My little project Z4 2.0 Sport..
- Thread starter Ducklakeview
- Start date
Any idea what the marks on the hood are? I have a few that look exactly like that and no idea how to get shot of them.
scooobydont said:
Rubbing marks where the material rubs against itself when folded. I have a couple on the 3.0 too. Dying prob won't get rid, as the actual fibre of the material is changed slightly.
Mike
Eddy Matthews said:
CDV removal really has made a massive difference to the drive. Just done a spirited 40 mile round trip to a cash & carry, and it's a different, better car altogether.
Just use a plank of 1" plywood about 5" wide and 18" long. knock a couple of nails through one end and place that end onto the 2nd rung of your ramps. Car will then go up them. I use these, when I CBA putting stuff on the lift, had dozens of Zeds up on them front rear - £12 from Ebay, called "Ramp Mate's"..
Mike
As it was annoying me last night, I decided to have a quick look at why the driver's door would lock from the remote, but not unlock..
I could hear the central locking motor activating in the door when pressing unlock, so decided (at 11pm) to whip the door card off and take a quick peek.
Door membrane still as it left the factory, so no one had been in there previously. Moved the door catch into the closed position and gave it a try on the remote - NOW it was working.. At this point the door button was hanging down, as it does when the door card is removed. So I held it upright in it's "normal" position and operated the remote again, this time it locked, but DIDN'T unlock.. Hmm... Noticed there was a square rubber bung stuck on the door panel, just near the bottom of the rod with the pin on top, I presume to stop rattling. However, I could see that the bung had moved as it had left a "trail" of adhesive... As such, it was resting against the rod then the lock was in the closed position..
I pulled it off and the rod dropped a touch, into the "fully locked" position, quick tap on the remote and it unlocked perfectly.
What was happening, is that the bung was stopping the rod from reaching the fully locked position, and as such when unlocking, the motor wasn't activating as it was "midway" between it's states, if that makes sense.
So, bung repositioned with new trim tape, after cleaning off old adhesive, and door back together and working perfectly.
I do like a cheap and free fix, one more thing crossed off the list..
Mike
I could hear the central locking motor activating in the door when pressing unlock, so decided (at 11pm) to whip the door card off and take a quick peek.
Door membrane still as it left the factory, so no one had been in there previously. Moved the door catch into the closed position and gave it a try on the remote - NOW it was working.. At this point the door button was hanging down, as it does when the door card is removed. So I held it upright in it's "normal" position and operated the remote again, this time it locked, but DIDN'T unlock.. Hmm... Noticed there was a square rubber bung stuck on the door panel, just near the bottom of the rod with the pin on top, I presume to stop rattling. However, I could see that the bung had moved as it had left a "trail" of adhesive... As such, it was resting against the rod then the lock was in the closed position..
I pulled it off and the rod dropped a touch, into the "fully locked" position, quick tap on the remote and it unlocked perfectly.
What was happening, is that the bung was stopping the rod from reaching the fully locked position, and as such when unlocking, the motor wasn't activating as it was "midway" between it's states, if that makes sense.
So, bung repositioned with new trim tape, after cleaning off old adhesive, and door back together and working perfectly.
I do like a cheap and free fix, one more thing crossed off the list..
Mike
kis said:Nice little project. Like Jamie said it's annoying how easy you make it look!!
Interesting comment about it feeling much better than the M54. I thought I've seen posts where you've renewed most parts? Bushes and the like? Why do you think it feels noticeably better?
Look forward to more updates!
I think it's down to the weight, mine is a 3.0 auto, so prob a good couple hundred kilos heavier. Plus, I reckon they have changed the spring/damper rates on the facelift...
It's only the "ride" that feels better, the drivetrain on the M54 is miles better, and as for levels of grip/traction, they are chalk and cheese, esp with mine having the LSD. It has surprised me however, just how easy it is to spin the rears on the 2.0.
Mike
enzed4 said:Something to get your teeth into, Mike. Looking good so far. I don't see any plans for those notoriously difficult to refurb split rims. What are you hoping to do with them - refurb or replace?
Edit - also, have never seen half-leather M Sport seats, didn't know they were an option.
Just milling over the options on the 108's now. They aren't the worst I've seem, BUT I want the car to be right, and I think having them split and re-done in OEM colours is the way to go, and also removes potential "haggling room" once I decide to sell it. I always think a "fully" sorted car, in need of nothing and backed up with lots of history, and even a page like this will sell well.
I'll have the tyres removed and split them myself before getting them dipped/repaired and powdercoated.
Mike
Great thread Mike,
One thing I have decided after driving this 2.0, is that my 3.0 IS suffering from the "sticky steering" issue... Never really bothered me before, just thought that "they were all like that" BUT after driving the 2.0 for a few days, the steering on it is much smoother and less "fidgety" than the 3.0..
So, one more job to do on mine, and I'll be taking the "adjusting the motor" route, rather than the "drill and lube" one..
Mike
So, one more job to do on mine, and I'll be taking the "adjusting the motor" route, rather than the "drill and lube" one..
Mike
Ducklakeview said:
Not sure if you’ve done this mod or not Mike so excuse me if I’m teaching grandma how to suck eggs.
