has obviously eased this binding but does not work in all cases and is really treating the symptom, not the cause. The locking wheel is tightened down by two 6mm bolts which go through two machined out slots in the wheel. These slots allow adjustment clockwise and anticlockwise. Apparently the adjustment required is small, so it is wise to mark the original position before slackening off the 6mm bolts. There is plenty written on this fix on the German forums, some of which have photos and illustrations.
 
Thank you very much for posting this! Unfortunately I can't speak or read German so wouldn't have been able to find this info :)

Do you have the link for this fix that you care to share so at least I can view the photos/illustrations? I believe it would help a lot of pre-facelift E85 owners in the future!
 
owm said:
Thank you very much for posting this! Unfortunately I can't speak or read German so wouldn't have been able to find this info Do you have the link for this fix that you care to share so at least I can view the photos/illustrations? I believe it would help a lot of pre-facelift E85 owners in the future!


PM sent to you.
 
Received my Konnwei KW820 OBD2 scanner to be exclusively used on the Z4 since my other rides are OBD1 compliant only :)

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Carried out a long overdue servicing of the A/C system:
1. Renew compressor oil
2. Re-gassing the system
3. Cleaning the condenser
4. Replacing the A/C drier/filter
5. Replacing the cabin filter


The consumables:
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You have been a busy bee!

I have done the A/C servicing in my Jeep and did one on a Corvette a long while back, have yet to need to do so on the Z.
 
In the sweltering climate we have here, a working AC is critical! :) Likely the system has never been serviced before so would rather err on side of caution.

Have yet to carry out the steering column repair due to lack of slots available at the mechanic but hope to do so by early Jan 2016 although the car has already clocked 2000km+ since we got it in early Dec.


Found out the car also has squeaky driver seat which we will be trying the solution here:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/196927-fix-seat-cushion-squeak-against-control-cover.html

There is also an annoying amount of wind (but not water) entering the cabin at speeds above 120km/h so will be attempting the following advice given:
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=74331&p=1093706&hilit=Window+alignment#p1091688

Lastly gonna replace the failing EC side mirror glasses and rear view mirror this weekend since the replacement units have arrived :)
 
Undertook the task of replacing the electrochromatic (EC) wing and rear view mirrors which were in various states of failing by purchasing an E87 rear view mirror that had an unblemished EC glass and blue glass/heated side mirrors (non-EC since the high temperatures in our climate will likely reduce their lifespan).


Excellent reference material provided by fellow forum members here:
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=82873
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=68814
http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=51630

Current state of rear view mirror versus donor unit from an E87:
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Cannibalised the EC glass from the E87 to be fitted it into the original rear view mirror housing:
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Replacement blue glass/heated mirror pad in the bottom. Direct replacement and didn't have the finicky latching mechanism that the factory piece came with:
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Just cable-tied the now unused EC connector one side and hooked up the wires for the heating element.
 
Installed the Smartop module which I have seen in the Mazda MX-5 NC version and find it useful to have 1 touch roof operation, ability to operate the roof without coming to a complete stop (good when there are sudden downpours which are common here) and also ability to drop the windows to cool the car down after parking in the sun.

Only four items in the package:
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Installation is pretty straight forward although I found it a bit hard to remove the original BMW control module due to the tight access and trouble gaining sufficient cable slack. Took me I think around 20min to install because of that.

Neat, tidy and trouble-free install:
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Had to put in the work to satisfy my OCD :P But truly, the car needed and deserved some TLC. I am nearly done with repair/maintenance work save for VANOS rebuild and steering column 'sticky' preventive mod/fix.

My attention is now on solving the squeaky driver seat bottom and wind noise entry at higher speeds (already reset the window position and cleaned plus applied grease on the rubber mouldings for tighter seal).
 
There have been days of torrential rain here and the consequence of that is we discovered the carpet under the velour mat at the passenger side was wet. A quick search showed that the most likely problem was the weather shielding membrane under the inner door panels had been compromised so this necessitated the opening up of the passenger inner door trim panel.

Upon removal of the panel, it was obvious various points on the foam membrane had been cut previously:
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Rain water was entering the cabin through this major slit here:
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Good old-fashioned duct tape was liberally applied on all sections that had long cuts compromising the membrane's integrity:
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Problem solved.
 
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