My car is an '06 MZ4 that I bought CPO in the U.S. a few months ago. Yesterday while putting the top down it made a noise and when I put it back up I realized that the center, rear part of the fabric had caught on the metal locking clip that the top latches too in the down position. It ripped a 3" long tear on the inside surface of the top. Looking at the top, it looks like it had previously torn in that same spot and been sewn back together. When the top is up, I can see the metal latch through the rear window. Two of my collegues at work have '08 Z4 3.0si convertibles and neither have the exposed metal latch. Is this something that was changed between '06 and '08? Is there any way to solve for this happening in the future? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Internal Convertible Roof Tear
- Thread starter mdashi
- Start date
They removed the latch as part of the 2006 facelift changes because there were many issues with the latch not latching. It's also redundant because hydraulic pressure can more or less hold the top in place when down.
You might examine the latch for any unusual sharp edge or corner that may snag the fabric that could be rounded off without affecting the operation. Just the fact it was repaired probably makes it more prone to snagging.
You might examine the latch for any unusual sharp edge or corner that may snag the fabric that could be rounded off without affecting the operation. Just the fact it was repaired probably makes it more prone to snagging.
GOOD NEWS!!!
I finally got around to looking into this. (IE. the weather finally cooled off enough in Texas to be in the garage). YES, the part can be removed with no consequences. It took me about an hour to figure out how all of the plastic panels in the rear came apart, but it was about 6-8 screws and the plastic shroud around the rear glove box slides up and out of the way and exposes the mounting screws for the top latch mechanism. Two screws later and the whole part comes out. Top opens and closes just fine, no warning lights or issues, and the top how has nothing to snag on. Now I just have to get the inside of the top resewn from where the latch snagged it.
-Matt
I finally got around to looking into this. (IE. the weather finally cooled off enough in Texas to be in the garage). YES, the part can be removed with no consequences. It took me about an hour to figure out how all of the plastic panels in the rear came apart, but it was about 6-8 screws and the plastic shroud around the rear glove box slides up and out of the way and exposes the mounting screws for the top latch mechanism. Two screws later and the whole part comes out. Top opens and closes just fine, no warning lights or issues, and the top how has nothing to snag on. Now I just have to get the inside of the top resewn from where the latch snagged it.
-Matt
My roof lining is marking too - I still have the latch between the hoops, must be because it is an early 2006 build. Think I will have a crack at removing it this weekend - does anyone know if there is a guide to removing the plastics in between the seats and roll hoops to get at the latch fixings ? Sure I saw one when trying to figure out a squeak, but no idea where I saw it...
I've had the centre bit out that has the release buttons. No idea about the rest.
Open the cubby door to access 2 lower expansion rivets. Back out centre plastic screws about 1 cm to un-expand rivets. The screws have an odd size recessed square drive. I was able to use a normal #2 crosshead screwdriver. Once un-expanded, the rivets can be pulled straight out by hand. To release upper hooks, push panel towards the rear, then lift upwards. You are attempting to free two short forward facing plastic hooks on long downward running prongs. That's all for that bit.
It's a start at least.
Open the cubby door to access 2 lower expansion rivets. Back out centre plastic screws about 1 cm to un-expand rivets. The screws have an odd size recessed square drive. I was able to use a normal #2 crosshead screwdriver. Once un-expanded, the rivets can be pulled straight out by hand. To release upper hooks, push panel towards the rear, then lift upwards. You are attempting to free two short forward facing plastic hooks on long downward running prongs. That's all for that bit.
It's a start at least.
Yup. On Sunday, took pics which I will post. Turned out a bit like my DISA investigations though - I still have the latch as others on early facelift cars do, but mine actually still latches to the hood when it goes down... So as a Feb 2006 build that revision must not have made it in by then. So having taken all the bits off, I felt I needed to leave it all in place because with the latch pushed down the hood moves quite easily...
Some positives though :
I will stick some pics up of the bits you need to pay attention to when taking the trim off,
I have decided some felt carefully wrapped round the metal catch will stop a tear, if not the rubbing on the liner, and
Whilst I was in there I did a couple of things that seem to have cured a really annoying squeak I had - with just an inch of double-sided number plate tape and some bending
May take me a wee while to get the pics up is all.
Some positives though :
I will stick some pics up of the bits you need to pay attention to when taking the trim off,
I have decided some felt carefully wrapped round the metal catch will stop a tear, if not the rubbing on the liner, and
Whilst I was in there I did a couple of things that seem to have cured a really annoying squeak I had - with just an inch of double-sided number plate tape and some bending
May take me a wee while to get the pics up is all.
