My Second Zed Thread (2010 E89 sDrive30i)

Silverstar said:
Your car is now looking great by the way
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Thank you :) just going to enjoy it for a while now I finally have it insured and on the road (cruise control aside, which is sitting in the garage waiting to fit) but I'm sure I'll be thinking about a few mods sooner rather than later.
 
Actually I suppose a remap may add a bit more power to an N52 E89 than an E86, seeing as the E89 got a 255 bhp version of the engine but the E86 got a 261 bhp version. According to Wiki there was a 268 bhp version as well that was used for the E92/3, X3 and X5.

I imagine the only difference between the three is the mapping.

Anyway OP, your car is certainly looking better now. :thumbsup:
 
Well, this weekend was an experience :D

Cruise control fitting time, started out all confident - managed to get hold of the parts below for £55 off Ebay, which is very reasonable seeing as just the cruise control stalk alone goes for around £80 for the E85.

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Basically followed Dave's (AnubisZed) excellent guide/video on these very forums (here) - but hit a good number of snags along the way. With hindsight, I don't think Dave charges too much for the full install including parts so for the grief I pretty much caused myself I wish I'd booked in with him to sort it for me. Good excuse for a drive too.

So, stuck at the first hurdle - couldn't remove the airbag. Not obvious from Dave's video, but when clicking off both sides of the airbag your screwdriver needs to be almost facing straight up - after finding another video on YouTube (this one - first 60 seconds is all you need) I had it off without issue.

Got the new stalks swapped over and everything reassembled (getting the steering cowl back together is tricky and I managed to cut myself on the plastic a couple of times), only to find my airbag didn't fit - grrr. The connector on the new stalks is very slightly different: (I think I was just unlucky here, as checking Ebay again all of the pictures show parts that are identical to the one that I took off my car)

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This had be instantly worried that I'd managed to buy the wrong part :cry: but I took everything back apart, swapped over the slip ring from my original part, finished reassembling everything and powered up the car. I received the expected warnings as the new codings hadn't been applied yet, but also an airbag warning light and the horn had stopped working. This made me even more positive that I'd got hold of an incompatible part.

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Ploughing on, I grabbed the laptop I've had up and running and have performed several codings on my E85 successfully, ready to code the E89.

Going through all the issues I then faced in the next few hours would be really boring, so here's some handy tips for other coding relative newbies:

1) My K+DCAN cable needed an additional adapter to work on my E85 (I believe something to do with bridging 2 of the pins to be compatible with earlier cars - some cables have a switch to bridge/unbridge). I initially used the same adapter in the E89 and had a confirmed power/ignition connection showing in INPA - but was then unable to read anything from the car. Trial and error (i.e. ditching the adapter) then brought success and I was able to read the ECUs.

2) Dave's guide will walk you through several steps to get the software up and running with required files. The MEGA link to the daten files is has now been removed, so you'll need to search around for an alternative. You also need to use 'BMW coding tool' to update the daten files used - I received an error when using this initially, complaining about the file 'MSCOMCTL.OCX'. The answer is here if you get the same issue.

3) My car already had the 'updated' value set in the first coding step - which I still don't fully understand. Specifically, my value of ‘TEMPOMAT_SETZ_ANZ_DAUER' was already set to 'wert_02'.

4) Dave uses the NCSExpert profile called 'Expertmodus (offen)' in his video when actually writing new codings to the car (this is the 'manipulation' profile) - but even though the 'pfl' file is called this, the settings for the profile mean it shows up in NCSExpert as something completely different (something like 'FSW-PSW MAN') which I now understand, but had me stumped for a while.

5) I then received errors when actually trying to write the new codings - exactly the same error as described here and also the same fix - after changing the latency of the serial port on my laptop to 1 (it was set at 16) the coding errors went away and I completed the guide successfully.

Took the car round the block, cruise control working perfectly - result.

I then thought it would be worth popping the wheel off again just to double check all was well visually with the airbag - sure enough, I found one of the connectors underneath the slip ring was just hanging there, so I must have not pushed it fully home when reconnecting everything up. Schoolboy error.

Now I had a working horn again :D but the airbag light was still showing. I've had to clear many airbag lights on my E85 using INPA, but as the only chassis option available is E90 all the module codes are different, so it's a non starter. I was pleasantly surprised to find that Carly will happily clear an airbag light however on the E89, as this is 100% not possible on the E85.

So finally, after lots of head scratching, panicking that I'd coded something incorrectly and resigning myself to booking in with Dave to sort all my problems out - everything is now working.

What a disaster.

Huge thanks to Dave though. By the time I'd actually figured out everything I needed to figure out, I simply followed the Youtube video completely to complete the coding and would have been lost without it.
 
Hats off for completing all that programming malarkey, I’m also impressed that Carly managed to clear the airbag light as I’ve read several times that it isn’t capable of this :thumbsup:
Rob
 
Changed the salmon red roof relays today.

No real reason, other than seeing it mentioned in a few places as a sensible preventative maintenence task - and at £24 it's a no brainer.

These are the 2 that came out - the whole area is clean and dry so no concerns, visually at least.

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The 2 little seat handle torx bolt covers were both missing when I got the car. The off side one was found under the seat :thumbsup:, a new nearside one cost me £6 on Ebay.

Bit of butyl to keep them from dropping off again, looking a bit cleaner.

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Silverstar said:
Where did you get the salmon relays from? the stealers?
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Got mine from Ebay, 2 different sellers, 1 was £10 the other £14.

If £13.34 from the dealers though I'd go for that option.
 
Timmyboybunter said:
And the first fix completed too. The USB port in the arm rest wasn't working (the aux port was working fine). On closer examination the little plastic 'guide' bit inside the socket had been snapped off at some point and the 4 metal pins were all bent beyond repair.

