Myth or truth? Big engines question

I would always go by 10/15 miles minimum regardless of engine size to get the engine upto maximum operating temperature and sooner you move off from cold the better.

I'm always betwixed when storing a car over the winter months that it's really doing it much good verses exposure to the elements, salt etc. The engine might be in fine fettle but sitting in a rusty shell or vice versa. Once my M140i is stored its not started again unless I know it will go out on at least a 45 minute run to heat everything up. Not just condensation in the engine if that's still a factor these days but water sitting in the exhaust system etc.

I think idling a cold engine is the worst thing you can do unless cooling down after hard use.

Tim.
 
BeeEmm said:
I have read on this forum, that a lot of people start the engine, then leave the car to 'warm up' before moving away. I always believed that this was wrong and that you should drive of immediately with reasonably low revs in each gear. I have also read the manufacturers instructions which advised the same.

With the S54 engine now running 10/60W oil the oil pressure at start up is very high over 120pis even in the summer so it is wise to let it tick over until the oil warms a little and thins out a bit and the oil pressure drops

Mine will start from cold (Cool summers morning) and the oi pressure will go round to 120 psi then after a minute it will start falling to around 60psi Takes a further couple of minuets at this time the water temp is around 40degC (remember you are only warming the thin layer of water around the block) after a couple more minuets I will drive the car with light load and a max of 3,000rpm until the oil is at normal temp, at this point the oil pressure is around 20psi at tick over the BMW red lights around the rev counter have long since gone off (way tooo early if you look at the other temps and pressures) The red lights where probably designed for the cars first set of rod bearings when it ran thinner oil etc.
 
mgrlane said:
Is that the case? Is it an electric car that gets assisted by a combustion engine?
The electric motor will run completely on it's own for about 25 miles at lowish speeds and gentle acceleration or less distance if you accelerate a little harder. The car can be set to 'Electric Only' in these situations. If it is set to 'Hybrid' then as you say, the petrol engine will take over when you accelerate quickly or 'kick down'. In 'Sport' mode it uses only the petrol engine.
 
Pondrew said:
Chris_D said:
Kinell fella, I think you're missing my point and the same point somebody else made that ALL engines, no matter what size will need to reach optimum operating conditions before any detrimental phenomena occurs.
The simplest/dumbest way to measure if a 'big' engine is going to suffer more on the same journey as a smaller engine is to drive the journey in both cars the journey and see if the temp gauge reaches the middle position - usually assumed as the optimum operating temp.
If they both do, no problem! If they don't, well there's your answer.
So your answer is to conduct a very expensive and long-winded experiment?
Thanks, I'll think about it. :thumbsup:
If you think driving 30 minutes to the same destination in both cars is ‘very expensive and long-winded’ then I would suggest with all sincerity that you don’t forget to clean up the broken pieces of your piggybank after raiding it for the petrol money. Also don’t forget to pack some sandwiches and a flask for that super long journey!
:roll:
 
Given the same atmospheric conditions, how quickly a car warms up is dependant on two things, the first is how much energy you put in and the second is how much mass there is to heat up (there are others like thermal efficiency etcetera, but let’s keep it simple as modern engines are quite thermally efficient). An easy way to determine heat input is by how much fuel you can burn and thus BHP is a good indicator. You can have two engines producing 300 BHP, one is a 2L turbo charged four cylinder and the other is 4L V8. Obviously the mass of the four cylinder is going to be two thirds of the mass of the V8 and as such the four cylinder will get to operating temperature sooner.

However that is not it though, to get 300 BHP from a 2L the engine is going to be stressed more than the 4L V8 and even though it takes longer to reach operating conditions it’s life will be longer.
 
sars said:
Given the same atmospheric conditions, how quickly a car warms up is dependant on two things, the first is how much energy you put in and the second is how much mass there is to heat up (there are others like thermal efficiency etcetera, but let’s keep it simple as modern engines are quite thermally efficient). An easy way to determine heat input is by how much fuel you can burn and thus BHP is a good indicator. You can have two engines producing 300 BHP, one is a 2L turbo charged four cylinder and the other is 4L V8. Obviously the mass of the four cylinder is going to be two thirds of the mass of the V8 and as such the four cylinder will get to operating temperature sooner.

However that is not it though, to get 300 BHP from a 2L the engine is going to be stressed more than the 4L V8 and even though it takes longer to reach operating conditions it’s life will be longer.

[ref]sars[/ref], I was waiting for your answer and hoping I could understand it :rofl:

As an aside, the M40i water temperature takes very little time to go from COLD to normal, much quicker than the 35iS.
 
Argyll Andy said:
sars said:
Given the same atmospheric conditions, how quickly a car warms up is dependant on two things, the first is how much energy you put in and the second is how much mass there is to heat up (there are others like thermal efficiency etcetera, but let’s keep it simple as modern engines are quite thermally efficient). An easy way to determine heat input is by how much fuel you can burn and thus BHP is a good indicator. You can have two engines producing 300 BHP, one is a 2L turbo charged four cylinder and the other is 4L V8. Obviously the mass of the four cylinder is going to be two thirds of the mass of the V8 and as such the four cylinder will get to operating temperature sooner.

