.
Meds 3.0si Coupe - Rear brake upgrade in progress.
- Thread starter Meds
- Start date
Meds said:
I got mine painted over but now wish that I had the space filled and painted .The guy that did the paint spraying on the rest of the car however at the time advised me not to do it as quite often hairline cracks appear but I`m not so sure now with the excellent fillers that are available .
Fred Smith said:
Yes, I prefer the fog lights. I've cleaned them and drilled holes in the bottom to hopefully stop them fogging up.
1536Z4 said:
Interesting, ill keep that in mind... I'll go with painting first as it's an easy option for me as I'm having some other bits painted at the same time.
The smooth look with no join lines would look very nice, tbh.
North West Surrey
STC_Zed said:
yeah, wheel off, loosen the inner arch liner, bend/push it back, get a 10mm socket in there.
Or get behind the access panels in the arch liner. A mixture of the both methods will sort them.
They're a self tapping nut on a plastic prong, 2 per side. Exact same as front BMW badge.
I used double-sided foam tape to put them back in, but once I'm next in that area, I'll put the nuts back.
The last few weeks have seen very slow progress with rust proofing the nearside.
Last month I replaced the offside rear arch and treated the length of the sill seam and also inside the front arch, it was time to tackle the nearside.
I have no visible bubbling but I wanted to get under there to see what was lurking.
I wasn't planning to remove any arches, just inspect and treat what I can see.
I was expecting the nearside to be much worse, as are most cars due to more puddles and dirt on the gutter side of the road.
The inside of the panels were in excellent condition.. Far better than the offside. Quite surprising, really.
Inside the rear arch, where it meets the sill cover, does have some very minor blistering but nothing like the other side did before I replaced it.
The sill seam was a little crusty, but really nothing to worry about.
Day 1 was removecall trims, scrub and scratch away any loose crusty bits. Then apply Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to the inner arch lips and as far along I could reach along the bottom of the arches where they join the sill cover and bumpers.
Also the length of the sill seam.
Hydrate 80 converts existing rust and forms a hard barrier over the top, ready for paint or underseal.
Day 3 was rattle can primer but painted on with a brush.
Day 4 was rattle can clear coat but brushed on.
Day 5 was black underseal, painted on. This sets hard after day or so.
Day 6 was reassemble the arch liners and sill panel.
That's now both sides treated, along with a new rear nearside arch (that I also undersealed)
By no means a professional job (apart from painting the new rear arch) but much care was taken with preparation and application so I'd like to hope I've held back any corrosion for a good few years to come.
The sheer number of brands and products is overwhelming, also the process, what's wrong, what's right. It was a nightmare trying to find the correct option.
I just went simple and got a converter which also forms a barrier, that can then be covered (although apparently its optional) with paint/underseal.
Last month I replaced the offside rear arch and treated the length of the sill seam and also inside the front arch, it was time to tackle the nearside.
I have no visible bubbling but I wanted to get under there to see what was lurking.
I wasn't planning to remove any arches, just inspect and treat what I can see.
I was expecting the nearside to be much worse, as are most cars due to more puddles and dirt on the gutter side of the road.
The inside of the panels were in excellent condition.. Far better than the offside. Quite surprising, really.
Inside the rear arch, where it meets the sill cover, does have some very minor blistering but nothing like the other side did before I replaced it.
The sill seam was a little crusty, but really nothing to worry about.
Day 1 was removecall trims, scrub and scratch away any loose crusty bits. Then apply Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 to the inner arch lips and as far along I could reach along the bottom of the arches where they join the sill cover and bumpers.
Also the length of the sill seam.
Hydrate 80 converts existing rust and forms a hard barrier over the top, ready for paint or underseal.
Day 3 was rattle can primer but painted on with a brush.
Day 4 was rattle can clear coat but brushed on.
Day 5 was black underseal, painted on. This sets hard after day or so.
Day 6 was reassemble the arch liners and sill panel.
That's now both sides treated, along with a new rear nearside arch (that I also undersealed)
By no means a professional job (apart from painting the new rear arch) but much care was taken with preparation and application so I'd like to hope I've held back any corrosion for a good few years to come.
The sheer number of brands and products is overwhelming, also the process, what's wrong, what's right. It was a nightmare trying to find the correct option.
I just went simple and got a converter which also forms a barrier, that can then be covered (although apparently its optional) with paint/underseal.