Is this replaceable

pvr

Dutch
 Ruler of the South East UK
Whilst replacing the abs sensor I was having a look at the rust on that side.

Would the whole lot need replacing or are those rusty bits separately replaceable?

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Before you decide to replace anything, get to it with a proper wire brush. After you’ve flaked off the barnacles it might not look too bad underneath, then you can treat it. I don’t imagine that knuckle is easy to get hold of.
 
I bought all the treatment stuff (por15) so am ready for having a go, but wasn’t sure if a replacement was preferred
 
I've looked at Jags with less corrosion! :poke:

As Zedebee says, I would get a mini wire brush in there and see what the state is underneath all the crustiness. If it was dangerously corroded it would have been picked up on the last MOT (you would hope). :thumbsup:
 
They’re pretty easy to get hold off. I’ve picked up a set for my Zed. Same part as many of the e46 range as well. Just have a quick search for e46 hub / knuckle. BMW call it a king pin, but rarely seen them advertised as that.

Going to give it a good clean and go por route as well. I’m completely stripping mine. So can put a new shield and bearing on as well. Just sort it all once - so it’ll last another 20+ years.
 
Hub is easy to swap with the only dodgy bit being the knuckle bolt that clamps the strut. They seize up.
The tie rods would be better replaced, both inner and outer as it’s an easy and fairly cheap job and who knows what state the ball joint is in.
 
An electric drill with a wire brush is very good at removing rust but watch out for the rubber bits. I would inspect both the brake pipes and ends of the hoses, both common advisories on MOT. Pull the strut cover down and check under the mount. I wonder what horrors await on the rear end. Already I have seen warnings about rust on the rear subframes on early Z4s. Looks like you will be spending a lot of time on your back grinding away!
 
I bought the drill brush attachments and they worked well when replacing the wheels and cleaning the hubs so they look fine now. The only items on the MOT advisory are on the rear, being rust on the sub frame but not seriously weakened by it.

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Weather is good so more of the above on the quickjack 8)
 
enuff_zed said:
Hub is easy to swap with the only dodgy bit being the knuckle bolt that clamps the strut. They seize up.
The tie rods would be better replaced, both inner and outer as it’s an easy and fairly cheap job and who knows what state the ball joint is in.

If I can’t resurrect it, I will go that way. Just need to find the parts as list price they seem about £250 a side which is very steep so have to find alternatives. Guess a full alignment will be required after that.
 
Which parts?
Probably easiest to get a secondhand pair of hubs from someone and do them up.
Depending on make you should be able to get tie rods cheaper.
Definitely need an alignment too.
 
It is listed as king pin, but have not looked at eBay or anything like that to see if there are cheaper versions of that
 
pvr said:
It is listed as king pin, but have not looked at eBay or anything like that to see if there are cheaper versions of that
[ref]chengy[/ref], I think he means the lower 'wishbone'. Didn't you just buy a pair of Meyle ones from ECP.
[ref]pvr[/ref], that lower wishbone doesn't look corroded to me from your photo?
However, if you're changing the rest..................... obviously consider doing the lollipop at the same time unless they are relatively new.
 
pvr said:
I bought the drill brush attachments and they worked well when replacing the wheels and cleaning the hubs so they look fine now. The only items on the MOT advisory are on the rear, being rust on the sub frame but not seriously weakened by it.

CA17477D-317C-4C06-9A67-2A575988F8AE.jpeg

Weather is good so more of the above on the quickjack 8)


Hiya, hope you don’t mind me asking - would you recommend the quickjack? Which model is it? (Presume it’s the 3500) Also do the lift blocks line up with the jacking points?

Thanks
 
It is a 7000 TL, 3500 kg lift capacity.

You put the blocks where you want, you have two times 50 cm areas where you can put the blocks so fit most cars

Got mine at Costco for £1450 inc vat compared to 1800 ex vat on the resellers website.

It is lovely to work with, 30 seconds each side to align and the car is in the air within a couple of minutes after getting the units out of the garage
 
Brill and on that recommendation I’ve just pulled the trigger and ordered one from Costco given they’ve got an offer on them till Sunday, happy days and thanks!
 
Remember to order the hydraulic fluid as it doesn’t come with it.

You won’t regret it. Easy to move about with the wheels on them as well
 
Thanks for the heads up, I did see that it didn’t come with the hydraulic oil. Any idea if it’s specific oil or typical off the shelf stuff?
Ps I see that you like your old VW Golf’s. Ironically I sold my old mk2 GTI to buy my Z4MC. Prior to that I had a mk1 GTi for 15 years, just awesome cars.
 

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I bought this one:

Hydraulic Oil ISO 46 HLP 46 5 Litres 5L https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077Y9YRGF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_NfHelqUBHSrSx

You use just over 2 litres of it.

Love the Golfs yes, had a MK2 when I was 19 and never been without one since then. The last MK2 was a 16V from 1990, loved that one and regretted selling it.
 
Very nice and if I’m not mistaken that’s a very late mk1 cab before the mk3 cab was launched.
Thanks for the link for the oil too
 
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