However that is not it though, to get 300 BHP from a 2L the engine is going to be stressed more than the 4L V8 and even though it takes longer to reach operating conditions it’s life will be longer.

[ref]sars[/ref], I was waiting for your answer and hoping I could understand it :rofl:

As an aside, the M40i water temperature takes very little time to go from COLD to normal, much quicker than the 35iS.

You failed to mention that you did though :lol:

……the only way I can make it easier to understand is if I use crayons :P

as an aside is it an oil or coolant gauge in the M40i? The difference being that oil tends to take longer than the coolant to indicate temperature and that could be the difference.
 
sars said:
Argyll Andy said:
sars said:
Given the same atmospheric conditions, how quickly a car warms up is dependant on two things, the first is how much energy you put in and the second is how much mass there is to heat up (there are others like thermal efficiency etcetera, but let’s keep it simple as modern engines are quite thermally efficient). An easy way to determine heat input is by how much fuel you can burn and thus BHP is a good indicator. You can have two engines producing 300 BHP, one is a 2L turbo charged four cylinder and the other is 4L V8. Obviously the mass of the four cylinder is going to be two thirds of the mass of the V8 and as such the four cylinder will get to operating temperature sooner.

However that is not it though, to get 300 BHP from a 2L the engine is going to be stressed more than the 4L V8 and even though it takes longer to reach operating conditions it’s life will be longer.

[ref]sars[/ref], I was waiting for your answer and hoping I could understand it :rofl:

As an aside, the M40i water temperature takes very little time to go from COLD to normal, much quicker than the 35iS.

You failed to mention that you did though :lol:

……the only way I can make it easier to understand is if I use crayons :P

as an aside is it an oil or coolant gauge in the M40i? The difference being that oil tends to take longer than the coolant to indicate temperature and that could be the difference.

Yes I’d did :thumbsup: , for once :tumbleweed:

Yes a water temp gauge on the M40i but even so seems really quick to get to temp. Loaner was the same so not specific to mine.
 
Argyll Andy said:
Yes a water temp gauge on the M40i but even so seems really quick to get to temp. Loaner was the same so not specific to mine.
It will be quicker cos it's new too. More friction in a new engine, while it 'beds in' and grinds off all that excess metal. :D
 
Pondrew said:
Argyll Andy said:
Yes a water temp gauge on the M40i but even so seems really quick to get to temp. Loaner was the same so not specific to mine.
It will be quicker cos it's new too. More friction in a new engine, while it 'beds in' and grinding off all that excess metal. :D

The sympathetic first 1200 miles it was treated too will hopefully help.

Have you had any of you recent purchases for 1200 miles :poke: :rofl:
 
Argyll Andy said:
Have you had any of you recent purchases for 1200 miles
No. Not even close. :D
Had the Z4 for just under 10 months and it's done 950 miles. Another 3 years and it will up to 30k. Time for the scrap heap! :D
 
Pondrew said:
Argyll Andy said:
Have you had any of you recent purchases for 1200 miles
No. Not even close. :D
Had the Z4 for just under 10 months and it's done 950 miles. Another 3 years and it will up to 30k. Time for the scrap heap! :D

Had mine for 14 weeks 2933 miles and around another 1 next weekend on a forum run :D

You should definitely get something like an M3/4/6. Fuel consumption and running costs aren’t going to matter in the slightest bit and with such minimal mileage going on to it resale should be pretty cost neutral :thumbsup:
 
I have a rule - if the car isn’t going to get up to running temperature,it does not get started.
 
Argyll Andy said:
You should definitely get something like an M3/4/6. Fuel consumption and running costs aren’t going to matter in the slightest bit and with such minimal mileage going on to it resale should be pretty cost neutral
I keep coming back to the M6 but they have still a long way to fall depreciation wise in the future. They are not exactly being fought over either ATM.
Part of my problem (and I have many) is I'm a fussy f*cker when it comes to cars. I am really struggling to find any cars which have actually been looked after. I think the M cars are not good in this respect, as they seem to be a "get it out of my system" or "bucket list" cars. People seem to have them for a year, rag the arse out of them and move them on for the next person to do the same.
I'm actually getting fed up with looking.

I was really lucky with the E89 (and it was luck as I bought it blind during lockdown). It is a really good one; but It's a different demographic market to the modern M cars.
 
Argyll Andy said:
As an aside, the M40i water temperature takes very little time to go from COLD to normal, much quicker than the 35iS.

Do the gauges display Water Temp now?
 
ronk said:
Argyll Andy said:
As an aside, the M40i water temperature takes very little time to go from COLD to normal, much quicker than the 35iS.

Do the gauges display Water Temp now?

Yes, they do Ron
 

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That’s a change!
I thought bmw had fallen firmly on the side of oil temp these days?

The symbol on the E89 shows an oil can with thermometer to signify oil temp but your picture only shows a rep car?
 
ronk said:
I have a rule - if the car isn’t going to get up to running temperature,it does not get started.

If that’s the case do you then go out on your mobility scooter :D
 
sars said:
ronk said:
I have a rule - if the car isn’t going to get up to running temperature,it does not get started.

If that’s the case do you then go out on your mobility scooter :D

When the time comes, and I fear it might, it will be as close to a hooligan variety as possible !
 
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