N52 DISA Valve Replacement Problem

AnubisZed

Senior member
Lincolnshire, UK
We all have our forte, and mine is definitely not car mechanicals! :headbang:
But saying that I try to do my research beforehand and give stuff a go, although I do appreciate I'm not going to win at certain things so I'll leave it to an expert.

So I've had a DISA Valve fault code come up on my 23i (N52N), so looked around the internet to see how difficult a job it might be. Found a few videos and it looked relatively straightforward, so I ordered the parts.
Might I add at this point that none of the videos on YouTube were specifically for the Z4 E89, but they were for the N52N engine.
Parts arrived, so I set about doing this last Saturday. I followed the guide and took stuff apart, and eventually got the new valves in place and put everything back together.
Started the car, and she died, started again and then died again. Started a third time and she ran very rough then died!
I could get her to run by keeping the revs up and eventually, after a few minutes, she'd settle down and run OK (ish).
Initially I was thinking that when I put the small DISA in (the one on the inside of the intake manifold) the new one was closed but the old one was open, so it could have been this. With INPA you can open and close the valves, so I did this, disconnected the plug, shut everything down, reconnected the plug and went to start the car... same again, so that wasn't it. My only option was to put the original small one back in, working on the assumption that the new one was faulty (incidentally the fault code was for the larger valve, so replacing the smaller one was just preventative). As I stripped everything back down and finally removed the valve I spotted the issue.
There is a crank case emissions system pipe that connects in two places on the inside of the intake manifold, there is one connection that is directly below the small DISA and sticks up to a Tee connection to run forward to the second connection. It seems from the videos I watched, as there was no mention of this second connection, and thus not needing to be the Tee piece (so a direct run from the crankcase to the intake manifold), this isn't an issue to other cars, but is a massive issue for the E89 in getting the small valve out without removing the intake manifold.

In the attached photo (not my car), it shows the small DISA valve (green arrow) and the connection point for the offending connection (blue arrow). So my issue was that, in trying to get the DISA out, I'd managed to snap this connection and thus the rough running. So the only option I now have is to remove the intake manifold and replace the pipe complete, and in the meantime run the car as-is (everything is now back together).
I've also attached a photo of the new pipe with the same blue arrow for reference.

So for anyone who needs to do this in the future, don't try to go down the "easy" route of not removing the intake manifold, as most How-To's and videos tell you! There are consequences to this short-cut!
 

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Well the replacement pipe arrived yesterday so I got on with replacing it. It's a relatively straightforward job to remove the intake manifold, and the whole job took about an hour to complete. The first press of the Start button and it instantly fired up and ran as smooth as glass :thumbsup:

I might throw together a (retrospective) How-To, if anyone is interested, for the whole DISA replacement.
 
Just had to Google to find out what a DISA valve is and now I know. Do you know Dave, if it’s something that is bound to fail eventually over time or just if you’re unlucky?
 
therealmc said:
Just had to Google to find out what a DISA valve is and now I know. Do you know Dave, if it’s something that is bound to fail eventually over time or just if you’re unlucky?

It will fail eventually! Mine were the original ones and it was only that I had a fault code that I looked into it. TBF it was the easier, outer, one that was bringing up the code but I decided to replace both anyway, just in case.
The issue is that, as they are all plastic, they can wear from constant turning all the time. This can leave them loose and the potential to remain slightly open, thus you wont be running at your best. There is the worst case scenario where something can break off and then it's a direct route into one of the cylinders, and we all know what's going to happen then!! :headbang: :thumbsdown:

When I removed mine there was a very small amount of play in the one with the code, but that was it, the other one was perfectly fine.
Like I say though, it's a relatively straightforward job to do, with the only special tool that's required being a T25 Torx bit. I did also use a T60 to release the Fan belt, but this isn't required now as you'd be removing the intake manifold, hence to need to remove the alternator for access.
 
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