Okay, finally got round to sorting the pics I took when investigating this – sorry it took so long, but if you’re going to do a job then do it right, right ?
So this is the evil I wanted to banish, the marks being caused by the latch for my roof :
This is the latch... You can see how the plastic coating on the metal has come off over time and left some jagged edges. And the metal is not so smooth either – the hood rubs on this every time it goes up and down, and as others have said, eventually it can wear through the fabric. You can see the fraying in the pics above.
In order to get to the latch itself, you need to remove the rear centre console cover :
Open your cubby, scrunch down and peer upwards – you will be rewarded by this view :
You need to undo the two circled plastic expanding rivets with a normal Philips screw driver (I used a stubby one, felt appropriate). Unscrew them some of the way, give a wiggle, unscrew further if they don’t come loose and try again. Reason for this – if you are cack-handed like me you’ll unscrew it all the way, the screw will come out of the rivet and you’ll lose it somewhere in teh car or the bottom of the cubby.
Once you have pulled these out you want to grasp the bottom of the cubby, and pull outwards while gently pushing upwards. This will release the first two clips holding it on. You then need to lift it up so you can see the following view (it is very flexible, won’t break) :
The red arrow shows one of the second set of clips, one either side – I used a long flat head screw driver to push each of these back to release them. At this point there are two more clips right at the back of the trim that had me foxed. The next photo of the trim removed shows these at the top in the orange squares :
To be honest I just wiggled it gently and flexed the trim next to the latch a bit till they released. The other catches you have released are shown in red circles and blue squares.
This is the manual unlatch mechanism, operated by pushing the handle in the trim you have removed, which in turn pushes on the green circled ‘tongue’. This in turn pushes a mechanism at (and in the direction of) the arrow that unlatches the roof :
The catch on the roof is circled below :
At this point, if you are removing the latch you need to start taking out the screws shown in the pic of the tongue – I did not attempt this, reason below...
Worth saying that if your roof motor is buggered but the electrics that unlatch it from the front still work, you don’t really need to use this – you just press the close button for a bit, get out and lift the roof, as the electrics unlatch it for you. I think the latch mechanism is missing from later facelift builds going on what I have read on here. My dilemma was that it is still present on mine, and the roof moves quite easily when unlatched... so I decided if it ain’t broke then I shan’t try and fix it. Instead I will get some felt and try and cover the latch so that the rubbing is fabric on fabric, thereby preventing it actually cutting through the hood lining.
However, whilst I was in there, I determined to try and fix a squeak that has irritated me for ages when the roof is down, and I know can be fixed whilst this is off. Kind of like a random high pitched mouse in your ear which can only be banished by burying the loud pedal and turning the music up... which is fine, but sometimes I want wind and engine roar in their pure form :-D
So let’s go back to this picture :
A number of things collude to produce this squeak, but the main ones are the three plastic vanes that are circled in purple. These press on the tongue of the latch mechanism above to release the catch - you can see corresponding wear on each part, quite a lot actually for a mechanism that really is never used. Which indicates that it moves a little, rubbing enough to make a noise when the roof is down, latched and putting pressure on the mechanism. Other things like the edges of the handle itself rubbing may also contribute to the squeak. However the solution seems to be to stop the movement & mute any sound so I did two things :
1. I took the springs for the handle off (indicated by the green arrows) – they were almost flat, not putting a huge amount of pressure on the door to hold it closed. I guess this happens over time as they stay in the same position, so I bent them into more of a ‘v’ such that when re-inserted they exerted more pressure.
2. I put a couple of pieces of double-sided number plate tape on the tongue where I could see rubbing. Some on here have used felt, but I didn’t have any. Logic is, extra padding will increase pressure on the back of the handle, helping to prevent movement along with the extra spring pressure ; also, when the trim is back on the handle will stick to the tape, I don’t use it so it should stay in place ; finally, there is no plastic on plastic, so in theory there should be no squeak...
Putting everything back together is the reverse of the above, just be gentle getting the first two pressure clips in at the top – you’ll need to grasp the back of the trim on the left and right of the latch and gently pull it away from the latch a couple of millimetres to be able to push them in ; then just push the others in until they snap into place and put the expanding screw rivets back in.
I haven’t had the roof down a huge amount since I did all this, but I have been out for a couple of long drives and over uneven road surfaces... and the squeak has (so far) been conspicuous by its absence, which is a result. Just need to sort the felt on the latch mechanism such that it sticks and doesn’t come off in a few weeks
