Avityesboy
Member
Latest easy peasy and relatively cheap mod done…I didn’t want to go for the twin cones as they just don’t look like they’d not draw in too much warmer air tbh..
K&N Panel filter
- Thread starter Avityesboy
- Start date
Scottish Borders
flybobbie said:
Need to read all the filter tests…shite filtration, clogs faster than a stock filter..when I was pup they were the go to..every dog has its day..
On an E89 stock box and filter good for over 400 BHP before there are issues..
Facts not opinions
Avityesboy
Member
B21 said:
I’ll settle for 390bhp as long as I can see that purple beauty on the entrance side of things that’ll do me…
I could goggle the hell outta my life and end up thinking negative so just don’t bother
flybobbie said:
Well we did over 50 dyno runs on both the N20 and N54…there was negligible effects on performance in any respect using a K+N panel filter ..DCIs do have a mid range torque effect on the N54 as there are interference effects that happen in the airbox with two seperate induction parts..but losing 10nm in 500nm for a few hundred rpm in the mid range is no issue..
The Jeep guys moved back to stock air boxes and factory filters after all the tests started to come out showing how bad gauze based filters are..
Each to their own..
Avityesboy said:B21 said:
I’ll settle for 390bhp as long as I can see that purple beauty on the entrance side of things that’ll do me…
I could goggle the hell outta my life and end up thinking negative so just don’t bother
Your prerogative obviously..
More aimed at readers who may want to consider the long term damage these filters cause..
SV8Predator
Member
B21 said:
Was this "oil sampling" part of your exhaustive "50 dyno run" evaluation, or was it more exhaustive Googling?
Facts not opinions.
This debates been going since the dawn of the internet I swear :lol:
Go for whichever you fancy OP, life's too short.
Factually for my point of view, I've had a Gruppe M fitted for.....maybe 8 or 9 years now, which comes with a K&N cone, can't be changed. Only issue I have is the tedious cleaning and oiling every so often (maybe once every few years), never given me any issues and the MAF has never been covered in oil or the such.
Still I don't care either way, plenty of other things will fail well before a filter *could* causes any damage I'm sure. Having said that I'd probably not bother replacing a panel filter with one as I'd be surprised if it gives any benefits over OE but to each their own
Go for whichever you fancy OP, life's too short.
Factually for my point of view, I've had a Gruppe M fitted for.....maybe 8 or 9 years now, which comes with a K&N cone, can't be changed. Only issue I have is the tedious cleaning and oiling every so often (maybe once every few years), never given me any issues and the MAF has never been covered in oil or the such.
Still I don't care either way, plenty of other things will fail well before a filter *could* causes any damage I'm sure. Having said that I'd probably not bother replacing a panel filter with one as I'd be surprised if it gives any benefits over OE but to each their own
Avityesboy
Member
After all these years K&N have been found out…
I have no problems with my cars K and N.
Wash every 6 months, make a mix of petrol and oil and re-soak to leave a light film.
Don't over oil. Never seen any oil on the maf sensor.
On the N52 the filter is vertical so might be some benefit of paper as any larger dust particles can fall of vertically. Not so it seems the N54.
I keep an eye out for any flock deterioration which there hasn't been.
I noticed these internet test filters had quite chunky folds.
The Bosch i tried had very tight folds, so felt like there was lots of drag on acceleration.
Still going back to KN felt better, so i stayed with it.
Wash every 6 months, make a mix of petrol and oil and re-soak to leave a light film.
Don't over oil. Never seen any oil on the maf sensor.
On the N52 the filter is vertical so might be some benefit of paper as any larger dust particles can fall of vertically. Not so it seems the N54.
I keep an eye out for any flock deterioration which there hasn't been.
I noticed these internet test filters had quite chunky folds.
The Bosch i tried had very tight folds, so felt like there was lots of drag on acceleration.
Still going back to KN felt better, so i stayed with it.
Was another reason, years ago drove through a flood.
Narrow country lane, didn't look deep but as i passed created a bow wave than bounced up a wall came back twice the amplitude, splashed straight up air intake soaking the paper filter. In fact an Audi driver overtook me and drove straight through, no problem.
I later removed the connecting pipe to above radiator air intake, also drill half inch hole in bottom of air box.
Now get some intake noise, but K and N is water proof.
Narrow country lane, didn't look deep but as i passed created a bow wave than bounced up a wall came back twice the amplitude, splashed straight up air intake soaking the paper filter. In fact an Audi driver overtook me and drove straight through, no problem.
I later removed the connecting pipe to above radiator air intake, also drill half inch hole in bottom of air box.
Now get some intake noise, but K and N is water proof.
john-e89 said:
If you want a serious answer to a valid question..
For long term engine life in such a scenario there are three interacting variables..air filtration and oil quality and frequency of changes..
As air is ingested the dirt in the air which is in the main cause of silicon in the oil is absorbed by the oil and carried as an abrasive through the bearings and across various surfaces…this increases wear levels on these surfaces which then reflect on increased metal readings in the oil samples..
If you change the oil more frequently it’s one way to purge the system of harmful materials..
Reference a 500 BHP turbo charged N54…the primary issue is protecting the piston crown and lands from the increased combustion pressures caused by more boost.
Oil quality is the primary governing factor..if you lug the engine ..which I don’t, then low speed pre ignition is a serious risk..this can lead to rapid land / piston crown failure..
This phenomenon was recognised a while back and now oils that meet API-SN+ or SP are reformulated to reduce calcium additives which were found to be instrumental in this phenomena.
I use a high ester content group 4 PAO oil in 5W-40 (Fuchs Pro Race) that meets API-SN which I change every 5k miles..plus I never apply serious boost until oil gets past 80c..
So I’m hoping that this engine will run to at least 200k…with fresh paper filters and good quality frequently changed oil.
Of course the ridiculous oil change intervals the car had in its early days can’t help..but it had decent filters..
I hope that helps?