The two torx bolts for the concentric ring are North South, on your back in the footwell with the covers off from the under the steering motor, South is easy to get to but north is a bitch. I found, after much, much trying that a 1/4” drive with a 6” extension bar and UJ fits perfectly. However you need to get the extension bar over the motor mounting plate, it won’t go in any other way, so go downwards towards the pedals until you clear the plate, then slide the extension over the column, you’ll drop it a few times....and swear a few times.... :lol: line it up with the torx bolt, then add the ratchet. It’s easy like this, but IIRC only a 6” extension will fit, either way from 6” you’ll hit the column or bulkhead and not get near the bolt.
Have fun, it’s a pain being on your back with the seat in the way, much easier with the seat out if you’re not pressed for time.
john-e89 said:Ducklakeview said:
Not sure if you’ve done this mod or not Mike so excuse me if I’m teaching grandma how to suck eggs.
The two torx bolts for the concentric ring are North South, on your back in the footwell with the covers off from the under the steering motor, South is easy to get to but north is a bitch. I found, after much, much trying that a 1/4” drive with a 6” extension bar and UJ fits perfectly. However you need to get the extension bar over the motor mounting plate, it won’t go in any other way, so go downwards towards the pedals until you clear the plate, then slide the extension over the column, you’ll drop it a few times....and swear a few times.... :lol: line it up with the torx bolt, then add the ratchet. It’s easy like this, but IIRC only a 6” extension will fit, either way from 6” you’ll hit the column or bulkhead and not get near the bolt.
Have fun, it’s a pain being on your back with the seat in the way, much easier with the seat out if you’re not pressed for time.
Cheers John!
Can you remember which way to turn the ring to "loosen" the gears up a little?
Mike
john-e89 said:
I actually put it down to the EPAS being "like that" until I drove this 2.0
Mike
Ducklakeview said:john-e89 said:Ducklakeview said:
Not sure if you’ve done this mod or not Mike so excuse me if I’m teaching grandma how to suck eggs.
The two torx bolts for the concentric ring are North South, on your back in the footwell with the covers off from the under the steering motor, South is easy to get to but north is a bitch. I found, after much, much trying that a 1/4” drive with a 6” extension bar and UJ fits perfectly. However you need to get the extension bar over the motor mounting plate, it won’t go in any other way, so go downwards towards the pedals until you clear the plate, then slide the extension over the column, you’ll drop it a few times....and swear a few times.... :lol: line it up with the torx bolt, then add the ratchet. It’s easy like this, but IIRC only a 6” extension will fit, either way from 6” you’ll hit the column or bulkhead and not get near the bolt.
Have fun, it’s a pain being on your back with the seat in the way, much easier with the seat out if you’re not pressed for time.
Cheers John!
Can you remember which way to turn the ring to "loosen" the gears up a little?
Mike
Scratch a marker between the ring and the motor housing Mike, then you’ll know where the ring sits from the factory. It’ll only turn approx 10mm clockwise IIRC, but approx 3/4 way round anti clockwise. Turn it clockwise, you only need approx 3mm, any more it’ll be too loose, but it’s a bit trial and error, I’ve heard people turning them 10-15mm but that’s extreme I think, try 3mm and go for a run. I think it’s the crown and pinion gears tightening as they get warm from the foot heater, mine was very bad, but only after about an hour with the blower on. Let us know how you get on Ok.
Rusky said:Mike's Zed Shed
Cheers Russ..
Mike
john-e89 said:Ducklakeview said:john-e89 said:Not sure if you’ve done this mod or not Mike so excuse me if I’m teaching grandma how to suck eggs.
The two torx bolts for the concentric ring are North South, on your back in the footwell with the covers off from the under the steering motor, South is easy to get to but north is a bitch. I found, after much, much trying that a 1/4” drive with a 6” extension bar and UJ fits perfectly. However you need to get the extension bar over the motor mounting plate, it won’t go in any other way, so go downwards towards the pedals until you clear the plate, then slide the extension over the column, you’ll drop it a few times....and swear a few times.... :lol: line it up with the torx bolt, then add the ratchet. It’s easy like this, but IIRC only a 6” extension will fit, either way from 6” you’ll hit the column or bulkhead and not get near the bolt.
Have fun, it’s a pain being on your back with the seat in the way, much easier with the seat out if you’re not pressed for time.
Cheers John!
Can you remember which way to turn the ring to "loosen" the gears up a little?
Mike
Scratch a marker between the ring and the motor housing Mike, then you’ll know where the ring sits from the factory. It’ll only turn approx 10mm clockwise IIRC, but approx 3/4 way round anti clockwise. Turn it clockwise, you only need approx 3mm, any more it’ll be too loose, but it’s a bit trial and error, I’ve heard people turning them 10-15mm but that’s extreme I think, try 3mm and go for a run. I think it’s the crown and pinion gears tightening as they get warm from the foot heater, mine was very bad, but only after about an hour with the blower on. Let us know how you get on Ok.
I already had tried the drill and grease method but moving the ring is the cure in my book. As John says it's trial and error. I tried 5mm at first on mine but it wasn't enough and so I went a bit more around 8-9mm. You can see which way to move it from the scratches on mine below:
earthdweller
Senior member
Great thread .. cracking read