I bought part number 9129651 off Ebay - which is different to the part number on the one I removed, 9138402. They are very similar however, just some different coloured plastic and the 'Aux In' text is reversed. Now able to stream music from a USB drive, so all working fine.

Original part: (now looking a bit shabby - rather than take everything apart I just pulled it out with long nose pliers seeing as it was broken anyway)
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Replacement part:
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I have to replace this exact part, is it easy to remove? I want to take it out to check the part number before purchasing a new one.
 
drewsutton said:
Timmyboybunter said:
And the first fix completed too. The USB port in the arm rest wasn't working (the aux port was working fine). On closer examination the little plastic 'guide' bit inside the socket had been snapped off at some point and the 4 metal pins were all bent beyond repair.

I bought part number 9129651 off Ebay - which is different to the part number on the one I removed, 9138402. They are very similar however, just some different coloured plastic and the 'Aux In' text is reversed. Now able to stream music from a USB drive, so all working fine.

Original part: (now looking a bit shabby - rather than take everything apart I just pulled it out with long nose pliers seeing as it was broken anyway)
20191102_233836.jpg

Replacement part:
s-l1600.jpg
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I have to replace this exact part, is it easy to remove? I want to take it out to check the part number before purchasing a new one.
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Hi, this should give you the correct part number :thumbsup:
https://www.realoem.com/
Rob
 
drewsutton said:
I have to replace this exact part, is it easy to remove? I want to take it out to check the part number before purchasing a new one.
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Depends - if you're going to replace anyway, yes just yank it out. It will pop out without damaging anything (it is designed to push in from the front) but it is impossible to grip it with enough force without damaging the socket itself this way - disassembly of the arm rest section would be required to be safe.

As Rob said, check real oem as there are a load of part numbers which have superseded the original over the years - and many others that are perfectly compatible (mine is from a mini!)
 
Tarzan said:
You don't do it yourself?
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Usually, I would yes - both to save money and because I find these kind of things interesting to do and understand. But, I was impatient to see whether the map update would work and for the sake of $9, concluded in this case I couldn't be bothered :driving:
 
Earlier in this thread I mentioned the ambient temperature sensor and the odd situation I found when investigating.

Well, clearly the original part did have a fault as it always read between 11 and 12 degrees regardless of the temperature (unlike the permanent 24 degrees when I got the car) and a couple of days ago it started reading a constant 50 degrees.

I also realised that the 'continental' part that was connected when I bought the car (the loose one) is actually from a Mercedes - still baffled.

Anyway, I bought a new part and fitted today - not OEM but 'Meyle' which seems a common choice, and was only £5.48. Temperature finally reading correctly, 8 degrees which agrees with the therometer in the garage.

Easy to do - just took some of the screws out of the arch liner (including 2 at the bottom) and there is enough room to get your hand in. The probe itself just pushes into place from inside the bumper - hard to remove from inside, so I just pushed it from underneath back into the bumper.

Pic below shows the lead already unplugged and lying on the bottom of the inside of the bumper, the probe connector is above it.

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Interesting week with the Zed - mostly in a good way :driving:

The new anbient temperature sensor is working fine, so good to know there is no issue with the wiring etc.

Finally had a chance to use the car for my work commute - so 330 mile round between Bristol and Derby. Car performed faultlessly, there is the slightest hint of a whine at motorway speeds but it's very faint and may just be normal drivetrain noises I'm usually tuned out of or drowning in music - one to keep an eye on.

Trip computer showed 34.8 mpg with another 60 miles range when I got back - so near enough a 400 mile range.

In all other aspects, it was a joy to be driving - better in almost every conceivable way than the E85 it replaced, but I think that is a sign of refining exactly what I'm looking for out of what is my 2nd car.

Radio is perfect, never dropped the signal once. Sat nav is great, though the colour of the highlighted route in white is hard to see (Google tells me this can't be changed easily). Lights are a revelation compare to the E85 halogens, hard top is quiet, rear visibility is nothing short of a miracle with the top up - terrible blind spot on the E85 left and right. Ground clearance is great, haven't scraped the front once since buying the car. No wheel wobbles or nasty noises, which is a miracle seeing as I fitted a random 2nd hand set of alloys which obviously have several wheel weights missing! The 8 iDrive shortcut buttons on the head unit are just a fantastic idea and I use them all the time (4 of them anyway: navigate home, navigate work, ring wife, play radio 2).

The only noticeable downfall is the handling, which is a bit bus like and wallowy - though mine is the non M-Sport version and my E85 did have the lower sport suspension. I'll take the additional comfort over the handling 9 times out of 10 however. I would be interested to see how the ride and ground clearance in mine compare to a M-Sport E89. I'm also not missing having a manual gearbox, which I thought would be the case.

Really enjoyed owning the E85 and I see exactly why people prefer their rawness to the E89 - but so far I love it.

Fitted a quick release Ctek harness in the boot for easier charging at the weekend (yes, ignoring advice about using the charging terminals in the front) and somehow managed to snap one of the battery clamp terminals when tightening back up - new one coming from Ebay.

Also noticed the battery is original, based on the date stamp on the negative terminal - so that is on the low priority replace list along with a new set of wiper blades.
 
If the battery is the original I would be changing it sooner rather than later, The last thing I’d want is the battery letting me down on a cold frosty morning or at night miles from home.
 
Noted - thanks. I'm not overly concerned, it still cranks enthusiastically and I've had no unexpained error messages pop up as yet - we've also had a good few frosts already which is usually what kills an ailing battery after the summer. I'll have a look around and see what is available - also need to read up on this battery registration I've seen mentioned on the forums.
 
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