M brake ducts

C

cragswinter

Member
Are they easy to remove? One of mine is a little loose so looks like it needs refitting-easy job or is it a bumper off?

Also I noticed that half the brake duct is closed up with a removable flap-do people open these up for track work?
 
mine are fully open??? and have never been opened up??

to alight them properly its a bumper off job.... they have little metal brackets.
 
Beedub said:
mine are fully open??? and have never been opened up??

to alight them properly its a bumper off job.... they have little metal brackets.
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I'm sure I've had mine out and back in with the bumper on I'm sure. There is a hatch in the wheel arch you can adjust them with or you undo some of the wheel arch clips.
 
daz05 said:
Beedub said:
mine are fully open??? and have never been opened up??

to alight them properly its a bumper off job.... they have little metal brackets.
Click to expand...


I'm sure I've had mine out and back in with the bumper on I'm sure. There is a hatch in the wheel arch you can adjust them with or you undo some of the wheel arch clips.
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:thumbsup: cheers lads, I'll have a look when I get a spare half hour & try & get some pictures up. It's not bad enough to warrenty taking the bumper off but if it's just taking the wheel arch liner out I'll have a go at it.

Mine have ducts to the wheel arch that are dammed half way up & held in place by two screws-definatly factory.

I'm just always aware that more air in isn't necessarily always best with re to wheel arch aero & lift
 
Mine were half-closed from new, but they're only held in with plastic 'rivets' that were easy to drill out.
 
mmm-five said:
Mine were half-closed from new, but they're only held in with plastic 'rivets' that were easy to drill out.
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Interesting - I thought that was a US-only feature. I drilled mine out as well, seems to help a bit on the track.
 
daz05 said:
Beedub said:
mine are fully open??? and have never been opened up??

to alight them properly its a bumper off job.... they have little metal brackets.
Click to expand...


I'm sure I've had mine out and back in with the bumper on I'm sure. There is a hatch in the wheel arch you can adjust them with or you undo some of the wheel arch clips.
Click to expand...

Yeah ther is, i couldnt adjust mine properly from the wheel well.....

Also just checked mine definatly doesnt have them half blanked, they are open wholes??? For example if u look from the rear so the wheel arch section its just an open whole......




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The so-called "brake ducts" are actually part of the air intake system and help to increase the pressure of air in the intake with increase in speed. If you remove the blanking plates you'll lose engine power.
 
exdos said:
The so-called "brake ducts" are actually part of the air intake system and help to increase the pressure of air in the intake with increase in speed. If you remove the blanking plates you'll lose engine power.
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Mwahahaha... Are you for real? Damn, I could have hit 171mph indicated instead of 170 when I wound my car up on a number of occaisions...

Craigswinter, take the plugs out - it certainly helps on track...
 
I am indeed for real. I've done loads of datalogging and air pressure testing with my S54 Z3 M Coupe which has essentially the same air-intake system as the Z4M, and with various judicious mods to the air-intake system the Volumetric Efficiency can be increased which translates into improved engine power. For example the Z3 MC has open brake ducts and fitting blanking plates to the N/S duct increases VE, likewise, fitting aftermarket front splitters additionally increasess VE. This does translate into performance improvement. If you want proper brake ducting fit some auxiliary ducts which feed air directly to the hubs.
 
exdos said:
I am indeed for real. I've done loads of datalogging and air pressure testing with my S54 Z3 M Coupe which has essentially the same air-intake system as the Z4M, and with various judicious mods to the air-intake system the Volumetric Efficiency can be increased which translates into improved engine power. For example the Z3 MC has open brake ducts and fitting blanking plates to the N/S duct increases VE, likewise, fitting aftermarket front splitters additionally increasess VE. This does translate into performance improvement. If you want proper brake ducting fit some auxiliary ducts which feed air directly to the hubs.
Click to expand...
Well, to be honest as I said before I did wonder about this as the air duct spills directly onto the front side of the tyre, not the rear of the hub where you'd expect it to be if it was for brake cooling.

However I think it would be more for the reasons I stated above ie for pressure in the wheel arch (& reducing lift) than for anything to do with induction-it simply doesn't get it's air from there in the z4m?
 
cragswinter said:
it simply doesn't get it's air from there in the z4m?
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Is there not a snorkel at the top of the inside of the N/S brake duct (Part 18 in the first diagram) which leads to the inlet of the air intake system somewhere in the region of Part 13 in the second diagram?

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MTUxMzY4X3A=.png
 
Well I bought the M front bumper and brake ducts from BMW and they dont come with a feed to the air intake.
 
Just went out to mine and stuck my hand in there (feel like I've violated the poor thing :P ) Anyway on the upper section of the ducts there is a grill, so looks like air is designed to go through there? Its on both sides though?
 
Looking back at the diagram, the duct on part 18 isn't there. But further forward you can see a grill, its those I have seen on mine
 
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